DIY wood cooler plans!
Cooler (designed to fit this one)
4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
Hinges, caster wheels if desired
4 - 2x2 @ 35" (legs)
6 - 2x2 @ 24" (frame for front/back)
5 - 1x3 @ 10 3/4" (back panel boards)
4 - 1x6 @ 10 3/4" (front and back panel boards)
2 - 2x2 @ 10 3/4" (front panel boards)
Scrap plywood 10 3/4" x 10"
14 - 2x4 @ 13 1/2" (sides and shelf slats)
4 - 1x6 @ 8 3/4" (Side panels)
2 - 1x3 @ 8 3/4" (side panels)
2 - 1x3 @ 28" - both ends mitered at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 17 1/2" - both ends mitered at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 27" - both ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" - both ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
4 - 1x6 @ 14 1/2" (top panel)
1 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (top panel)
2 - 1x2 @ 13" (inner frame)
2 - 1x2 @ 25 1/2" (inner frame)
2 - 1x6 @ 5 1/2" - cut out arch shape (supports)
1 - 1x6 @ 15" (shelf)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Build your two main frames as shown above.
For the back frame, add paneling boards - there can be a gap in between these depending on your 1x board widths.
Then add the 1x6s to the front frame.
TIP: You can also drill 3/4" PHs facing the 2x2s for step 4 now to attach in next step.
And then the 2x2s.
Connect the two frames with the 2x4s - spacing for the shelf slats is approximately 1 1/4".
Then fill in your side panels.
And build the top frame separately with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws and attach to top. You can attach to top with countersunk screws or nails.
This completes the main wood cooler part.
Moving on to the lid .... build your frame and add the panel boards.
And then add the inner frame to keep the lid in place.
For the shelf, attach the brackets to the 2x2s - you can use PH screws or countersunk screws.
And the shelf on top. I simplified in the plans with the 1x6 shelf - I love how Jenny made her shelf here.
For more details on attaching the drain to the cooler - please read through Jenny's post as well.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.