Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 09/25/2018 - 23:40
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Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.

Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

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farmhouse bed with storage drawers
farmhouse storage bed dimensions queen

Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans

 

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

 
It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

 
 
I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
 
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
 
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
 
Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse bed with storage drawers in queen size
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
  • 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
  • 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
  • 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
  • 6 Knobs or handles

NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves.  The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

 

FOOTBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

 

STORAGE BOXES

  • 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
  • 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 79 1/2" x 15"

 

SUPPORT & CENTER

  • 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
  • 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)

 

OPTIONAL DRAWER BOXES

  • 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
  • 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
  • 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood

 

OPTIONAL DRAWER FACES

  • 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

Step 2

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

Step 3

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5

Step 6

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Room

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 12/22/2011 - 17:43

I really like the plans for the bed however I have a question about wood because of my inexperience. It appears that by using plywood you are assuming that the bed will be painted because there is no discussion about covering the edges of the plywood for the boxes that hold the drawers. I would like to make this bed and stain it, any suggestions on wood. What type of wood is used for wood not marked plywood or hobby stock.

Thanks for your help!

CarolBJ (not verified)

Thu, 05/31/2012 - 14:49

You can use the less expensive wood for the parts you don't see, and good, furniture grade wood (oak, maple, etc) for the parts you do see. Good luck!

Brian (not verified)

Sat, 01/07/2012 - 19:04

I am wanting to build this bed for my son. However, a queen is more bed than he needs right now. Is there any way to get this plan with "full" dimensions?

toddr

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 22:09

Just take the difference from the two sizes and subtract that from the pieces that go from one side to the other. Full mattresses tend to be shorter than queen so you would have to decrease that amount in length. This will in turn change the dimensions of the drawers.

Emil

Fri, 01/13/2012 - 20:22

Hello Ana, I am finishing with the Headboard. I was using oak plywood and 1x4 and 1x6 oak pieces. The posts a 4x4 untreated wood from Home depot. My question is, Because I want to stain it and the 4x4 posts a not oak, "How will the stain look?" will staining be a mistake. I will use wood conditioner, also thinking to use wood reinforcement for posts (to strengthen wood fibers). Will I do something wrong. Please take a look at my pictures, attached with link. I added a 1x1 piece on the back panel because headboard is very heavy and the a got the gap between. I plan to use some wood filler. If anyone have experience with staining the 4x4 post please reply.

jeremychristina

Sat, 01/14/2012 - 14:12

Is this for a queen? I'm currently doing the drawing for a Full and will post the pics once I have built it, so everyone can see it. Can't wait to get this started!

SaraJane (not verified)

Wed, 02/29/2012 - 18:33

Did you ever get the plans for this bed in the full size done? I would be very interested in seeing it!

Lindsay (not verified)

Thu, 01/19/2012 - 07:23

I am also looking to build this bed in a twin size version. Are their any plans? Also, has any one built this who can give me an idea of material costs? I will probably use knotty pine since I will be painting it white.

mikehc05

Wed, 01/25/2012 - 15:25

I'm a bit confused by the plans. It seems in this case that to make the storage boxes calls for 8 - 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 3/4in plywood, but the cut diagram in step 1 and 2 results in 4 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 and 4 15 1/2 x 13 1/4. Am I missing something?