Turned Leg Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 06/04/2019 - 01:59
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a farmhouse table with turned legs! Free plans from Ana-White.com

Turned leg farmhouse table with bench
turned leg
tabletop
under table with farmhouse bench
table with bench

You have been asking for a Farmhouse Table with turned legs plan for years now. One of our kind readers, Patrick Hosey volunteered to build a farmhouse table with turned legs for you.  And he worked with Gabriel Gallant to create a video of the story behind building.  

This video was created by Gabriel Gallant with music by Patrick Hosey.  Thank you Gabe and Patrick for the beautiful video.

The beautiful table legs are contributed from Osbourne Wood.

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with turned legs
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - Portsmouth Large Dining Table Legs from Osbourne Wood

4 - 1x10 boards @ 8 feet long (save scraps to use for benches!)

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

 

Cut List

2 - 1x4 @ 24 1/2"

2 - 1x4 @ 66"

2 - 1x3 @ 30 1/2"

4 - 1x10 @ 78" Angle supports cut from scraps

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build your tabletop first. Set aside on a flat level surface to let dry.

Step 2

Next, build your end aprons/leg pieces.

Step 3

And then simply connect with side aprons.

Step 4

Add center supports.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Comments

In reply to by Sugarman (not verified)

patrickhosey

Thu, 10/11/2012 - 09:58

You can use furniture grade plywood no problem. You just have to mask off the edges. It's totally up to you but I would avoid using edge banding on a table top. It would just be super cheesy. Again that's your choice though. You can totally use a dowel jig to do the same thing I did using the tenon jig. If you have a kreg jig then you can mix the two as well. If not, you'll need some long clamps.

Sugarman (not verified)

Thu, 10/11/2012 - 17:24

I plan on putting some kind of molding on the edges. i have a nailgun and compressor so it will be a cinch. I also have a kreg pocket hole jig. It is a great tool. Pocket hole versus dowel, which would you recommend? Also your table is 8 feet long. Do I have to modify the plans at all to go to 10 feet? Maybe add another crosspiece?

Sugarman (not verified)

Thu, 10/11/2012 - 17:36

Also any recommendations for the wood I use? Oak has a bolder grain which doesn't really work because i am going for a more refined look. I mostly work with maple. That should be fine, no?

claydowling

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 04:55

If you are looking for a 10' table top, you'll probably have trouble using plywood for the top, since plywood longer than 8' is uncommon. Getting solid wood that long won't be a problem though.

The biggest problem for you using real wood is that you'll have to glue up the top, which means you'll be using a hand plane to flatten it. That's very easy to do with some basic tools. The Mastering Hand Tools DVD has a good section on how to do it.

I'm working on a big project with maple, and I can tell you that it's miserable to plane to get a smooth surface. Oak is hard but it's a lot easier to work than the hard maple I've been using. One of the reasons for the popularity of cherry and walnut is that it's easier to work.