Wall Corner Pie Cut Kitchen Cabinet

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Free plans to build a wall cabinet pie cut corner with double folding doors. This style gives better access to the corner countertop space and is easier to build than the angled door cabinet. Free plans from Ana-White.com

I promised you I'd get you a corner wall cabinet that didn't require a table saw that cuts rip bevel cuts. But even if you can do rip bevel cuts, you may love this pie cut corner wall cabinet more than the angled front one because it gives you easier access to the countertop area below (yahoo for tiny kitchens with limited countertop space) and the shelves are at most 11 3/4" deep, so stuff doesn't get lost in the back (maybe it's my short arms, but seriously, it's scary what I find when I clean out my super deep base corner cabinet!). And by stuff I of course mean questionably dated noodles and gadgets that looked like pure miracle makers in the packaging or on the tv infomercial ... to used once and stored forever.  You know what I'm talking about!

Check out the plans below - you'll see this one's pretty easy to make!!!  Corner, conquered!

PS - This wall corner pie cut cabinet is designed to work with this wall cabinet.  To keep the cabinet depths matching, it's important that you work with plans that use the same style and plywood depth rips.  For this cabinet, it's full face frame, 11 3/4" ripped plywood with 1/4" plywood on backs.

PSS - You might also want to check out this wall corner cabinet for the angled front door.

Dimensions shown above. Designed to work with 11 3/4" width ripped cabinets.


Shopping List

1 sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into 1 strip 22 3/4" wide x 8 feet long AND 1 strip 11 3/4" wide x 8 feet long (might as well rip the remaining strip 11 3/4" wide and use it for more wall cabinets)
1/2 sheet 1/4" plywood for backs
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long in matching hardwood species
1 - 1x3 @ 30" in matching hardwood species
2 - 1 1/4" overlay face frame concealed euro style hinges*
2 - pie cut hinges for attaching doors together*
Screws for hanging cabinet wall and attaching face frames to neighboring cabinets
Doors or materials to make doors as shown in plan

*see comments

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

4 - 3/4" plywood 22 3/4" x 22 3/4" (cut these from the ripped strip 22 3/4" wide)
2 - 3/4" plywood 11 3/4" x 30" (cut these from the ripped strip 11 3/4" wide)
1 - 1x3 @ 30"
2 - 1x2 @ 21" (longest point measurement, one end is cut to 45 degree bevel - for heavier loads, consider cutting four more for placement under all fixed shelves)
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 22" (backs)

2 - 1x2 @ 30"
2 - 1x2 @ 10 1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 9 3/4"

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First cut all of your shelves as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Next, drill pocket holes in all shelves and sides as shown in diagram, and then attach shelves to the sides.

Step 3

Attach back 1x3 to the back keeping shelves level. Countersink screws and use glue.

Step 4

These guys are for hanging the cabinet later on. For heavier loads, I suggest more braces under the remaining fixed shelves. Attach with glue and screws - try 3/4" pocket holes on back sides.

Step 5

Step 6

Build your face frame separately with hidden 3/4" pocket holes on back side. Then attach to carcass using the predrilled pocket holes from step 2.

Step 7

For standard full overlay doors with 1/2" reveal between doors/drawers, door size is as shown above. When you hang the doors, adjust so 1/4" of the face frame is revealed on the ends of the face frame, 1/2" on tops and bottoms.

Step 8

For my kitchen cabinet, these hinges were used to hinge two doors together.

Step 9

And these concealed hinges, although a 1 1/4" overlay face frame euro concealed hinge would do the trick too.

Step 10

And here's my corner base cabinet, just for reference.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Fri, 02/08/2013 - 13:47

Thank you for the concise, easy-to-follow plans, Ana. One question about the door hinges, just for clarity in my mind...the hinges that you say "hinge two doors together" are used instead of, say, a piano hinge? Then you use a different type of hinge (Euro-style?) to attach the two doors to the cabinet? Thank you for any clarification. I don't understand the myriad of hinge types available.

Ana White

Fri, 02/08/2013 - 14:32

Hi Linda, thank you! You'll need some way of attaching the two doors together. A piano hinge could work, but the hinge pin would show, and there's no way of controlling the exact gap between the doors to get your 1/4" reveal on the edges. The hinge you'll need for attaching the two doors together is called a Pie-cut Corner Hinge

Hope this helps! Ana


Sat, 02/09/2013 - 18:06

You make these seem so straightforward. I will be so amazed if I can master making cabinets: I think I'll try some out for my basement before I take on the kitchen.....


Mon, 02/11/2013 - 06:29

I'm going to attempt my own, but I'm having some trouble deciding on the type of ply to use. Many forums say you need A1, some say "cabinet grade" (don't even know what this is) and some DIY say B4 is fine....what did type did you use? and did you find the sheets were fairly flat (not bowed), I'm thinking about frameless and a bit nervous about bow in the plywood, and where did you find your 1/4" ply (is that maple?) for the door pannels?....sorry about the million questions- excited to start this!


Tue, 02/12/2013 - 07:52

Ana - is there any special way to join the cabinets together? Are there special screws or do you just use regular ones screwed through the 1/2" spacer that's between the cabs. I'm building these lovely cabinets for my laundry room and I'm just unsure as how to keep them snugged up to each other. Thanks for your help with this in advance!


Sat, 03/28/2020 - 18:18

I want to say first I love all of your plans and projects! But I’m having trouble with this plan , the shelf is 22-3/4” each side then adding 3/4 for the side and 1/4” for the face frame. Where is the 24” coming from. Is it 1/2 for the face frame overhang? I must be missing something here.