Rolling Bar Cart with Removable Tray

rolling beverage cart diy plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build your own wood rolling bar cart - Featuring a top tray that is fully removable, and bottom shelf with slatted design for easy water drainage, curved handles for easy moving, and two large wooden front wheels, moving your party outdoors - or indoors come unplanned weather changes, is as easy as it is stylish.

The plans are very detailed with step by step diagrams, shopping and cut list, and reader submitted photos from Ana-White.com

Photos by CAREN_BLUEJEANS

 
Dimensions
rolling beverage cart DIY plans

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1/2" diameter bolts,
  • 2 1/2" long with bolts
  • 6 - 1/2" washers to fit bolts
  • 2 - handles
  • 2 - 6" diameter wood rounds
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 41 1/2" (Side Aprons)
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 32" (Legs)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 16" (End Aprons)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 32" (Optional Side Supports)

Trays

  • 4 - 1x3 @ 33 1/4" (Sides)
  • 10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (Bottom Slats)
  • 10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/4" (Top Slats)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 16" (Bottom Ends)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 15 3/4" (Top Ends)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the sides. Start by drawing a handle pattern on the side aprons. The handle at most can be 6" long, as the handle overhangs the back leg 6". Clamp both side aprons together and sand until the two match perfectly.

You can also taper the back leg with a jigsaw as shown above (I didn't, but would be cute).

Then attach the legs to the side apron, using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and drilling holes with the Kreg Jig, set for 3/4" stock.  Again, the handle overhangs the back leg by 6".  Use glue and adjust for the square.  

You will need to build two sides.  Take care to keep the pocket holes to the inside to conceal.

Step 2

Once your two sides are complete, attach the end aprons as shown in the diagram. Use glue, adjust for square.

Step 3

After I built my bar cart, I thought that a little extra support and also, a rail for possibly using smaller trays (or even a drop in ice bucket) would be good. So this step really is optional, but recommended. Add the side aprons supports as shown above.

Step 4

Now the trays. You can build the trays with pocket holes, but it's really overkill. I used 2" finish nails and wood glue, two nails per slat, with slats spaced 3/4" apart.

The top tray needs to be 1/4" narrower than the bottom so you can easily remove it without scratching the finish. This is noted above and shown in the cut list.

Step 5

Step 6

Now add the trays to the frame. The top is as easy as just resting in place. For the bottom, measure up 6" and screw in place. I used 1 1/4" screws and glue from the insides, two per leg, and it's plenty strong to hold my preschooler.

Step 7

Drill holes in the center of your wood rounds with a 1/2" drill bit. Mark the hole placement on the leg, and drill holes in the legs. Test the wheels with bolts, and when satisified, remove the wheels and trim legs (see next step).

When you put your wheels on permanently, you will want to use three washers - one on the bolts side, one on the nut side, and one between the wheel and the leg to protect your finish. Bolt side out, nuts on the inside.

Step 8

And a diagram for how the finished leg should look.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

karahart

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 10:28

Such a smart plan Ana!! I can't wait for the baby to get here so that I can get back out and start building again! Thanks for another awesome plan (and thanks for the feature too!)

In reply to by Ana White

karahart

Thu, 05/12/2011 - 14:28

Haha, she so is going to be a little builder too!! We've already got plans for lego's and fisher price hammers! Thanks for the Congrats, so sweet!!

ddietz12

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 10:53

I love it. Was going to build the outdoor bar table for my brother so he has something to but his food on while he is bbqing but this is so much better for that situation. Especially since the tray is removal. Perfect. Good job as usual Ana and thanks for sharing

claydowling

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 10:56

If you don't want to argue with making wheels, Harbor Freight and Menards both have good selections of wheels that would be appropriate for this cart.

The wooden wheels are slick though, if you can pull them off.

ACraftyCauldron

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 11:50

I was hoping when I saw this on FB yesterday that plans would be coming. I LOVE IT!!! I loved the whole idea of it anyway, but the removable tray really put me over the top. FABULOUS!!!

Rachael Jean (not verified)

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 12:38

Anyone have any hints for building this if you don't have a Kreg jig?? I'm fine with visible screws...

In reply to by Rachael Jean (not verified)

Ana White

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 13:03

For sure, it can bed done! There are really two ways. The old fashioned way (that still works probably better than anything) is to use wood dowels. Really the only joints that require a pocket hole joint are the side aprons to leg joints.

The other option is to raise the supports to cover the leg to side apron joints. See diagram below.

In reply to by Rachael Jean (not verified)

claydowling

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 13:08

Most of this cart could be built using half-lap joinery with a good exterior grade glue (Titebond III comes to mind). Mortise and tenon joinery should take care of the rest.

Those are moderately advanced topics though, and you'd either need expensive power equipment and a fair bit of training, or a couple of chisels, a decent hand saw, and some practice.

You could also look at knock-down hardware. Although to be fair, for what you're going to pay, you could buy a kreg jig.

Ana's suggestion is probably more sensible though. My only reservation was that dowels crossing the end grain don't give as much strength as you might like, but worth it to find out.

Rachael Jean (not verified)

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 13:17

Thanks! Dowels and "advanced joinery" are both WAY beyond my current skill level... :) I was thinking the part about the top of the tray would be the only part that would be a bit of a sticky wicket to do w/o the kreg, so thanks for the diagram Ana! :) This will go on my To Build list... :)

claydowling

Wed, 05/11/2011 - 13:32

Dowels aren't really that complicated. You would need to pick up a doweling jig and brad point bits though. Decent doweling jigs are inexpensive and very versatile. You could practice with a bit of scrap and in the space of an afternoon you'd be building good solid joints with your new doweling jig.

There's no shame in the doweling jig, either. Lots of pros use it for building furniture because it just works. I have a set of drawers held together with dowels, and there's no risk they're going to come apart anytime soon.

This video shows how easy they are to use: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht0Q5MmwWsM

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!