Simple Sideboard with Open Shelves and Drawers

white sideboard plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build your own simple sideboard from Ana-White.com  Features adjustable shelves and four drawers, detailed plans with diagrams, shopping and cut list.

My teenage daughter Grace has been asking for more storage in her bathroom for a couple years now.  If you wait long enough, they get old enough, and smart enough, to design it themselves .... yes, she did.  She went on Shelf Help, designed what she wanted, the pieces showed up in my shop, and then I built it:

It took me a day, working a few hours in the morning and most of the afternoon, to finish this project. It is quite big, and there's alot of drawers - which aren't hard, but do take time.

Where to Use This Sideboard

We used this project for storage in a bathroom, but it could be used in many different rooms in the home:

  • Sideboard in a dining room, store wine glasses, decorative serving ware, or baskets with dining linens
  • Entryway Console dropzone, empty shelves could hold shoes or baskets with accessories
  • Media Console in the living room to support a TV system
  • Dresser in a bedroom or closet, the open shelves could be used for folded clothing or shoes

 

Customizing the Size or Functions? 

This project is easy to customize in size!  Use our free Shelf Help Configurator to change up your carcass size in just a few clicks!

furniture design software

You can also change up what bay you put the drawers in, or do drawers only on the top row, and open shelves below.  This project is super easy to customize - it's all up to you and what you need!

 

Free Plans for this Sideboard

The plans for this sideboard follow.  Please share a photo if you build it, we'd love to see how your project turned out!

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Simple Sideboard with Open Shelves and Drawers

Dimensions
white sideboard dimensions
Dimensions shown in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 Sheets of 3/4" thick plywood and edge banding OR Shelf Help Carcass Kit
  • 1 sheet of 1/4" plywood for back and drawer bottoms
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 2 feet long
  • 4 sets of 14" full extension drawer slides (affiliate link to Amazon)
  • About 100 - 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4" and 3/4" brad nails
  • wood glue
  • 4 knobs or pulls
  • primer and paint or desired wood finishing supplies
Cut List

Shelf Help Carcass Kit or 3/4" plywood panels, cut into pieces as noted below, front edge finished with edge banding

  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 72"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 35-1/4"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 70-1/2"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 31"

 

Carcass Trim

  • 2 - 1x4 @ 23" (bay supports, upper)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 70-1/2" (bay supports, lower)
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 23" (drawer seperators)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 34" x 72" (cut 34" instead of 36" so you can get the drawer bottoms out of the scrap wood)

 

Drawers

  • 6 - 1x4 @ 14" (drawer sides)
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 14" (drawer sides)
  • 6 - 1x4 @ about 20-1/2" - measure and cut to fit (drawer front and back)
  • 2 - 1x8 @ about 20-1/2" - measure and cut to fit (drawer front and back)
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 22-3/4" - (drawer faces)
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 22-3/4" (drawer face)
  • 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 14" x 22" (drawer bottoms) - cut the back for the project first, and then cut the drawer bottoms from the leftover plywood
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build the carcass, starting from the sides attached to the top, then the bottom attached to the sides, and finally the dividers attached to the top and bottom.  The shelves can be made fixed or adjustable with shelf pin holes.

Use three 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws for each joint.

Step 2

Add bay supports along the top, and at the front and back of the bottom, with pocket holes hidden on the back side.  Use two 3/4" pocket holes on each end, and then pocket holes facing upward to further secure.

For the top bay supports, I found they made the space too small for the 14" drawer slides, so did not put a bay support in the center bay.  If you want drawers all across the top, use 12" drawer slides, and keep the bay supports all across the top.

Step 3

Attach 1x2 drawer trim as shown, with pocket holes on undersides.

Step 4

Install the drawer members of the drawer slides on the 14" drawer side pieces, so the drawer slide is centered of the drawer side.

Position the drawer side in the opening and mark approximately where the center of the drawer slide should be mounted inside the cabinet.  Also mark 7/8" in from the front.

Install the cabinet member of the drawer slide inside the cabinet.

Step 5

Measure in between the two drawer sides, and cut 1x boards to fit.  Drill two pocket holes on each end and attach to the drawer sides.

Step 6

Remove the drawers, measure the bottoms of the drawers, and cut the plywood bottoms to fit.  Attach with glue and 3/4" brad nails.

NOTE: Reserve back piece of plywood for back of cabinet.

Step 7

Cut the back piece for the cabinet.  If cutting at 34" to fit all the pieces on a single sheet, hold the back up from the floor.  Attach with glue and 3/4" brad nails.

TIP: Before attaching the back, mark with a pencil on the outside sides of the cabinet the location of the dividers.  Then you can pencil between your marks on the back when it is in place to know where to nail to.

Step 8

Attach the drawer faces to the front of the drawers with a couple of 1-1/4" brad nails.  Avoid location of hardware when nailing.

Pull the drawer open and further secure with a couple of pocket hole screws, used like regular screws here.  

Step 9

Drill holes for adjustable shelves (if desired) or install shelves fixed.

NOTE: I decided to cut 1" off the back of the shelves so they would sit inset and also not be in the way if I add doors later on.  This is optional.

Comments

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!