4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long
7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long
3” self tapping wood screws
2 ½” pocket hole screws
2” finish nails
- 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
- 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
- 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
- 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
- 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”
2 – 2x4 @ 65”
2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)
4 – 2x10 @ 96”
** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws
Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side
And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.
And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8” short point to short point.
Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends
Followed by the little feet ...
I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges
The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes. But you will have to fill later with wood filler.
An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.
And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.
If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.
And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.
For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.