Easy canopy bed plans from Ana -White.com! Make this bed!
4 - 2x3 @ 8 feet or stud length (if you can't get 2x3s, you can also rip 2x6s into 2 1/2" widths to make your own - you'll need 2 - 2x6s @ 8 feet or stud length if you do this)
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1/2 sheet of hardwood plywood (I used PureBond Birch)
1 - 2x8 @ 10 feet long
1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
slats - you can get two out of one 8 foot board - we used 2x4s
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws are highly recommended
2 1/2" wood screws for attaching the cleats to the siderails
4 - 2x3 @ 78" (legs - taper in step 1)
2 - 2x2 @ 36 1/2" (headboard top/bottom)
1 - 3/4" hardwood plywood @ 39" x 36 1/2" (I used PureBond Birch)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
This was definitely the most difficult part of the bed build - tapering the legs with a circular saw. But the bed just is so much cuter with the tapered legs - so very worth the effort! Start the taper from the end cut of the board. We sanded the finished cut with a belt sander as well to smooth it out.
You'll need to cut four legs total.
From your plywood panel, drill 3/4" pocket holes (about every 8") around all sides. Also drill a single 1 1/2" pocket hole on each end of the 2x2s.
Then attach the plywood panel to the 2x2s, flush to the back side.
Next, attach the panel to the legs with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then use 2 1/2" pocket hole scews to attach the 2x2s to the legs, all edges flush to back side.
TIP: Drill a single 1 1/2" pocket hole on the top back side of the legs before attaching for attaching the top 2x2 in the next step.
Next, add the top through the predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
This entire panel can now be finished (pocket holes filled, sanded and painted). The bed itself will be too big to move into a room, so you'll need to bring the headboard panel, footboard panel, and siderails in seperately, then assemble in the room.
The canopy sides are attached on top with pocket holes - hidden where you can't see them.
The siderails are attached from inside with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
Cleats are attached to inside of siderails with 2 1/2" screws - you may wish to do this in the room. The cleats do not need to be finished.
Slats are layed on top of cleats and screwed down following assembly.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.