Mod Bar - Stemware Hutch

diy wine stemholders
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Plans to build a stemware hutch inspired by Pottery Barn's modular bar collection. Build your own with free, step-by-step plans.

diy wine stemholders
diy wine stemholders
diy wine stemholders
Dimensions
diy wine stemware hutch plans
17 3/4"W x 15 3/4"D x 34 3/4"H

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 10 feet of 1x12 boards – for three hutches, use a single sheet of plywood cut into 11 ¾” wide strips 8 feet long. Make longest cuts first.
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • Use ¼” plywood from base to cover back.
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 34” (sides)
  • 4 – 1x2 @ 11 1-4” (width of 1x12s)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 34”
  • 6 – 1x3 @ 12”
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 12”
  • 1 – 2x2 @ 14 ¾”
  • 1 – 1x2 @ 17 ¾”
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 17 ¾”
  • 1 – 1x3 @ 17 ¾”
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 14 ¾”
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 14 ¾”
  • ¼” plywood @ 17 ¾” x 34 ¾” (See base plan)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Cut your 1x2 trim to the width of your 1 x 12 boards, and nail to the sides using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 2

Attach the side trim with either pocket hole screws set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, or by nailing 2" finish nails through the sides.

Step 3

Nail 1x3s to the sides using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails. You may have to adjust it's length, depending on the width of your 1 x 12

Step 4

Nail 1x2s to the underside of the 1x3s added in the previous step using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 5

Step 6

Using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock, build the top using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach the top to the base with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails, keep the sides and back flush.

Step 7

Build your shelves as shown above with pocket holes. Then you can attach them with pocket holes from the underside, or shelf pins for adjustable shelves.

Step 8

Build the remaining stemware pieces and attach to top.

Step 9

And finally, the back.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

guest (not verified)

Tue, 01/31/2012 - 07:45

This is really a beautiful project!! I have to ask since I'm still new ar this, how do you connect the hutch and base?

In reply to by guest (not verified)

Lady Goats

Tue, 01/31/2012 - 08:01

Hi and thanks! :-) I built a bottom shelf for this, so I just screwed through the bottom shelf into the base. I also added some 1x3 braces to the back of mine so that I could screw it into the wall (one under the stemware "slides", and one under the middle shelf).

tannisg

Tue, 01/31/2012 - 09:18

I love this! And we really need to build a bar/liquor cabinet/hutch of some sort (already have two china hutches, but still have things that don't fit, how sad is that!?)

But with toddlers and teenagers and all ages in between, I don't think the open wine storage in the bottom will work :) We need something that closes and preferably something that locks..

Maybe I could put a glass door on it or something?

claydowling

Tue, 01/31/2012 - 15:49

If you want the hutch, build the hutch, with or without door. If you're worried about your kids drinking, that's a conversation you should have with them that's separate from the furniture.

The lock is a non-issue with your kids and booze. I lived with an underage alcoholic who never once touched my well-stocked and unlocked cabinet. In my youth, although I was far from temperate, I never bothered taking anybody else's booze either. A teenager after something that's been forbidden will move heaven and earth to lay hands on it.

tannisg

Tue, 01/31/2012 - 16:24

Clay - I agree wholeheartedly about teaching them about drinking, and actually I do trust my teen. She's only 12 so I guess she's not technically a teen yet, but will be soon. I just like the idea of having it behind a closed door at least so its not a temptation. I think when she has friends over, or we hire a babysitter, or whatever, I'd rather not have it sitting open for her to have to worry about someone wanting. Probably silly of me.

And a moot point because the 1 and 3 year olds would spill/break/play with it long before anyone would drink it! They spilled a whole container of margarita salt that was sitting with the wine in our current open configuration - took weeks to sweep it all up because I tried to let roomba pick it up and it got spread into a thin layer all over my living room...

SongBabe7 (not verified)

Fri, 02/10/2012 - 10:59

Add a door and put a Totlock on it. It's completely invisible from the outside, so it won't alert an unfamiliar person to the way to get it open. And it keeps the toddlers out too.

SongBabe7 (not verified)

Fri, 02/10/2012 - 11:01

Add a door and put a Totlock on it. It's completely invisible from the outside, so it won't alert an unfamiliar person to the way to get it open. And it keeps the toddlers out too.

lazyLiz

Thu, 02/09/2012 - 20:05

I'm in the middle of building my display cabinet for my breakfast area and I just saw this one. I think I'm going to steal from your plan and add the hanging glass thingy on mine :-) (don't drink much wine but I like how it looks)

markw

Tue, 02/21/2012 - 12:37

I want to build this for my wife, but I don't quite understand how to do the stemare holders. What is their size and spacing, and how did you attach them? Did you nail them to the top before you nailed that on?

Thanks for the great project!

claydowling

Tue, 02/21/2012 - 15:17

Sizing and spacing of the stemware holders is fairly easy. You need to size them big enough to hold your stemware, and space them far enough apart to fit your stemware into them.

It's easiest to figure out by cutting the top piece, then setting up a row of stemware on top of it. Because people have different sized glasses, size it to the stemware that you have. Set 1x material on edge between the glasses, and that marks the position of your rails in the final cabinet.

Lady Goats

Tue, 04/16/2013 - 12:22

Hi Cindy! I spent $143 on the bar (that's for both the hutch and the wine-grid base, including hardware, pocket hole screws and sandpaper ;-) ) - If you decide to do it without the cove moulding (I still haven't added mine), that'll save you about $15.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!