Rustic X Coffee Table

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/09/2012 - 10:40
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a rustic X coffee table with free easy plans from Ana-White.com

Hey hey!

Happy Monday!

Thanks so much with your patience with the site this morning.  We are growing (it's a good thing!) and are due for a server upgrade, but ALWAYS know keeping the site up and running fast is super important to me, and we are working very hard to improve the user experience of this site.  What can I say?  I APPRECIATE you each and every time you visit, and want to make sure each time you visit is pleasant for you.  Thank you!

We have started working again at the Momplex!  So this week, I will start posting about our progress up there!  I also owe you some Alaska stuff too :)  Cause you ARE going to come visit, right?  

But today, I just couldn't wait to share a new plan with you!

Remember a bit back when <the super amazing> Hillary built this amazing Rustic X Console Table from 2x4s? 

Yup, 2x4s!  And some Hillary magic.

Well, after 22,000 of YOU <hey, thanks!> pinned the console table, of course we HAD to put together coffee table plans for you!

And man is she beautiful!

I ENCOURAGE you to stop over and visit Hillary and read about how she battled a wild fire to build this coffee table!  Thanks Hillary!

PS - Hillary is also be sharing her finishing tutorial and <gasp!> an end table plan!!!!  Can't wait!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length
4 – 2x2 – 8 feet
1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
5 – 2x6 – stud length
1 ¼” and 2 ½” PH screws

Cut List

4 – 2x4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
4 – 2x2 @ 41” (side trim)
4 – 2x4 @ 22 ½” (end trim)
2 – 1x12 @ 41” (bottom shelf)
2 – 2x2 @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)
5 – 2x6 @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First build the two side trim pieces.

Step 2

Then connect together. Hide top pocket holes on top, bottom pocket holes on bottom. NOTE: This plan is sized for 1x12 boards measuring 11 1/4" wide - measure your 1x12 boards, double that number, and cut your side trim to fit - see next step.

Step 3

Build your bottom shelf with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws down center. Then drill 3/4" PHs around all outside edges and attach to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Now attach cut and build the X braces. Attach in place. These are mostly decorative, so don't stress about getting them super screwed in place. Some good glue and screws will do the trick.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

In reply to by jbayer80

Lady Goats

Wed, 04/24/2013 - 09:25

I think what people are doing is placing the boards against the wood at the angles they'll go, scribing with a pencil and then angling the wood/blade to match the cut. I saw one blogger do it that way, anyhow. What I have done to get a cut that excels my miter saw's angles is to place my board at a 90 to the blade (needed two people to do this - couldn't support the board and make the cut - but I was also doing a 6' long board so you may be able to get away with this) and then do the math to get it to the proper angle. Ok, I make no sense. In this case, if you put the board at a 90 to the saw, you would set your miter saw at 30 degrees. Depending on your saw and the board you're cutting, this may not be safe. Another option would be to use a protractor to mark the 60 degree cut and cut it with a circular saw.

mainman38

Mon, 04/29/2013 - 22:04

Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the decorative bolts and the corner brackets in black or any decorative type of color.

Angel Rose

Thu, 06/27/2013 - 14:01

This darn X gets me every time. I tried it with the X bench . . . couldn't get it. Just kept it off . . . . It is getting me again. I modified the size to fit my living room. The whole darn thing is built . . . . minus the dastardly X. So my first question for any math minded people is how do I get the right measurement for my cuts. My second hang up is that my cool miter saw doesn't go to 60 degrees so I will have to do it by hand . . . . :S

But REALLY need help just figuring out how to measure the length . . . is it the measurement from corner to corner long end or short end . . . . or something entirely different. HELP!

JRuth09

Sat, 08/03/2013 - 05:47

Mine ended up not even being a 60 degree angle. I just got a level and put it corner to corner for the x part, got my measurements, and cut it. I think for the solid 2x2 that goes on the x part, my angle was like 26 degrees (both cuts are the same way). And the cut is corner to corner, long to long. After that, the others are simple. Hope this helps

Angel Rose

Sat, 08/03/2013 - 13:20

can you give me a few more details? How did you find the angle on the solid 2x2? I have gone through quite a few 2x2s with the wrong measurements . . .:S You said you measured long end to long end . . .

AHHHHHH so frustrated with this part :(

JRuth09

Sat, 08/03/2013 - 13:58

Measure corner to corner. Then cut ur 2x2 at that length. Then cut both ends off at a 26 degree angle. Might have to trim some off but that should do it for the long piece. Let me know if it doesn't and maybe I can do some step by step pics and email them to u!

JRuth09

Wed, 07/31/2013 - 18:59

Had to have 3 2x2's instead of 2. So I would definitely suggest doing the same if you plan to do this project. But instructions were very clear and mine turned out awesome! Stain is drying tonight and will post pics tomm! Planning on building the end tables soon!!

j13913r

Thu, 08/29/2013 - 12:35

First, I'm new to the site and I love it. I just got the kreg jig and I'm looking to familiarize myself with it tomorrow, however, is there a more detailed instructions on how to build this? I feel like it's hard to understand where to put the pilot holes, how to secure the 1x12's together or to the base.

Thanks again!

Justin

Lindelium18

Thu, 09/12/2013 - 05:47

I'm going to build this table this weekend. That being said, I'd like to address a few of the comments left by others.
1) you do need 3-2x2's. At first I didn't think you did but then I realized you needed 4 of the long pieces. So, yes, you will need 3 of the 2x2's.

2)if your saw does not go to 60 degrees, use a shim. Set your saw to the 45 degree setting. Then, instead of putting your board directly against the back wall of the saw, you will need a shim or spacer in there. If you make a shim, it should be 3-3/4" long, 1" thick and taper down to zero. Or, you can take a 1" thick piece of lumber and put it against the wall of the saw. Then, clamp your piece you're cutting against that and the back wall. This will give you a 15 degree angle plus your saw is 45 degrees so this will equal a 60 degree cut. Make sure all of your lumber is on the same side as the blade.
EDIT: I still ran into an issue of my 10" Miter not cutting deep enough with this shim in there. This one might just be easier with a line drawn and a circular saw...your choice.

3) As for the strength of the bottom shelf, I'm not overly confident it will be super strong... I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but here are a few suggestions:
A) glue the seam together and use a couple of clamps to hold it tight over night. Pocket screws won't hurt here either, but the glue will actually hold pretty well as long as its clamped tight and the entire area was covered in glue very well.
B) buy a sheet of plywood instead of the 1x12's. all the edges are covered by your trim pieces, so you won't have to worry about hiding the edge. If looks are important, get a piece of plywood with a veneer top that you like.
EDIT: this is what I choose. It was much easier than the other alternatives.

C) buy 2 of the 8' 1x12's and stack them. This is probably the most complicated and probably over-kill, but it'll definitely be strong. Instead of 2- 1x12's cut 41" you will cut 4 of them. Then, take of of them, and cut it in half, long ways. You should then have 3- 1x12's 41" long and 2- 1x6's 41" long. Take your first 2 1x12's and place them together on a flat surface. Then, take your third 1x12 and stack it right in the middle, like a pyramid. Finally, place your 2-1x6's on the left and right. Every seam gets glued along with the bottom boards getting glued to the tops ones. Clamp it all together and let it set over night. This will take a lot of time, effort, glue and clamps, but essentially what your are creating is a 2x24" board, and it'll be solid!

Also, it may be worth looking into the usual methods of mounting a table top. Since it is 5 separate pieces and not that big, it may not be a big deal; but lumber tends to shrink and expand with humidity. So, normally, tops are not screwed down, but rather, floated on with brackets. Just something to possibly look into.

If you've read this far, I applaud you. I may shoot a video of my build, but I haven't decided yet... Time will tell! :). Good luck!