Wood Wine Holder - Stacks, Stores and Serves

wood wine holder
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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This little wood wine holder stacks, stores, and you can use the top to serve!  It works as a gift box too for the wine lover.  Quick and easy DIY project that you can build with off the shelf pine boards and nail together.  Step by step plans from Ana-White.com

Here's a quick, easy handmade gift for under $10! 

Are you searching for the perfect hostess gift?  What if a wine caddy could be useful for more than just transporting the wine?

Using up scrap wood, I built this wood wine holder that does it all!  It stacks, it stores, it even serves!  We love it as a easy wood gift project.

wood wine holder

Wood Wine Holder Features

  • Works as a wine crate for easy transporting
  • Great handmade gift for the wine lover
  • Flips over to become a wine rack with useable space on top
  • Can be stacked to add more wine storage

 

How to Build the Wood Wine Holder - Video Tutorial

This project is so quick and easy to build!  We go through all the steps in the project plan video here-

 

No Jigsawing Version (Even Quicker and Easier!)

If cutting the curves out with a jigsaw intimidates you, don't worry!  You can skip it all together and just use 1x2s instead of the 1x3s.

wood wine holder stackable

It also still stacks just like the 1x3 version (see unfinished in photos)

wood wine holder stacked up

I do prefer the 1x3 version with the wine cutouts because it looks more custom and the wine is more secure in the project, but for a quick gift, the 1x2 version is just fine.  

 

Wood Wine Holder Plans

The plans for the wood wine holder plans follow.  

Dimensions
wood wine holder dimensions
Suitable for wine bottles less than 3-1/2" diameter - Wood wine holder dimensions shown in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 25 inches (a little more than 2 feet) of 1x8 board (can be in smaller pieces if using up scrap wood)
  • 50 inches (a little more than 4 feet) of 1x3 board (also can be smaller piece if using up scrap wood)*
  • 1 - 1/4" brad nails
  • wood glue
  • scroll blade for jigsaw recommended

*Can substitute for 1x2s and not cut out the arches for the wine bottles

Cut List
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 5"
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 13-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 5-3/4"

 

Cutting Instructions

Cut boards with a compound miter saw (preferred) or a circular saw.  

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

NOTE: This wood wine holder should not be moved when in the stacking mode (open bottom) as there is a possibility the wine could fall out the bottom of the wine holder.  If you wish to transport this way, make sure you add a bottom on to the wine holder.

For permanent stacking or stacking more than two high, we recommend screwing or nailing the wine holders together for added security.

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the 1x3 (or 1x2 if using) boards together with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.  

Step 2

Mark the front 1x3 with a pencil.  Use a round object to trace out the curves.

Clamp the lower 1x3 to a sturdy surface.

Cut out with a jigsaw.

Sand rough edges smooth.

NOTE: If using 1x2s skip this step.

Step 3

Attach the sides to the top with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Make sure this part sets level on a level surface.

Step 4

Fit the wine storage into the outer frame and make sure the project sits level on a level surface.

Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

You can add handles at this step.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I sanded my wine holders and applied one coat of Varathane Golden Oak.
For the top to serve food off of, also add a coat of varnish.
If you are planning on cutting on the top, do not stain - just use butcher block or other food grade oil to seal.

Comments

NOLAbuilder

Tue, 12/10/2019 - 07:26

Ana what do you recommend if I don’t have a brad nailed?  I plan to treat the wood with butcher block oil (no stain or paint).

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!