Simple Bed [Full Size Bed Frame]

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 07/18/2019 - 15:24
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Build your own full size bed and save up to 90%!

This beautiful full size bed is solid wood, made from standard 2x4s and other dimensional lumber. It is cleverly put together with just basic woodworking tools. This rustic design can work in both a girls or boys room.  Step by step plans include diagrams and shopping and cut list.  Anyone can build it!

We also have this bed plan available in a twin size version.

full size bed in mission style - plans by Ana White

Reader submitted photo by RLSAVARD 


Full Size Bed Plans

You can build your own full size bed and save a ton of money!  Our readers are spending under $100 on the bed WITH the bed frame (no box spring required).  We love that this bed is solid wood, so you can paint or stain it any color you choose. 

It's a solid, sturdy design, so it will last as long as you need it too.  This bed is perfect in a kids room or guest room. You don't need a box springs, and it fits a standard full size mattress.

Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list and more!

If you build, please share a photo or two in a brag post.  It is most helpful and very exciting to see brag photos by you.

dimensions diagram for full size bed mission style plans
Simple Bed full size suitable for 75" x 54" mattress


Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 - 1x3 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long (cut both headboard posts from this board)
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long (cut both footboard posts from this board)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 1 - 1/4" long brad nails (a couple hundred)
  • 16 - 5" long self tapping wood screws OR 2-1/2" pocket hole screws if you have a Kreg Jig
  • 50 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
Cut List


  • 2 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 30"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 45"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"


  • 3 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 22"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 30-1/2"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"


  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 51" - center support, top
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 70-75" - measure and cut to fit - center support, middle
  • 2 - 2x6 @ ~75" - measure and cut to fit for best fit
  • 13 - 1x3 @ 23 - 3/4" - shorter slats 
  • 14 - 1x3 @ 31-3/4" - longer slats
Cutting Instructions

Cut longest boards first.

Preferred method of cutting is a miter saw or chop saw or similar.

You can also substitute a circular saw, but use a straight edge or guide to help you cut square cuts.

DO NOT cut tiny pieces - instead, cut tiny pieces from a larger piece, so you can safely clamp the board while cutting.

The 4x4s will require a larger saw to cut.  If you do not have a larger saw, flip the 4x4 over and cut from the back side to finish the cut.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

With many beds, you may wish to prefinish the headboard, footboard and siderails before assembly.  Then you can move into the room for final assembly and not have to paint or stain in the room.


Step 1

Layout the pieces for the headboard panel.  Cut the end pieces to fit.

Glue and nail together with 1-1/4" brad nails.

NOTE: If you are using a Kreg Jig to join the panel to the legs in Step 2, carefully place nails so you can drill pocket holes (see next step) on the end 1x6 boards marked 4-1/4" long.

Step 2

Attach panel to the legs with either pocket holes (preferred) or 5" self tapping wood screws and glue.

Step 3

Attach 2x6 header with 2-1/2" screws and glue to the top of the headboard.

Step 4

Repeat steps to build footboard.

Add additional 1x6 trim to the inside of the footboard as this will be exposed in the final product.  Nail on with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 5

Cut cleats and attach to footboard, flush to bottom of 1x6 panel.  

Then attach to headboard legs.  Spacer blocks from scrap wood can help elevate the cleats while you work (or use clamps).

Step 6

Since this bed is a full size, center support is recommended.

Attach a 2x4 close to the top with 2-1/2" screws, two per joint.

Step 7

Add siderails to the cleats.

Step 8

Measure and cut the center support.  Place as shown in the bed (this is done offset to conserve wood when cutting the slats)

Step 9

Cut slats and lay in bed.  You can nail down (will be harder to remove later) or screw down (screws take longer to install and are more expensive but will be easier to remove).  Use a 1-1/4" to 2" long fastener.  Do not use glue as it will be impossible to disassemble without damaging the bed. 

To conserve fastners and time, I often will just nail the sides down and leave the center floating on the slats.


Kensey (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 13:42

Do you have any suggestions or pointers for staining it after filling in the screw holes with putty? It just seems like they are way noticeable.

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 06:59

What you will need to do is either buy a good stainable wood filler, or use stain matched wood filler after you stain. Another options is to use wood plugs.

kirstin & jordan (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 19:33

This is FABULOUS! We are needing to move our little one from a crib to a big boy bed, and this might be just the ticket.
We have a Friday Fun Find party (on Fridays, of course) and would love it if you'd link to this!

Rachel (not verified)

Sun, 02/21/2010 - 07:13

Wonderful. We have been waiting for this. Thank you so much. We actually want to do your "Simple Bunk Beds", but with the full on the bottom of the twin. I am wondering if the process is the same for build and attach. Wondering if you can suggest how to modify the ladder to work with the full underneith. Just wanted to check before I get started.

Callie (not verified)

Mon, 02/22/2010 - 10:50

Do you have the materials list for this project? I see the cut list--but I would like a list to go into the store with--so I don't forget anything :)! You are awesome, by the way!

Ashley (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 05:27

Hi! I'm looking at putting a trundle under this bed, and I'm just wondering if I need to adjust the height to fit a trundle made of 1x8s (your plan Ana) under it or not. From the diagram it looks like the header leaves 10" clearance under the bed, but I'm new to building things so I just wanted to double check before I buy the materials to build it. Thanks!

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 06:21

You could use a 1x10 for the sides of the trundle, but the clearance is going to be very very tight (especially with caster wheels on). I would add just maybe an 1" to the legs on the daybed.

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