Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 10/03/2019 - 13:59
Difficulty
Intermediate
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The best workbench you can build!  This workbench features a miter saw stand, with roll away carts to hold all your tools and create work spaces.  It's easy to customize, and the best part, it all rolls away when done!  

Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

roll away workbench with miter saw stand
workbench without carts
workbench with carts
workbench with one cart out
workbench with both carts removed

This is one of my most favorite workbenches I've ever designed and built!  

 

Miter Saw Stand

The base of this workbench is a miter saw stand -

But here's the big problem with a sliding miter saw: It needs 32" (or more depending on your saw) depth-wise to slide.  

So what to do with the space under the workbenches, that need to be 32" deep?  I knew 32" deep shelving would be a terrible idea, as stuff would just get lost back there (kitchen cabinets are 24" deep and that's about as deep as you want to go).

So instead of 32" deep shelving where stuff goes to die, I decided to put roll out carts that function as both storage and work surfaces.

And then when you are done working, they carts neatly tuck under the workbench, saving space in the garage and putting everything away

After designing, tweaking, redesiging, stressing over how to optimize materials to help you save money when building, and then more tweaking .... we built this!

It may look complicated, but I promise, this one is easy.  It is big, but it is not difficult to build, and you'll be amazed at how fast it comes together.

 

Customizing Tool Storage and the Carts

Once you have that perfect workbench built, it's time to start customizing it for your needs.  There's a spot for a vacuum under the circular saw, so you can manage your sawdust easier.

Then on one of the carts we cut out part of the top and attached a bench tool to this.  We did this for all the bench tools that needed a home.

So when you need a bench tool - like this Kreg Jig - all you have to do is slide it into the cut out, use it, and then store it.  The Kreg Jig piece is lightweight, so it stores upside down in the space.

How cool is that?

On the side of that cart, we added a clamp bar, so clamps are within easy reach, but always have a home to go back to.

On the second cart, we customized it to hold a table saw.  When not in use, it just is a flat surface, but when in use, the tablesaw deck is significantly larger and easier to work with.  The cut out area helps to contain the sawdust, and you have a nice place to store your table saw.

The second cart also functions as an outfeed table for your tablesaw.  This is especially handy when using the tablesaw by yourself.

We are so very proud of how this workbench turned out.  It is the result of many hours of consideration of how a home woodworking workshop is used, balanced with trying to minimize complexity and materials cost.  I wanted this project to be accessible to a new woodworker, but not be something they would outgrow as their skills increased.

We hope you love it as much as we do. 

 

 

 

Workbench with Roll Away Carts and Miter Saw Stand Plans

 

Dimensions
workbench dimensions
About 12 feet long and 32" deep - fits standard 12" sliding miter saw (be sure to measure yours first) Carts are counterheight, cutting surface is bar height.

Preparation

Shopping List

• 4 Sheets of 3/4” plywood

• 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood

• 8 – 3” casters with brakes

• 3/4” screws for attaching caster wheels

• 11 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

• 8 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long

• 3” self tapping wood screws

• 2” and 1-1/4” 18 gauge staples

• 4 handles for carts

Cut List

Workbench Cut List

• 6 – 2x4 @ 49”

• 4 – 2x4 @ 28”

• 8 – 2x4 @ 39-1/2”

• 2 – 1/4” plywood @ 39-1/2” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)

• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ 52-1/4” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)

• 4 – 2x4 @ 29-1/2”

• 2 – 2x4 @ width of saw (shown at 24”)

• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ width of saw x 31” (shown at 24”)

 

Cart Cut List

• 2 –3/4” plywood @ 48” x 30” (see plywood cutting diagrams)

• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 30” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)

• 24 – 1x2 @ 28”

• 8 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 28” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)

• 4 – 1/4” plywood @ 30” x 28-3/4”

• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 48” x 29-1/2” (see plywood cutting diagrams)

 

Cutting Instructions

Suggested Plywood Layouts for the Cuts

 

work bench cuts

 

plywood cuts for workbench

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Workbench Step 1: Build Workbench Frames

Attach using 3” wood screws and glue at corners. Check for square and adjust as needed.

Step 2

Workbench Step 2: Legs

Attach legs to frame with four 3” screws and glue. Check to make sure legs are installed square with the frame.

Step 3

Workbench Step 3: Bottom Support

Attach bottom support to back legs of bench, 4” from bottom of legs. Use 3” wood screws and glue.

Step 4

Workbench Step 4: Plywood Side

Use glue and 1-1/4” staples to attach ¼” plywood to side of workbench. Remember to plywood the outsides of the bench as shown in below diagram:

workbench plywood

Step 5

Workbench Step 5: Workbench Top

Attach workbench top to frame with 2” staples and wood glue.

Step 6

Miter Saw Shelf Step 1: Cleats

Measure the height of your miter saw deck. Add 3/4” to this measurement. Attach top cleats to sides of workbenches this measurement down from top of workbench. Cleats are flush to back, 1-1/2” less on front side. Use 3” screws.

Attach bottom shelf cleats with 4” space underneath.

Step 7

Miter Saw Shelf Step 2: Front Trim

Attach front trim to workbench legs and cleats with 3” screws.

Step 8

Miter Saw Shelf Step 3: Shelving

Place plywood shelving on cleats and attach with 1-1/4” staples and glue

Step 9

Cart Step 1: Caster Wheel Height

Measure the overall height of your caster wheels. Maximum clearance under workbench is 36” but some space should be left to allow cart to slide in. Cut list as shown is for casters with 3-3/4” clearance – adjust your cuts if your caster wheels are different heights.

Also double check the final location of your workbench for sloping garage floors and give extra room if in doubt.

Step 10

Cart Step 2: Cart Frame

Use 2” screws to attach cart front to cart shelf end with 1x2s. Build two of the cart frames.

Step 11

Cart Step 3: Shelves

Attach remaining 1x2s to shelves with 1-1/4” staples from underside. Then attach shelves inside cart frames with 2” screws or staples and glue.

TIP: Cut two 9” blocks of wood and use as spacers when placing shelves.

NOTE: Shelves can be placed at any height – customize to fit your needs and toolset.

Step 12

Cart Step 4: Shelf Backs

Attach backs to shelves with 1-1/4” staples and glue.

Step 13

Cart Step 5: Top and Bottom

Attach top and bottom to cart frame with 2” staples and glue

Step 14

Cart Step 6: Caster Wheels

Install caster wheels on bottom of carts with ¾” screws.

Step 15

Step 1: Benchtop Cutout

Use a circular saw or jigsaw to carefully cut out the top of the workbench cart, following back of shelves and cutting to depth needed for your bench top tools. Make sure you leave about 2” extra for adding the cleat in step 3.

Step 16

Step 2: Bench Top Cleats

Cut 1x2 cleats 1-1/2” less than the opening depth. Screw to the insides of the workbench cart, so the 1x2 top is flush with the bottom edge of the plywood workbench top.

Step 17

Step 3: Benchtop Tool Shelf

Attach a 1x2 cleat flat to 3/4” thick plywood cut to match the opening of the benchtop. Test fit and adjust if necessary.

Step 18

Step 4: Bench Top Tool

Attach Bench top tool to the removeable tabletop piece as recommended by the tool’s guide. Only lighter tools should be hung upside down. Additional cleats can be added inside cart for storing more benchtop tools.

Step 19

Step 5: Tablesaw Modification

Repeat steps as directed for benchtop tools, except custom cut tabletop out to fit your tablesaw, leaving enough room for the tablesaw fence, guides and accessories to freely move. Use cleats and ¾” plywood to create a shelf for the tablesaw. When installation is complete, the tablesaw deck should be slightly higher than the tabletop itself. Secure tabletop to shelf.

Comments

Alienz17

Tue, 03/10/2020 - 23:45

How hard was it? Also did you do the side where the clamps hang? I ddint really see that part in the plans but going to thoroughly go over them again. 

gmcnally

Wed, 04/01/2020 - 02:07

Hi sorry for the delayed response. It wasn't too bad to build. I modified the design slightly and built it onto my walls and I have also used some mdf instead of plywood in places as I had some already. Currently doing a fench cleat wall so I will post a brag post in a few weeks. I didn't bother with the clamp side. I just made it 2 shelves there for tools as I plan to put the clamps on the French cleat wall.

gmcnally

Wed, 04/01/2020 - 02:07

Hi sorry for the delayed response. It wasn't too bad to build. I modified the design slightly and built it onto my walls and I have also used some mdf instead of plywood in places as I had some already. Currently doing a fench cleat wall so I will post a brag post in a few weeks. I didn't bother with the clamp side. I just made it 2 shelves there for tools as I plan to put the clamps on the French cleat wall.

Alienz17

Tue, 03/10/2020 - 23:44

Hi. I plan on making this workbench as it seems to have everything I need. I was wondering about the side where the clamps hang. Didn't really see it in the plans. I wanted to know the depth of it and possibly turn it into hanging drills instead. Can you tell me how deep it is to see if it would work? Thanks. 

CarlySolberg

Sun, 04/26/2020 - 11:03

Ana,
You have so many excellent free plans, thank you so much for sharing! My husband and I are currently working on the workbench with the two roll away storage carts. It’s coming together really nicely. Our only issue we have run into is that our garage floor slopes about 2” over the course of the 12ft workbench and we are trying to figure out the best form of levelers to use for it. Shims, leveling legs...? Have any of your others followers run into this issue? What would you recommend for the best stability?

martha.handmade

Sat, 05/16/2020 - 09:00

Hi, I'd like to know what size table saw you have on the pic. I'm shopping for one but I'm a newbie so not sure which one I should get.

Many thanks 😁

mdp1989

Fri, 05/22/2020 - 19:29

Thank you so much for putting stuff like this up. Really helps me get in the mood and feel like I can build something cool. Without this, my bench would be 1 square box lol.

ianr

Sun, 06/14/2020 - 02:27

The instructions for the project say to use staples to attach the plywood but the tool list for the project lists a brad nailer that doesn't take staples. Any suggestions?

christie_co

Sun, 07/05/2020 - 22:05

Such great plans! This literally met every criteria I was looking to check - the miter saw table plus a table saw cart plus out-feed space for the table saw and maybe an area for my planer or router table. I am mid-way through construction and have a few observations and questions. Observations first: 1) instructions are very vague so it wasn't clear how many screws to use to attach bench top to the bench frame. I did a screw every 2" on the first bench and then every 4" on the second bench but am curious, what did everyone else do? 2) attaching the plywood side to the bench - this seemed unnecessary so I did not add this to the first bench but did on the second. Adding this pretty much removes any clamp space on the end of the bench so while it looks nice, if you want clamp space on either end of the bench then I recommend that you skip it (saves time and materials). Then there is the question of the staples - I had no 2" stapler so I used my brad nailer. A 2" plus brad nailer would have been longer than the leg depth as it's a 2X4 and you're nailing through through the 2"x side which is really 1.5". So I used 1" brad nails. This plywood side really seems cosmetic so not sure how well it will last but it does help the legs on the outer side of the bench stay in place. If you want to save time and materials and retain a clamp edge, then I would recommend skipping the plywood bench sides. 3) Bench height - this is really tall. I am 5'7" and it seems too tall. I think I will need to cut a few inches off all the legs to make it more usable. Yes I get this means the carts become shorter but you're making this massive workbench space that should be functional and if it's too tall to use, then I would rather make that a more functional height and have the carts a little shorter. 4) Attaching the miter saw - the plans say to add ¾" to the depth of your saw - just wondering why?? Wouldn't this make your saw cutting surface lower than the bench surface? 5) Rather than sanded ¾" plywood for tops you could use OSB. The sanded plywood is going to get scraped, scratched, and dented so maybe save some money and get OSB instead. 6) The carts - I haven't made these yet but am wondering how structural they are with no 2X4 support. Can anyone comment on this? Seems to just be plywood construction with the 1X2 to support shelving, so am curious how well this holds up and how well it supports a table saw or something heavy like planer?