Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 02/21/2014 - 10:09
Difficulty
Intermediate
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tutorial for industrial pipe bed from Ana-White.com

Happy Friday Folks!

I can't tell you how excited today to share these brand spanking hot off the press plans with you today!!!

My dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wanted to collaborate on a industrial style bed for her son's room, so we hatched a plan involving screw together iron pipes and wood slats.  And this is what Jaime came up with!

What could be better than a bed made of iron pipes?  Why one with some wood mixed in too!

This is truly a one-of-a-kind unique piece, that you can only get by DIY-ing!

Are you smitten or what???

Jaime has been so generous to share these plans with you below - seriously, this one really is all her and her step by step instructions are meticulously detailed - so please, take a sec to stop over and check out her building post and say THANK YOU for this awesome tute!  

Thanks Jaime!!!

Plans follow!

Have a great weekend.  XO Ana + FAM

Dimensions
Pipe & wood slat twin bed Overall dimensions: 45”h x 79”l x 41 ½”w Headboard: 45”h x 41 ½”w Footboard: 35”h x 41 ½”w Floor clearance: 10”

Preparation

Shopping List

Shopping List
2 – 1x8x8 pine boards
1 – 1x8x6 pine board
2 – 2x4x8 studs
8 – 1x3x8 furring strips
2” wood screws
1 ½” wood screws

ALL GALVANIZED STEEL:
*2 – 1” pipe @ 75”l
*4 – 1” pipe @ 18”l
5 – ¾” pipe @ 36”l
14 – 1” nipple @ 8”l
4 – 1” close nipple
14 – 1” threaded tee
4 – 1” 90 degree elbow
4 – 1” x 1 ¼” coupling (feet)
2 – 1” threaded coupling
10 – 1” x ¾” bushing
20 – 1” split ring pipe hanger
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cramik-Enterprises-1-in-Galvanized-Split-Rin…
*cut to length and threaded at hardware store

Cut List

WOOD CUT LIST
5 – 1x8 @ 37 ¾”l (wood slats)
2 – 2x4 @ 74”l (platform supports)
16 – 1x3 furring @ 41 ¼”l (mattress supports)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Notes: No glue was used on any pipes or pipe-to-wood connections. Only hand tighten until your are confident of pipe placement, it took me multiple tries to get it all connected just right – lots of screwing and unscrewing to figure out the proper connections - but that’s the beauty of working with pipe.

The most difficult portion will be connecting the siderails to the footboard and headboard since the pipe screws together in the same direction on both ends (if you’re screwing in one end essentially you are unscrewing the other end simultaneously). Follow the step by step instructions carefully.

Step 2

Build only one leg of the footboard as shown by screwing the pieces together until snug.

Step 3

Prepare horizontal pipe support pieces as shown.

Step 4

Prepare ONLY the foot portion of the other leg (1 x ¼ coupling, 1” x 8” nipple and 1” threaded tee) and connect 1” x 75”l pipe to this foot portion only.

Step 5

Step 6

Prepare wood slats. Predrill 1 ½” from outer edge for 2 split ring pipe hangers.

Step 7

Attach pipe hangers using 2” wood screws, be sure hanger is perpendicular to wood board

Step 8

On the footboard slip one end of wood slat into completed leg side of footboard then with other end of wood slat in place screw in the next 1” x 8” nipple pipe piece. DO NOT TIGHTEN PIPE HANGERS YET.

Step 9

Screw on next tee piece then screw next ¾” horizontal support pipe piece:

• Tip: screw horizontal pipe all the way into the completed leg side first then connect to other leg. It’s a give and take with the horizontal pipes and bushing pieces because they all screw in the same direction, eventually they will get tight just keep working back and forth from one side to the other.

• The paper towel wrapped around the joint is preventing oil from dripping onto the floor. (The ¾” x 36” pipe is a stock item but my Home Depot was out at the time therefore I had to have those pieces cut, when they cut the pipe they use a thick dark oil which seeps a bit once settled.)

Step 10

Center wood slat between horizontal pipes with even spacing on both top and bottom then secure pipe hangers to pipes with equal pressure on both screws.

Step 11

Prepare the next wood slat and repeat the process adding another 1” x 8” nipple. On top of the nipple screw in one 90 degree elbow. On the open end of the elbow screw in one 18” piece of 1” pipe and on the completed leg side screw in the other 18” pipe with a coupling. Tighten the pipe hangers and screw together the middle portion of the coupling and pipe.

(headboard pictured above but we’re finishing the footboard)

REPEAT steps 8 – 11 for the headboard.

Step 12

Build the mattress platform. Attach cross supports to studs using countersink and 1 ½” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

DecorSanity

Sun, 02/23/2014 - 10:07

Wow, I am super impressed Jaime & Anna. A lot of times we do knock-offs, which is awesome because the pieces are classic, but you've come up with something totally original and awesome! I love the combo of the pipe and the warm wood. It looks stunning on that wood floor Jaime. Great job!!

Carpenters_Daughter

Thu, 08/28/2014 - 22:19

This look is awesome! This is totally outside of the box for me. My husband and I want to adapt it to make a futon that converts to a bed for our craft/guest room. Any ideas on how we can make this work?

babcockam

Fri, 10/17/2014 - 10:06

I Love this bed! I would like to make 2 of them for a couple teenage boys. Can you tell me the rough cost for 1?

 

Thank you!

daemon82

Thu, 09/10/2015 - 17:21

We were really interested in building this project, but we priced it out at our local hardware store and it came to around $300. It's really cool looking, but I don't think we'll end up doing it.

Jethro

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 11:09

Apologies for coopting this post, but I think it's useful information:  if anyone wants the parts or a lit for this project, I have them.  And I'll customize to suit your requirements too.  BEST OF ALL, my pipe is already cleaned and painted. 

Jethro

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 11:13

Would anybody like a kit for this?  I have a little store that sells already cleaned and painted iron pipe parts (at about the same price as the big box guys sell their nasty greasy stuff), and I'm wondering if anyone would like to see this project turned into a kit?

swanwhitecurtain

Fri, 02/23/2018 - 13:24

To cut down cost, instead of buying 1" tee fittings and then 1"x3/4" bushings to accomodate the 3/4" horizontal pipes, could you buy 1" tee fittings that reduce to 3/4" in the center? Would that be any different?