Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

 

 

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

 

 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

 

Thanks Whitney!!!

 

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List

ENDS

  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

 

MAIN TABLE

2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

 

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

jesseroche

Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22

Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.

jesseroche

Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22

Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.

Pmeverden

Sun, 04/03/2016 - 12:33

I want to build this table for outdoors. I plan to cover the top to prevent damage but the legs will still get wet. I don't want to use pressure treated wood for many reasons. Can I use use pine from Home Depot and keep it stained and coated with spar? I live in Pennsylvania and. Have heard that Douglas Fir or Cedar would be good. Also I am concerned about the overall weight of the table. Has anyone used 1 x instead of 2x boards for the top.

pixelthecat

Tue, 05/31/2016 - 10:42

Use something relatively weatherproof.

Redwood is a good choice for softwood, but you'll still need to seal it with polyurethane. Pine (including doug fir) will not stand up to water particularly well and your hard work won't last as long.

If price isn't a question, look at Teak, Cedar, or Eucalyptus, which are far more weatherproof than other woods. 

BrittLee2307

Wed, 04/06/2016 - 13:45

I would like to be able to make the table top longer, in order to be able to use the ends as additional seating. What adjustments would I need to make, in order to ensure its a solid structrue? I plan on making 2 of the fancy X farmhouse benches and using them as seating, but also want to add a chair to either end of the table, so I'm assuming the top would need to be longer?? LOVE this table and the benches!!! LOVE your style and love this site!!!!!

cdd1204

Thu, 04/28/2016 - 15:57

Love love this table!!  My husband and I built it but there are not instructions for attaching the top.  Can you please let us know how you did it?  Thank you!

Amber Lea

Sun, 05/08/2016 - 17:18

I am still relatively new to work working. I have been slowly collecting tools to make this table. I love the chunky look of the 4x4 vs. the 2x4. I have been working on this for a few weeks and am really struggling. I am still on step 1 and am having trouble joining the 4x4s. Did anyone else have this problem? Is this a problem when using 2x4s? (I'm assuming with 2x4s clamps can be used?) Thank you for your advice!

sjaustin

Mon, 05/09/2016 - 14:10

You could use clamps with the 4x4s, but I'm not sure that I would. I would just lay the pieces down on my work surface, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw, holding the smaller angled piece in place with my left hand while screwing from the back of the long straight piece with the right. What exactly are you having trouble with? What in particular seems to be going wrong when you try to join the pieces?

Amber Lea

Tue, 05/10/2016 - 10:20

I used the Kreg Jig HD to screw holes and when I try to join them I am struggling both to keep both pieces of wood aligned and to screw the PH screws in deep enough that the two pieces stay together. I am having trouble holding them together and pushing the screw deep enough that they stay together.

sjaustin

Tue, 05/10/2016 - 12:37

The Kreg PH system isn't intended to be used for anything thicker than 1.5" (nominal 2") and won't work for 4x4s. I would use deck screws with a minimum length of 4".