A Frame Chicken Coop Tractor

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 06/20/2019 - 11:11
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How to build A Frame Chicken Coop - portable and small with built in nesting box and perch. You'll love our easy to follow free plans from Ana-White.com. Builders spend about $100 building this coop.

UPDATE: I have created new, updated plans for this chicken coop here.  

A frame chicken coop
a frame chicken coop inside flipped down door

Scramble made it up the ladder yesterday.

Our girls - French Toast, Sunny, Easy and we hope Scramble is indeed a lady too - have been enjoying this simple, easy to make and portable A Frame style chicken coop for about a month now.

a frame chicken coop plans

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A Frame Chicken Coop Tractor

a frame chicken coop dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. Suitable for 2-4 Chickens.


Shopping List
  • 14 - 2x4s, 8 feet long
  • 1 - sheet 3/4" t1-11
  • 6 total T-Strap hinges
  • 30 feet of 30" wide chicken wire (I used 36" because I couldn't find 30" locally)
  • 2 3/4" exterior self tapping deck screws
  • 1/2" exterior staples for chicken wire
  • scrap plywood piece for floor of upstairs coop and ladder
  • Optional 1x2s for trim out if desired
Cut List
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 64" (Long point measurement, top end cut at 60 degrees off square, bottom end cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 96"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 64" (Long point measurement, both ends cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 32" (Long point measurement, both ends cut at 30 degrees off square)
  • 4 - pieces t1-11 siding cut into 24" x 48" pieces
  • Optional 1x2 trim
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Staple Gun
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Cutting the top angle is going to be a pain - I know - if your miter saw does not cut 60 degree angles. What you will need to do is mark the angles with your square and then cut with a circular saw. Remember, it's 60 degrees off square.

Once you have your rafters cut, then you can simply attach the side support boards. NOTE: I left a 24 1/2" gap for 24" wide t1-11 - you may wish to leave a slightly wider gap for easier access to the upstairs coop - or you can cut your plywood down to fit.

Another trick here is to cover the bottom with chicken wire. These things are always easier done now rather than when you are inside the coop :)

Step 2

Once you have the two walls built, just attach at base with base supports. Then attach tops with countersunk screws.

Step 3

Thes are really going to add a ton of strength to the coop! And make a floor for the upstairs room. Attach from outside with the 2 3/4" exterior screws.

Step 4

Now add the doors. For mine, we used two full doors, but a better idea would be to split the doors into two so accessing the different sections is easier.

NOTE: We trimmed out the doors in 1x3s for added strength and because the hinges we had required it.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type


Cheramie (not verified)

Thu, 05/31/2012 - 17:29

Wow, Ana!!! You guys are so incredible about just picking a direction and running with it! I'm so impressed, once again! We have a coop on wheels that's been done for about a year, but still can't move the chickens out of the stationary one because we haven't gone to the trouble to put together the wired 'run' area that will slip over the front of our little chicken ark. :) Thanks for the inspiration to get them outside fertilizing our yard and get us done scooping poop!

Ginger (not verified)

Fri, 06/01/2012 - 13:14

Great design! I need to make one this weekend.

If anyone building this has raccoons in their area, be aware that raccoons can tear right through chicken wire. Not all will, but they can. For a bit more predator proof coop you might want to consider using welded wire, it is more expensive, but worth it in the long run. Oh, and the small square welded wire is better than the large so the raccoons can't reach in a try and pull the chickens through. Once again, ask me how I know. Hopefully you can learn from my experience.

Lavina Dee (not verified)

Fri, 06/01/2012 - 23:15

Great job! Just an FYI, we don't heat our chickens (Were on the Kenai Pen.) and they tend to do better when kept at a consistent temp. We don't heat our girls at all. Not even in the winter. Granted our temps are more mild than yours but they don't need blankets or heaters in the summer. They will grow a thicker layer of feathers and they will huddle for warmth. We love having fresh eggs and will never go back to store-bought!


Sun, 06/03/2012 - 12:28

My husband and son made this yesterday for our chicken Penny. It turned out great. Thanks for the plans!


Mon, 06/18/2012 - 12:42

My husband and I built most of this yesterday evening. It took about 4 hours, and we still have to put in the roost floor, make an egg door, and trim out and put on the side doors. So far materials have cost just under $200, but I did buy some extra hardware cloth (not chicken wire). I've made a few modifications; I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done! This week we'll add the feeder and waterer (planning to DIY using PVC), make the ladder, and add a door at the bottom of the coop to let the chickens out to free range. We don't have chickens yet but I have begun the search. If anyone in northwest Atlanta has some who need a loving home, let me know!


Thu, 03/19/2015 - 12:21

Anniejw17-- I recently moved to Northwest Atlanta and was wondering if you'd found a good chicken supplier? I'm still trying to get things ready for my chicks, and would LOVE more info. on this particular area. Also, would love to see pics. of the coop!

Linda Johnson (not verified)

Thu, 07/26/2012 - 11:52

What is the capacity of your henhouse? Could you have a couple more chickens in it?

You might freerange if you sewed those jackets for them that they fall out of when a hawk picks them up by it! The collar extends up over their necks like Elvis with his collar up, and when they get picked up by the quilted jacket, they sag down under it and their wings fall out of the armholes. The hawk is left with nothing but a quilted jacket...unless he comes back, I guess. Then the chicken wouldn't be wearing her jacket. Hawks might figure this out!

Eri (not verified)

Sat, 08/04/2012 - 20:33

Aloha Ana!
I'm really digging this A-fram coop design of yours, but am wondering if you have any ideas on how to easily convert it into a tractor with wheels and a handle? I have a few ideas, but wondering what the logistics look like in your mind.
Looking forward to hearing back from you.

michael s (not verified)

Fri, 08/10/2012 - 05:22

Two weeks ago we lost 4 of our chickens to a hawk or fox. I've been crawling the internet looking for something we can use as a tractor and it seems that adding two wheels to the back of this coop should accomplish this. We're going to try to build the coop this weekend. Will update on cost and time once done. Thanks for posting!

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