This farmhouse bench is easy to build and is rustic and substantial. It is designed to match our Farmhouse Table Plans.
Preparation
4 – 2x4s, stud length or 8 foot length
2 – 1x4s, 8 foot length
1 – 1×2, 8 foot length
2 1/2″ screws
2″ screws
8 – 2x4s @ 16 1/2″ (Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 2 1/4″ (Spacers)
2 – 1×4 @ 6″ (End Aprons)
2 – 2×4 @ 12″ (Stretchers)
2 – 1×4 @ 61″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×4 @ 9 1/2″ (Inner Aprons)
5 – 1×2 @ 9 1/2″ (Supports)
4 – 2×4 @ 65″ (Bench Seat Boards)
2 – 1×4 @ 14″ (Breadboard Ends)
The Farmhouse Bench is designed to work with this Farmhouse Table, but there is no reason you could not modify the dimensions or use it as a coffee table or outdoor bench. If you plan to build the Farmhouse Table, starting with the bench will give you a chance to test out your skills on a smaller version. For those of you who have a pocket hole system, you can use the pocket holes to build your bench seat separate. You can also fasten your aprons directly to the legs without spacers.
Instructions
Step 1
Legs The notches and stretchers on the legs is optional. Notch out your legs (for full instructions see the Farmhouse Table post) and laminate your legs together in pairs of 2 with glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Then take note of the placement of the spacers and attach to the insides of the legs. This will differ depending on the leg. Attach with 2″ screws and glue.
Step 2
End Aprons Attach end aprons to the spacers as shown above. Use glue and 2″ screws.
Step 3
Stretcher The stretcher gets attached in the same method. Screws and glue.
Step 4
Bench Frame Build the bench frame, keeping the 1×2 supports flush to the top. Easy method is to flip it all over and keep the supports flush to the bottom :)
Step 5
Step 6
Seat Boards Find the center of the supports and begin attaching seat boards from the underside. Work with the boards to minimize gaps as you go. Attach all seat boards. If you have a pocket hole system, you would build your bench seat separate, and then attach.
Step 7
Breadboard Ends If you have a pocket hole system, you would attach the breadboard ends directly to the seat boards in step 6. Otherwise, attach to leg bases.
Step 8
Finishing If you are staining, be very careful to not let glue dry on the project, as these areas will not take stain. Fill holes with wood filler, sand and paint or stain as desired.
Comments
Whitney_Smith (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 02:53
AH... This just got pushed
AH... This just got pushed way up! I must go scrounge around for a few more 2x4's! I can't wait to do this!!!
nicolae
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 13:13
I did this project too and it
I did this project too and it looks amazing. Whenever I will want to decorate rooms I will visit your site. Your ideas are great.
Kim (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 03:28
I have been anxiously
I have been anxiously awaiting for this. I love it! Can't wait to get started on it.....I have some spare time tonight. :) Awesome.
Heather (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 04:11
perfect! now i know what is
perfect! now i know what is going to replace these chairs that have taken years of (ab)use and are falling apart! love this, thanks again!
Julie (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 06:35
I'm confused how you would
I'm confused how you would build the bench seat seperate and then attach with a pocket hole system. Would you attach the supports to the seat boards ahead of time with pocketholes? Then how do you attach to the frame?
It might be too early in the morning for me to be looking at furniture plans...
Jason (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 07:10
I don't think that you can
I don't think that you can use the 'stud' length 2x4s for this project. They are 92 5/8" long and you require 65" for the bench top, 16 1/2" for the legs (4 of each) and 2 pieces @ 12" for the stretchers. That totals 93 1/2" without any allowance for the saw blade or squaring the ends. You will either need to use 96" lengths or add a extra 'stud'.
Also, the link for notching out the legs is gone. The table instructions state to go to the 'how-to' section, but that no longer exists on your new site layout (that I could find).
Love the projects ... the bench is less than $15 to make!
Gary (not verified)
Thu, 11/17/2011 - 16:17
@Jason >Love the projects
@Jason
>Love the projects ... the bench is less than $15 to make!
Hi, interesting comment, is there anyway you can justify that it is less than $15 to make? i.e. links, cost breakdowns, etc.
If it's true that you can buy all of that timber for under $15 then there is something seriously wrong with the hardware and timber trade where I live and I would love to take some evidence of price gouging (i.e. a comparison to your BOM) to the ombudsman.
If any one else has a comment regarding the costing of this project I would appreciate it.
The best I can come up with (just for the wood) is:
Qty dimension dimension cost total
imperial metric plm cost
4 2"x4"x8' 45x90x2400 2.92 $28.03
2 1"x4"x8' 35x90x2400 2.5 $12.00
1 1"x2"x8' 35x45x2400 2.9 $6.97
$47.00
(source: http://buybuildingsupplies.com.au/timber-general-pine-radiata-c-70_2825…)
Great project BTW!
Cheers,
Gary
Darren (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 07:19
Both tables look amazing!
Both tables look amazing! Great job Kristen & Jackie....what an inspiration!
Jackie Solomon (not verified)
Wed, 01/05/2011 - 09:03
I look forward to checking
I look forward to checking your blog everyday! To find my bench and table featured seriously made my day! Thanks Ana!!
Jason (not verified)
Thu, 01/06/2011 - 05:40
It also looks like the
It also looks like the Breadboard ends are listed on the cut list as being from the wrong dimensional lumber - they should be from 2x4 stock, not the 1x4.