Wood Cooler by Birds and Soap

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

DIY wood cooler plans!

The coolest guy in the house deserves the coolest gift ever, right???

You all remember Jenny from Birds and Soap ... creator of the Sweet Pea Bunk Beds?

Well, Jenny's generous enough to share her newest amazing creation with us today!!!

For Father's Day, Jenny made her husband a wood cooler!!

What Dad wouldn't want this???

Jenny designed and built this wood cooler, and was so kind to share the plans with you today here.

But before we get to the plans, you have to go read Jenny's post on how she built the cooler, how she accessorized with saved bottle caps, and what cooler she used, and how she modified it ...  I'll see you back for the plans then, okay?

Thank you so much Jenny for sharing these wonderful plans with us today!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

Cooler (designed to fit this one)

4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

Hinges, caster wheels if desired

Cut List

MAIN COOLER
4 - 2x2 @ 35" (legs)
6 - 2x2 @ 24" (frame for front/back)
5 - 1x3 @ 10 3/4" (back panel boards)
4 - 1x6 @ 10 3/4" (front and back panel boards)
2 - 2x2 @ 10 3/4" (front panel boards)
Scrap plywood 10 3/4" x 10"
14 - 2x4 @ 13 1/2" (sides and shelf slats)
4 - 1x6 @ 8 3/4" (Side panels)
2 - 1x3 @ 8 3/4" (side panels)
2 - 1x3 @ 28" - both ends mitered at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 17 1/2" - both ends mitered at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)

LID
2 - 1x3 @ 27" - both ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" - both ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement (top frame)
4 - 1x6 @ 14 1/2" (top panel)
1 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (top panel)
2 - 1x2 @ 13" (inner frame)
2 - 1x2 @ 25 1/2" (inner frame)

SHELF
2 - 1x6 @ 5 1/2" - cut out arch shape (supports)
1 - 1x6 @ 15" (shelf)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build your two main frames as shown above.

Step 2

For the back frame, add paneling boards - there can be a gap in between these depending on your 1x board widths.

Step 3

Then add the 1x6s to the front frame.
TIP: You can also drill 3/4" PHs facing the 2x2s for step 4 now to attach in next step.

Step 4

And then the 2x2s.

Step 5

Step 6

Connect the two frames with the 2x4s - spacing for the shelf slats is approximately 1 1/4".

Step 7

Then fill in your side panels.

Step 8

And build the top frame separately with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws and attach to top. You can attach to top with countersunk screws or nails.

This completes the main wood cooler part.

Step 9

Moving on to the lid .... build your frame and add the panel boards.

Step 10

And then add the inner frame to keep the lid in place.

Jenny shares tips for attaching the lid here.

Step 11

For the shelf, attach the brackets to the 2x2s - you can use PH screws or countersunk screws.

Step 12

And the shelf on top. I simplified in the plans with the 1x6 shelf - I love how Jenny made her shelf here.

Step 13

For more details on attaching the drain to the cooler - please read through Jenny's post as well.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

countrysideworkshop

Sat, 07/27/2013 - 19:48

I am trying to build mine, but on the first picture in the plan with the front and back legs there is a missing measurement. The overall length. The middle supports measure at 24" but the overall including the legs is what? I ask because I added 1.5" per leg (milled 2x2 size) to the 24" which would give it an overall 27". But then if you had the 1" for the top lip that is built later in the plan than the lip is one inch off all the way around. But the plan says the lip is 28"x17.5"

countrysideworkshop

Sun, 07/28/2013 - 12:26

Are the plans made with milled dimension sizes? The lid isn't adding up. The panels (4 1x6 & 1 1x3 milled = 24.5"). If you create a frame that is 27x16 then it will be one inch to long. But if you used unmilled sizes then the frame would be 1 inch to short.

kmkoncir

Thu, 04/28/2016 - 07:45

Hey countrysideworkshop. I'm having the same issue? What measurements did you use to correct the lid problem? Advice from anyone would be much appreciated!

CSaintD

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 10:09

Hi, I am building this right now and have a question about the panels. The plan says to use pocket holes and screws to attach the panels to the frame. Do I attach the panel pieces together first, or just screw them into the head and foot rails of the frame? I am concerned about the outside panels hitting the screws that I used to build the frame (from 2x2 to 2x2), also with the outside 2x4's intersecting the screws from the frame.
Thanks in advance. This is the first time I've built anything like this and so want to be sure of everything before I make a mistake.

ashleymdahl

Thu, 02/22/2018 - 00:23

The width of the lid is the same as the base but the depth is 1/2 an inch smaller...is this an error in the plan or is it meant to be this way?  It looks a bit "off" to me.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!