Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
bullitt453
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 13:01
Awesome!
Very cool. May modify this to a full size and use it in my son's room. Only I would paint the shims a mix of black, white, vintage gray, and orange (the colors used in his room).
Marie320
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 16:50
how can you modify to a queen
how can you modify to a queen size ?? what would be the cut list?? I love this one but don't know how to modify
ffsangel1
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 19:06
Love this plan!
Showed this plan to my daughter who is getting married soon. She loved it so much that this is what she asked me to make for her wedding gift from me. Will have to figure out how to modify to a queen, but she is so very excited. Thank You so much Ana and Rebecca for the plans.
darkjuan
Fri, 08/09/2013 - 13:42
wood shims
Ana,
i have a couple question regarding the wood shims, what is the length size?
11-7/8 or 7-7/8
and also, do you stain them before install them on the headboard or after?
In reply to wood shims by darkjuan
redhead_61
Fri, 08/09/2013 - 18:00
I used 7 7/8" shims on this
I used 7 7/8" shims on this headboard. I stained after I glued them on. You could use the hot glue glue idea Ana had and then you might want to stain before. Not sure what would be easier.
michelle_newbie
Mon, 08/12/2013 - 13:02
Type of Wood
This is a very newbie question. What type of wood is normally used on these projects? Cedar? Pine? Other?
Thank you. I LOVE this plan and LOVE this website.
elslap1
Sat, 12/28/2013 - 08:03
project order
after completing this project I have one major recommendation for the order of the project. It came out beautiful in the end but was a heck of a lot of work. I thought of a few changes that may help make the project easier and quicker. I highly recommend the headboard in this order
1. frame the headboard
2. Stain the headboard (if this is not done before placing shims than you spend an increcible amount of time trying to stain between the shims evenly vs a very easy coating before "shimming")
3. sand each shim on all sides except the back (I can't begin to tell how difficult it was to sand the tops and especially edges of each shim with the limited space due to surrounding shims) I found that the backs of the shims were particularly rough and wound have been much easier to have pre-sanded.
4. attach shims to headboard (I layed the headboard flat on the ground and attached the shims with glue, never even to use my pin nailer)
5. stain when you stain the rest of the project.
Hope this helps save some people some time!
Elliot
In reply to project order by elslap1
MsKirstenChute
Wed, 03/19/2014 - 20:12
Thanks for the Tip :)
Your advice will definitely be used when i start this project this weekend! Thanks again for the VERY helpful tip!
dgahunia
Sat, 03/15/2014 - 11:54
Strengh of the rails
Hey everyone,
to the people who have already built this bed.... how strong did you find the bed to be with the rails installed as shown in the plan... did the bed squeak... or could the rails split or crack over time because they are just being held up by screws.
Its definitely a beautiful looking bed
dmozer74
Thu, 12/24/2015 - 13:31
I realize I'm answering a
I realize I'm answering a rather old question here, and even then I'm not really answering...Next week I will build this bed and intend to add 2x4 blocks below the mounting point at the headboard and footboard for the side rails to rest on. I will also add 2x4s below the center support 2x4s at exactly 4 inches in height. That should keep the squeaks to a minimum. I'll report on the success in my brag upon completion.
efischer
Sat, 08/16/2014 - 06:36
strength of rails
I am wondering if anyone answered dgahunia's question about the rails? Are the screws strong enough. If so, what size screw did you use and can you take them apart to move the bed? Are their any other options for the rail attachment? Thank you. I am just about done with my bed and want to double check I attach the rails correctly.
ga_stone
Sat, 11/01/2014 - 19:32
Stain Colors and Brand, plus question on Step 3
This is a great plan but and I really like the color of the stain in the pictures at the beginning of these plans. Can you please let me know the stain brand, color, and whether you did a coat of poly on top of the stain?
Also, in the diagram for Step 3, it seems like the panel for the headboard if flush with the back of the posts instead of the front of the posts (as all the other pictures of the finished be seem to be). Was this just an oversight?
Thanks again. Great design!
hwinger
Tue, 12/23/2014 - 21:37
We made this bed in the king
We made this bed in the king size. DEFINITELY sand each shim prior to gluing it down. It is definitely no fun rolling over in the night and hurting my hand on the rough shims. I would also recommend staining the headboard (the base for the shims) prior to gluing down shims so that any holes between shims blend in with the stain color underneath. We did not and there are a couple spots that you can see the plain wood under the shims. Also, we did what they recommended in the plans to secure the side rails. The bed is not very stable and squeaks. We keep talking about altering it somewhat, but it's so dang heavy that we have been putting it off. One other thing that I wish we had done would have been to sand off the corners of the end of the footboard. We've gotten a few bruises from walking into the ends. It cost more than we expected and it took longer. But overall, we love it and are very happy with it. Just wish we had known now to do some things differently.
smithknk
Thu, 05/28/2015 - 13:22
using existing rails?
Would using an existing mattress frame work for this and just attach the headboard and footer to the frame? Love the headboard and all the hints people have given to make it easier!
elslap1
Sat, 03/05/2016 - 08:17
using existing rails
I ended up doing this. I planned to build the bed as depicted but I already had a king frame that we had been using. I ended up drilling holes in the metal frame and screwing from the metal frame to the 4x4's attached to the side pieces (1x12's). I used 1.5" screws as the width of a 2x4 is roughly 1.5". It is important to factor in the width of the bed frame, as it may be different than the official plans, so you may need to make the headboard and footboard slightly narrower to attach to the side rails in the original fashion. I hope this helps, please let me know if anybody needs specific advice on how I modified the measurements or adapted the different widths and I will be happy to help.
-Elliot
Trauberman
Sun, 08/23/2015 - 16:39
Master Bedroom - Frame
Potential Idea
dmozer74
Wed, 12/16/2015 - 13:13
Build Price
Can you give some guidance on how you had such low costs on this project? I can't seem to get the costs below ~$250 for the wood alone, plus stain.
Hollymomof4
Fri, 02/26/2016 - 19:31
Assistance Needed
I love this bed and am going to make it! Instead of a foot board I need to build some steps up so that our elderly little pup can make it up onto the bed. I want to make them the full width of the bed but am not sure how to plan this out, can someone suggest an easy way to do this?