Wood shims fancy up this headboard! Free DIY bed plans (king) from Ana-White.com
1 - sheet 3/4" plywood (full 4x8 sheet, hardwood preferred)
2 - 4x4 posts, 8 feet long each
4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
Approximately 13-15 packs wood shims (for headboard)
4 - 1x3 @ 77 1/2" (panel trim boards)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 77 1/2" x 32" (headboard panel)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 77 1/2" x 16" (footboard panel)
2 - 4x4 @ 53 1/2" (headboard legs)
2 - 4x4 @ 20" (footboard legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 88 1/2" (inner siderails)
4 - 2x4 @ 74 1/2" (frame supports - for extra support, add addtional 2x4 supports)
2 - 1x12 @ 83" long (siderails - can also use 2x12s for extra support)
2 - 1x6 @ 86 1/2" long (headers)
To cut the plywood, first cut the plywood to 77 1/2" x 48". Then cut the remaining piece into a 32" and 16" wide piece.
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Attach 1x3s to the headboard panel. You can also do the same with the footboard panel.
If you are using pocket holes, drill 3/4" pocket holes along side and top edges every 6"-8" of plywood pieces for attaching legs and headers in later step prior to attaching the 1x3s.
Rebecca also added the wood shims to the headboard at this step rather than waiting until the end - it's up to you.
"I attached my shims before the side 4x4's so I could sand the sides down and make sure they were even. I suppose you could even run a circular saw along he edge to make it easy. I did not run my 4x4's through the table saw first to make them more square and a flush to the front. So there is a little disconnect between my headboard and the legs. That is a personal decision though. My husband brought it up. "
Attach legs to headboard. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can also attach the legs via long (depending on how deep you countersink) lag screws or hardware brackets on back side.
Repeat the same steps for the footboard as you did the headboard.
You'll want to make these guys somewhat removeable to get the bed in the room, so no glue here. Attach with screws at least 3" long into the legs.
Attach siderails to the sides of the bed. Again, these will need to be removeable.
Attach headers to the footboard/headboard. If you drilled pocket holes facing upward in your panels, attach with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. I recommend screws to attach headers just because they may try to come up over time. Try trim screws - they have a tiny screw head that will be much easier to hide.
Fill headboard with wood shims with glue (hot glue would be awesome here) or small nails (I'd go with 3/4").
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.