Build a three story dream dollhouse perfect for 12" dolls with these free easy step by step do it yourself dollhouse plans! Inspired by the KidKraft So Chic dollhouse, this do it yourself version is made of soy based plywood and finished with non toxic linseed oil.

Preparation
1 - sheet 3/4" PureBond Plywood
7 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1/4" plywood scraps for roof
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long for stairs
4 - 2" caster wheels and screws for 3/4" stock
use either 3" screws or 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, depending on your joinery technique
7 - 2x2 @ 32"
6 - 2x2 @ 24"
4 - 2x2 @ (Both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel, long point measurement)
4 - 2x2 @ 37 5/8" (One end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
Plywood cut to diagram
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Have your home improvement center rip your plywood into a strip 24" wide and a strip 13 1/2" wide as shown in diagram. Then all you have to do is make the crosscuts.
NOTE: I really considered using 1/4" plywood for the floors, but wanted to create a dollhouse that would last and last - and could even be used as a bookshelf later on. The 1/4" plywood is just too flimsy for that. Then I considered 1/2", but the price difference between 1/2" and 3/4" is only a few bucks, and 3/4" is just so much easier to work with because you have a wider area to work with. Of course you can modify this plan - if you made this dollhouse with 1/4" plywood, it would be CHEAP to make ... like $30 cheap.
Step 2
Build the ends as shown above. You can use a countersink bit and 3" screws or the Kreg Jig and 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2 pocket hole screws. For the angled joints, just clamp, glue and predrill holes with a countersink bit. I only used one screw (and alot of glue) for each joint to avoid splitting the wood.
Step 3
Step 4
Step 6
Step 7
Step 11
Step 12
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Emily W. (not verified)
Mon, 12/19/2011 - 14:20
RE: Pocket Holes on Angled Joints
While I really appreciated the guidance, these settings didn't quite work for me; the 2" screw ended up being too long and piercing through to the other side. I played around with some scrap, and these settings worked best for me:
bit collar set at 1"
hole guide set at 1 1/4"
using 1 1/2" screw
I just thought I'd comment in the case that someone else was also experiencing this problem. Well, back to building... Christmas is soon approaching!
MicheleC (not verified)
Mon, 12/05/2011 - 08:50
What did you spend building this?
This is for everyone who has built one of these. How much did you spend building it?
Thanks!
moonhopping
Fri, 01/13/2012 - 19:55
Cost
$40 for the wood, screws and glue. Alot more on a new sawblade, sandpaper disks, claps, kreg jr, modge podg, scrapbook paper and paint.
But hey now my workshop is stocked.
I think i could mave dne it for close to $50 but i decided if i was gonna spend the time I should do it nice.
Tim Gary (not verified)
Sun, 11/18/2012 - 07:46
I spent about $70 on lumber,
I spent about $70 on lumber, went ahead and bought the cheaper pocket jib for $20, and then my wife spent $10-$20 on decorating materials and paint.
KeishaP (not verified)
Tue, 12/06/2011 - 12:16
Awesome Plan, but two questions.
This plan is wonderful, I am about to start building this for my daughter and I can't wait until she sees it. Two questions though, I am a first time Kreg Jig user and if I use the 1/2" plywood instead of the 3/4" do I need different sized screws? Please help, I don't want to screw this up (pun kind of intended). Also, can I use 1X2s or 1X1s for the supports instead of 2x2s - they seem so bulky. Please help!
KeishaP (not verified)
Thu, 12/08/2011 - 09:58
Found an answer
I was thinking I needed 2x2 Pine boards, which are pretty heavy but I just realized they are furring strips which are much lighter. Now, I just need to find some decent ones that are straight and smoother. And I think I have the Kreg Jig situation under control.
cb (not verified)
Sun, 12/11/2011 - 10:01
Missing Measurement
It looks like you didn't give the measurement for the 2x2s used to create the roof:
4 - 2x2 @ (Both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel, long point measurement)
cb (not verified)
Sun, 12/11/2011 - 10:26
Disregard. I found them in
Disregard. I found them in the diagram on step 2.
bhoppy
Mon, 12/19/2011 - 07:33
32 by 24 boards
So I went to get all the wood for making the dollhouse yesterday. I got Orange to rip the plywood so all I would have to do is make the crosscuts. The problem I had was when I got ready to make the crosscuts with the diagram and realized the measurements for the 32 x24 inch pieces didn't take into account the width of the saw blade. So I had to change the measurements for all the 32 inch 2 by 2s to match the width of the floors. Mine are 31 7/8. I’m surprised no one has come across this issue. Am I missing something? And thanks Christine to all for mentioning the missed measurement for the roof.
Emily W. (not verified)
Mon, 12/19/2011 - 16:43
Another Option for Staircase
For anyone else dreading cutting/nailing/gluing all of those stairs: http://www.sweet-juniper.com/2007/06/mies-van-der-rohe-dollhouse.html
It looks like a much easier way to make stairs, and I really like the cleaner look (even if it is a bit less realistic).