Confused about wood

Where furniture is stored before you buy it makes a huge difference. Make sure the wood you are buying is DRY. Sometimes letting it acclimate to your indoor temps/humidity will help. If you have a basement apartment that could be damp etc...that could be the problem. Also, sealing the project with a good paint or urethane will make a big difference.

I generally go for the medium of the road price wise.  The select pine is better than the normal pine, but not quite as good as the poplar.  Having said that, the finished product still turns out pretty well. 

 

For plywood sheets, just go with something hardwood...I like the blondewood or the birch, but they're not the most expensive, and not the cheapest either.  You can tell the quality of wood when you buy it, so just pay attention to detail.  I actually think I spend just as much time in the warehouse getting the wood as I do actually building my pieces.

 

Finishing work is key for protecting it.  A good primer will keep out mold and mildew from forming (the oil based Kilz is my favorite...water based is far less superior), and putting a few light coats of polyurethane on top will protect it from getting scratched and will seal it from water getting in.  I like using the water based poly for painting furniture and the oil based for staining.  The oil based will leave a little bit of a yellowish tint on painted furniture, but it richen's the color on stained items.

 

Go to the store with your cut list and get started.  There's absolutely nothing to be scared about.  Regardless of if it doesn't turn out perfectly, you'll love it because you made it.  You'll learn things along the way, and every piece you make will be a little bit better than the piece before.  It's addicting because it's so rewarding.  Best of luck!

Thanks so much for the info. :)  @KaraHart, is it okay to use both water based and oil based products on one project? I was thinking no.. but you mentioned using oil based primer, then water based poly..

You're quite welcome...I like it when I can be of help :-).

 

You can use either water or oil based for the primer with latex paint on top of that.  If you're staining, you want to use a wood conditioner, not really a primer.

 

So if you're painting, I'd use an oil based primer, paint, then a water based poly.  I did a water based primer for my second daybed I built (http://mekhart.blogspot.com/se.....bel/daybed) and was far less happy with it than my first daybed I built, where I used oil ( http://mekhart.blogspot.com/20.....eveal.html).

 

I also redid a sewing machine cabinet and used the oil based primer, latex paint, and water based polyurethane sealer, and loved the way that came out ( here: http://mekhart.blogspot.com/20.....chine.html).

 

So, in answer to your question, yes.  You just can't apply the layers directly on top of each other, and there are some other rules of thumb for different applications.  For a primer base and a top coat, you're fine.

 

Hope that helps some and I didn't confuse you more!

Okay, sounds like a plan to me! I've always been confused about all that; so I'll just stick to your "formula" for my first try. Thanks for the tips. I LOVE your sewing cabinet!!!

I'm just chiming in to ditto Kara!  You can put water-based on top of oil, but not oil on top of water!  Good luck, and have fun!  I just finished my first project and I picked something that isn't available to the 'general public' in my house, as it's in our bedroom.  So any mistakes or learning-curve issues I had are only visible to me and DH!

TwiddleLee said:

I've bought pine furniture in the past, and most of it warps on me after a few months of use. My large dry sink cabinet is warping at the top, my garbage bin's front panel is curling too... so how do I avoid this in furniture that I make?

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Store it absolutely flat or 100% vertical (not leaning) until you are ready to use it.

Finish all sides of the wood, even it it won't be visible, to keep it from absorbing moisture unevenly.

When you join boards edge-to-edge, look at the end grain and install it so the direction of the curves alternate like this:

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Narrow boards, joined, will be less likely to warp than wide ones.

Plywood panels are less likely to warp than plain boards.

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To fix the stuff that is warping, you have to take it off, put it warped (rounded) side up, and dry it until it's flat. Blowing warm air across it, or putting it in the sun may work.

Then when it is flat, put a good coat or two of paint or varnish of some sort on the previously unfinished side.

Great tips, thank you!!