Corner Cupboard

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 12/27/2010 - 19:44
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This corner cupboard can turn an empty corner into a storage and display spot. Cleverly designed to minimize board waste and to be easy to build.

Special thanks to Tamara for sharing her photos with us.

Thank you Mamma_joy for not only requesting this plan, but actually believing that I might have the ability to come up with a simple way to build it.  So many of you have requested corner cabinets, and I've been listening.  But like Erin says in her project suggestion, how would we build this one without beveling the sides, requiring a table saw?  Definitely required some deep thinking, and I'm so proud to publish this plan AND also say, it's pretty simple, totally buildable, and you don't have to have a table saw at your disposal.

I tried to keep the dimensions close to Erin's suggestion for the plan

But it's a no brainer to modify the corner cupboard to be a little wider

Just use a 1x12 for the back instead of a 1x8 as the plan calls for.  For both plans, the shelves are made of 1x12s, so the shelves will only be approximately 11 1/2" deep.

So go measure your corner.  Do you have 21 1/2" of space?  Then the question is, do you have some beadboard?

72" tall. Width and Depth can vary as built.


Shopping List

2 – 1x12s, 6 feet long
1 – 1×8, 6 feet long
1 – 1×4, 6 feet long
1 sheet of beadboard, preferably 1/4″ to 3/8″ thick
3 – 1x3s, 8 feet long
1 – 1×2, 3 feet long
1 – 36″ long crown moulding or other moulding

Cut List

1 – 1×8 @ 72″ (Back)
6 – 1×12 @ 30 1/2″, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square (see step 1)
2 – 1×3 @ 72″ (Front Side Trim)
2 – Beadboard @ 16 1/4″ x 72″ (Measure for exact fit)
2 – 1×4 @ 26 1/2″ (Top and Bottom Trim, measure for exact fit)
1 – 1×2 @ 26 1/2″ (Tabletop trim, measure for exact fit)
top moulding – measure to fit
Doors – see step 6.


Step 1

Cut Shelves

This step would be really straight forward if widths of boards didn’t vary so much depending on where you live. So take your 1×8 pine boards and measure how wide they are. Can be anywhere from 7″ to 7 1/2″. Note this then start cutting your shelves by cutting one end of the 1×12 at 45 degrees. Then measure the width of the 1×8 (in the example above that is 7 1/2″) and a 45 degree cut PERPENDICULAR to the first cut. Then continue making cuts to make all your shelves. In this manner you can easily adjust the width of your back to the width of a 1×12 or 1×10. You will need to cut six shelves totally.

Step 2


Now mark the back as shown in the diagram above. All shelves need to be fixed. Predrill your holes or pocket holes and apply glue. Attach back to shelves with 2″ screws and glue.

Step 3

Front Side Trim

Mark the front side trim 1/2″ in all the way down the length of the back side of the side trim. Then mark all shelf locations as indicated in the above diagram. Predrill holes. Consider the depth of your screws and the angled shelf cuts as you place your screws – 2″ screws on the inside and 1 1/4″ screws on the outer edge, 2 screws per shelf. Use glue. Don’t stress this one too much, the sides are going to get beadboard (super strong) over them. The main thing is to get these lined up just right.

Step 4


Measure the width of the open spaces on the back sides, and cut your beadboard to fit. Shown above is the perfect dimensions for 1x12s that measure 11 1/2″ wide. Try to get a nice tight fit. Apply glue to the shelf edges that are exposed and use 1 1/4″ screws to attach the beadboard to the shelves. Keep the beadboard first and foremost flush to the back 1×8, as this is the seam that will be most visible. The front seams are hidden behind the front side trim.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Moulding

Measure the top and tack the crown o

Step 7


The doors are the most difficult part because most of us don’t have routers or tablesaws. If you do have a router or table saw, you can build your doors inset as shown above. because of the shelf behind the doors, the doors must be no more than 3/4″ thick, so you will have to inset the panel in the frame of the door. There are other options.

Step 8

You can build an overlay door. Simply build a frame out of 1x3s, either using a Kreg Jig™ or 3″ fine screws to build the frame. Then tack beadboard to the back, but make sure the beadboard would fit in the opening in the shelf.

Step 9

And you would want to add the center post to remove any gaps between the doors.


Lisa W (not verified)

Mon, 12/27/2010 - 20:11

Looks exactly like the one I had growing up. I ended up selling it a couple of years ago because it was a pain to move and the wood on one side of the back was broken and I didn't know how to fix it. I don't know that I'll make this, but thanks for the memories brought back just by seeing the piece. Have a great night!

mamma_joy (not verified)

Mon, 12/27/2010 - 20:12

You're awesome! I had no doubt you would be able to do this...and now we all can, too! It looks so fun to build! Thank you for all that you do!!

P.S. I feel like a celebrity being mentioned in your post! <3

Lynn (not verified)

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 02:09

This is great. I agree with Michelle, this would be great modified to be a corner entertainment center. I would definitely make that since I have been trying to figure one out for my home. Hmmm, will have to see if I can modify for the size of my flat screen tv. Thanks, as always for the great stuff.
I got tools and a gift card for lumber as gifts this year (that was all I asked for) so, along with my chop saw, my kreg regular and micro jigs and my drill, I will be all set to get building! The basement is a workshop just for me and I am creating a craft room from one of our bedrooms for my sewing and fabric crafts! You are a gift!

Leroy Barrentine (not verified)

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 12:43

A few years back My Wife wanted one that Penny's sold,it was
$495:oo We got to looking around the catalog outlet stores and foud the exect same cabinet.The only thing wrong with it was one of the back panels was busted and was missing a foot on the front.

We got it for $85:00 and went to Lowes and got a sheet of 1/4" luan for the back that matched the other side and they had the same exect same foot.

So if You want to spend some time You might luck up and find a deal as We did.Not takeing anything away from Anna I love Her disigns and have built many of them.

shelley (not verified)

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 04:55

I'm sorry, I know I should post this on community board but some how am not computer literate enough to do so. Is it safe to use pressure treated lumber for inside projects if it is painted/sealed? I have 4 tiny girls and have heard some about the chemicals in the treated wood being so bad for you. But I didn't know if it was painted if it made any difference? My husband has lots of scraps I would love to steal :) but I wasn't sure if that was ok? Sorry, I'm totally new. I've never built anything before so I don't know anything about wood. Thank you to anyone who is nice enough to answer my question!

Deb W (not verified)

Wed, 03/30/2011 - 19:30

Shelley,  PLEASE don't use PT wood for any projects where kids are involved!  One tiny little sliver will give the worst infection (personal experience) and little kids are so much more susceptible to any kind of poison... Better safe than sorry, right?

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