Sawhorse Outdoor Table

sawhorse outdoor table
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Build your own stylish and substantial outdoor table!  This easy to build design features a modern sawhorse style base and a thick top.

Free step by step plans for outdoor table from, include lots of detailed diagrams. Build using 2x4s and 2x6s.

See also: Matching Sawhorse Outdoor Bench Plans

sawhorse outdoor table

Why We Built This Dining Table

We had dinner the other night over at our Aunt Sherry's on her deck, and she remarked that "Dining outside is one of her favorite things to do!" 

Do you love to dine outdoors too?

Do you have an outdoor table?  But they can be so darn expensive!

Unless ....

You DIY of course!

Check out this $85 outdoor dining table.


Build Post with More Construction Photos

I once again teamed up with Whitney from Shanty2Chic to get YOU plans to make this table yourself! I just LOVE how Whitney used a two-tone finish for the table!  Are you wondering how she stained that top?

Whitney has lots more details on how she built and finished this table right here, and lots more photos - so please take a second to stop over and check out her post.

Related Plans to Check Out - Matching Sawhorse Bench Plans

Want to build the benches too?  We've got the matching plans for you here.

outdoor dining bench plans

Click here for matching sawhorse bench plans


See Also: Beginner Friendly Outdoor Table for Small Spaces

Love this table, but want something simpler and for smaller spaces?  Check out this popular outdoor plan.


Free Plans for Outdoor Table with Sawhorse Base



sawhorse outdoor table
Dimensions are shown above


Shopping List
  • 9 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 7 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • - to frame the outside of the top, need 3 more 2x4x8s
Cut List
  • 8 - 2x6 @ 27 3/8" (long point to short point, both ends cut at 10 degrees BEVEL)
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 39 1/2" ( long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree BEVEL)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 7 7/8" (long point to long point both ends cut NOT parallel at 10 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 26"
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 88"
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 88" cross supports 34" long - both ends beveled - one at 40 and one at 50 (you may be able to get away with both at 45 to make things easier)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Attach legs to base supports with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2

Attach remaining legs to base support.

Step 3

Attach the angled stretchers between legs. Countersunk screws or pocket holes here.

Step 4

And then the straight stretcher between the angled legs, centering. You can use countersunk screws or pocket holes here.

Step 5

Lay the tabletop boards out flat.

Attach the sawhorses with 2-1/2" screws from underneath.

Step 6

Add your middle base support with screws and glue. If you've put everything together with pocket hole screws, no need to buy new screws - the 2 1/2" long ones will work here.

Step 7

And then the cross supports. If your saw doesn't do 50 degree bevels, you may be able to get away with a 45, and just alter the position of the cross support on the stretcher/underside of the table.

Step 8

Whitney added the 2x4 frame around the table for additional support - I love the way it looks! Just cut boards to length and attach.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Angie Overton

Fri, 05/31/2013 - 14:23

I LOVE this table. And I love the cost too. I saw it over on Shanty 2 Chic. Your plans make it look so easy to do. I do have a question about step 5 though. With the shims in place... do you use the pocket hole screws to attach them to each other? Or is it the cross pieces that are holding them together? I know this is simple... I just cant seem to picture it.
And what did you mean by ditching the 2x4 in that step?

Lady Goats

Fri, 05/31/2013 - 15:19

If you space the boards 1/2" apart, you can use one less 2x4 for the top. I'm not sure what you mean about the shims? I didn't head over to shanty2chic's site yet, but I wouldn't use pocket holes with shims (you'd be able to see the screws).

Natascha Ribeiro

Mon, 06/03/2013 - 07:41

Hi Ana!! i was searching trough the internet (sorry for my horrible english)...and i found your website...i just paid someone to make me a simple door...and cost me 1.400, the cheapest here cost around $80... everything that's handmade is too expensive...people here buy tables made out of metal and some type of stone on top...but still not cheap at all...i live at a farm and i love hand works...and your website is an inspiration!!! keep doing this amazing work you have an amazing gift!!!
Best regards from Brazil


Mon, 06/10/2013 - 11:45

I am planning to build this table very soon, but I am having an issue. I plan to shorten the table to 5' and I am having trouble figuring out the new length and angles needed for the ( 2 ) Cross braces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can do the math and determine the angle, but I need the length of the opposite side of the triangle. By my calculations the adjacent side would be 15" long. If I know the length of the opposite side I can determine the length and angle of the hypotenuse side... Sorry I feel like I am asking everyone to go back to algebra class.


Sun, 07/07/2013 - 10:58

To make this table seat 8 would any additional supports be needed underneath or can I just use longer boards. At 3 feet per seat I need it 9 feet long.



Thu, 05/15/2014 - 17:49

hi ana

Love the site and projects are so simple. Question on the edge around this table though, would it work better with a 45 degree cut to square each corner? Or just cut them flush for a square corner?



Fri, 03/27/2015 - 16:31

Will the dimensional lumber (white wood) available at big box stores (Menards, Lowes, HD) work outdoors in all the elements (snow, rain, sun)? I was under the impression that this type of wood will rot / fungus / etc. very easily, even if you stain with wood protector.

If you use Cedar (which is an excellent choice for outdoor furniture), the cost will triple. Any other options.


Fri, 04/03/2015 - 16:18

I would like to know if we need pressure treated wood or is white kiln dry wood ok for screened in porch in North Carolina climate
Thank you very much and the ideas are great