Rustic X Coffee Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 07/09/2019 - 10:40
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You can build a beautiful coffee table out of lumber!  For about $50 in materials, this solid wood coffee table with it's X detailing could be yours.  Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping lists and cut list - everything you need to get started.

Also in this collection: Rustic X Console Table, Rustic X End Table, and Rustic X Bench Plans

rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans

Beginner Friendly Option

With the popularity of this plan, we have created a Beginner Friendly plan that is very similar.  It uses less tools and the overall cost is under $40.

farmhouse coffee table

The beginner plan is slightly smaller and has a slatted bottom shelf.  You can find the plans here.

Rustic X Coffee Table Plans

Remember a bit back when Hillary  from The Friendly Home built this amazing Rustic X Console Table from 2x4s? 

We've had so much interest from readers, we thought we'd add a coffee table plan to the collection.  

This coffee table is so gorgeous, it's hard to believe it's made from standard off the shelf lumber!

I ENCOURAGE you to stop over and visit Hillary and read about how she battled a wild fire to build this coffee table!  

PS - Hillary is also sharing her finishing tutorial.

rustic x coffee table dimensions
Dimensions are shown above


Shopping List
  • 2 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length
  • 4 – 2x2 – 8 feet
  • 1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
  • 5 – 2x6 – stud length
  • 1 ¼” and 2 ½” Pocket Hole screws
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 41” (side trim)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 22 ½” (end trim)
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 41” (bottom shelf)
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)
  • 5 – 2x6 @ 52” (tabletop boards)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First build the two side trim pieces.

Step 2

Then connect together. Hide top pocket holes on top, bottom pocket holes on bottom. NOTE: This plan is sized for 1x12 boards measuring 11 1/4" wide - measure your 1x12 boards, double that number, and cut your side trim to fit - see next step.

Step 3

Build your bottom shelf with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws down center. Then drill 3/4" PHs around all outside edges and attach to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Now attach cut and build the X braces. Attach in place. These are mostly decorative, so don't stress about getting them super screwed in place. Some good glue and screws will do the trick.

Step 5

For the top, we recommend building the entire top with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws on a flat level surface.

Then attached the completed top to the base.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


In reply to by cnads


Wed, 04/24/2013 - 04:59

I'm sure you don't need this anymore but when I ran into this problem, I found the below link and it worked. I think it took about 2/3 days and was not perfect but was very improved. I seem to run into this problem with 2x2's from Lowes. I went to the mom and pop lumber yard yesterday and just about passed out when I was told the total to make this table. I will not be going back there for anything except 2x2's because everyone they had was perfect.

Good luck!


Wed, 04/24/2013 - 04:54

How did everyone make the 60 degree cut? My miter saw does not go that far. I know I can "eye", cut and test until I get it to fit but was wondering if someone on here had a easier way to make the X's.

P.S. so far this is crazy easy to build. I hate to say that having to still cut the X's. NOTE: You WILL need 3 2x2's to make this.

In reply to by jbayer80

Lady Goats

Wed, 04/24/2013 - 09:25

I think what people are doing is placing the boards against the wood at the angles they'll go, scribing with a pencil and then angling the wood/blade to match the cut. I saw one blogger do it that way, anyhow. What I have done to get a cut that excels my miter saw's angles is to place my board at a 90 to the blade (needed two people to do this - couldn't support the board and make the cut - but I was also doing a 6' long board so you may be able to get away with this) and then do the math to get it to the proper angle. Ok, I make no sense. In this case, if you put the board at a 90 to the saw, you would set your miter saw at 30 degrees. Depending on your saw and the board you're cutting, this may not be safe. Another option would be to use a protractor to mark the 60 degree cut and cut it with a circular saw.


Mon, 04/29/2013 - 22:04

Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the decorative bolts and the corner brackets in black or any decorative type of color.

Angel Rose

Thu, 06/27/2013 - 14:01

This darn X gets me every time. I tried it with the X bench . . . couldn't get it. Just kept it off . . . . It is getting me again. I modified the size to fit my living room. The whole darn thing is built . . . . minus the dastardly X. So my first question for any math minded people is how do I get the right measurement for my cuts. My second hang up is that my cool miter saw doesn't go to 60 degrees so I will have to do it by hand . . . . :S

But REALLY need help just figuring out how to measure the length . . . is it the measurement from corner to corner long end or short end . . . . or something entirely different. HELP!


Sat, 08/03/2013 - 05:47

Mine ended up not even being a 60 degree angle. I just got a level and put it corner to corner for the x part, got my measurements, and cut it. I think for the solid 2x2 that goes on the x part, my angle was like 26 degrees (both cuts are the same way). And the cut is corner to corner, long to long. After that, the others are simple. Hope this helps

Angel Rose

Sat, 08/03/2013 - 13:20

can you give me a few more details? How did you find the angle on the solid 2x2? I have gone through quite a few 2x2s with the wrong measurements . . .:S You said you measured long end to long end . . .

AHHHHHH so frustrated with this part :(


Sat, 08/03/2013 - 13:58

Measure corner to corner. Then cut ur 2x2 at that length. Then cut both ends off at a 26 degree angle. Might have to trim some off but that should do it for the long piece. Let me know if it doesn't and maybe I can do some step by step pics and email them to u!


Wed, 07/31/2013 - 18:59

Had to have 3 2x2's instead of 2. So I would definitely suggest doing the same if you plan to do this project. But instructions were very clear and mine turned out awesome! Stain is drying tonight and will post pics tomm! Planning on building the end tables soon!!