Modern Paver Planter

diy modern planter concrete wood
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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How to build a modern paver planter out of concrete blocks and 2x2s!

 

More Planters Made with Concrete Pavers

 

Colorful concrete from Brite and Bubbly

 

Elegant and tiled from The Wood Grain Cottage

 

 

Creative from All Things Thrifty

 

Classic monogramed by The Yellow Cape Cod

 

 Swiss Cross painted planter by DIY on the Cheap

 

 

Gold paint glam by Our Life is Beautiful

 

Mini and modern tiled planter by Damask Love

These planter are all so beautiful and creative, I'm almost afraid to share mine!

Since it's still winter in Alaska, I couldn't get the 12x12 paver blocks used for landscaping yet in my Home Depot.  There was still several feet of snow in the outdoor section.  So I headed over to the concrete section and found 16x8x2 concrete block caps, and decided to use them instead.  And here's what I came up with!

The rectangle concrete pieces just seemed to fit a more modern shape, and I love the results!  

It's also suprisingly sturdy (that landscape adhesive is the real deal) and very heavy - great if you live in a windy area.  

I put together a quick video of all the steps - check it out below for more details:

 

 

A couple of suggestions to make building yours easier

  • - Measure your blocks first, and build the openings about 1/4" bigger to allow for the landscape adhesive and for the blocks to slide in place.
  • - Use your Kreg Jig (if you have one) for joints, it will hide all screw holes
  • - Stain your wood before adding the concrete in place
  • - For exterior application, use treated or other exterior grade wood, and use an exterior stain or paint and top coat

 

 

 

 

 

Dimensions
modern paver planter concrete
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - 8x16x2 concrete top caps
  • 3 - 2x2 @ feet long (cedar or outdoor treated perferred for exterior use)
  • 2 -1/2" exterior deck screws or pocket hole screws (depending on joinery type)
  • Landscape adhesive suitable for concrete block and wood 
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 23-3/4" (legs)
  • 8 - 2x2 @ 15-3/4" (cut to fit length of blocks, cut a little long to allow blocks to fit in)

NOTE: Measure your blocks first and adjust to give enough room for blocks to slide in place - about 1/8"- 1/4" will be enough

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the two side frames, either with 2-1/2" deck screws predrilled and glue or set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2" stock and drill pocket holes, and attach with 2-1/2" exterior pocket hole screws.

The top 2x2 needs to be set down the distance to match the width of your blocks.

Step 2

Tie the two sides together with more 2x2s, joining in the same manner as you did in step 1.

Step 3

Repeat steps to add support inside - you can add additional 2x2s here too.

Step 4

Apply landscape adhesive to wood and slide blocks in place. Use a rachet strap or rope to tie entire project together, and allow to set overnight for landscape adhesive to cure (follow directions with landscape adhesive).

When complete, use landscape fabric to line inside of planter, add soil and plants, and enjoy!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Lady Goats

Wed, 04/15/2015 - 11:05

Is there really still snow there? Brrr! We just poured a quikrete walk maker patio, and now I need to think of things to FILL it! Love the look of all of these (but yours hits the right note for me!). We should do like... wood and concrete paver TABLES!!??!!

Corporate Carpenter

Fri, 06/12/2015 - 15:08

Since 2x2x8's are actually 1.5x1.5, I don't see how the 2" concrete caps can fit flush in the frame and make a perfect square when they're 0.5" thicker. This means they should be bulging out of the wood frame by half an inch to clear the corners. Are you using 2x2's that are truly 2" by 2" thick?

patriciatruel

Thu, 06/11/2020 - 17:48

Hello Ana. Im brand new to registering, but I have been following you for years and i Love your stuff!

On the concrete planters, in regard to the shopping list, (i am assuming they 2x2’s are 8ft) but, there’s no mention to the length of the 2x2. Just thought I would let you know. Thanks.

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!