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Full Height Playhouse Loft Bed

Full Height Playhouse Loft Bed
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I built this bed for my daughter a few years back. It's essentially just a false front and sides on a platform bed. Some notes - this bed does reach the ceiling, so make sure you are prepared for the bed filling up your space. It's big. The interior height is suitable for preschoolers.

Full Height Playhouse Loft Bed
Here is a quick video to show you how the bed is put together:</div>
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Full Height Playhouse Loft Bed

Dimensions
Full Height Playhouse Loft Bed
8 Feet Tall x 7 Feet Wide x 4 Feet Deep (approximate size)

Preparation

Shopping List

4 sheets of 3/4″ plywood 

1 sheet of 1/2″ plywood 
bundle of 1x2s 
couple of 1x4s and 1x6s 
 1 - 1×12 @ 8 feet 
6 - sets of hinges
 2 - 8′ long 1 1/2″ dowels 
6 - 2x4s 1- 2×6
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Due to the great complexity of this project, please cut your boards as you go. Each step includes detailed instructions on cut lengths.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level

Instructions

Step 1

2 – 2x4s @ 75″ (Sides of the bed frame)
6 – 2x4s @ 36″ (Studs for the bed frame)
1. Build the above frame, as shown above. Use 3″ screws to screw the frame together. Make sure your project is square.

Step 2

1/2″ plywood cut at 75″ x 39″
2. Attach the plywood as shown above, using 2″ screws and glue. Keep outside edges flush and make sure the frame is perfectly square before attaching the plywood (see the HOW TO section on squaring projects).

Step 3

2 – 2x4s @ 51 1/2″
3. Screw the 2×4 to the bed frame as shown, with the bottom of the 2x4s flush with the plywood. This plan is for a 3 sided bed and the side without the 2x4s will be screwed to studs in the wall of the room the bed is in. You may wish to complete this step when you assemble the bed in the room to make moving the bed into the room easier. You will be building 2 legs.
Use 2 3/4″ screws and glue.

Step 4

2 - 2×4 @ 48″
2 - 2×6 @ 48″
4. Screw the 48″ 2×4 to the 52 1/2″ 2×4 from step 3 first. Keep bottom edges flush. Then, keeping the outside corner flush, screw the 2×6 to the two 2x4s, as shown above. Use glue and keep the bottom edge flush. Remember, you need to build 2 legs. This completes the legs.
Use 2 3/4″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

You will need 1x2s and 1x4s.
6. Starting in the lower left corner, trim the false front out as shown. The measurements shown are approximations and should only be used to guide you. Take exact measurements off your own project and cut as you go. All angles are 45 degrees. All trim pieces are 1x2s, except the trim at the bottom and the trim above the door.
Use glue and 1 1/2″ nails. Whenver possible, use 2 1/2″ nails to nail through 1 piece of trim into another on the edge.

Step 7

Use 1x2s to trim out the window. Start with the sides, 1x2s cut at 21″. Then measure, and add the 1x2s to the top and bottom, keeping the bottom trim flush with the sides. The top trim piece will overextend 3/4″ on either end. The measurements given are to guide you and may not be exact with your projects measurements. Once the window has been trimmed out, add the sill, a 1×3, keeping the back edge flush. Remember to trim out both windows. The measurements are the same. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to nail the trim to the plywood.

Step 8

The doors for the windows are 1x6s. Take a measurement of the window and cut the 1x6s to size. You may wish to leave a large gap around the windows to prevent little fingers from being pinched. Attach the window doors with hinges after you have painted the project.

Step 9

The doors for the front door are 1x12s. Follow the guidelines in step 7.

Step 10

The “Vent” is actually more than decorative. It will help hold the 2 pieces of plywood together. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to fasten the vertical vent pieces, as shown above.

Step 11

2 – 1x2s @ 13 1/2″
10. Trim out the ends of the vent as shown above. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nails. Then use 2 1/2″ nails and nail through the edges of the end trim pieces into the horizontal vent pieces from step 9.

Step 12

3/4″ Plywood 39 3/4″ x 72″
11. Cut plywood as shown above. You may wish to assemble the bed in place.

Step 13

1 - 1×2 @ 72″
1 – 1×2 @ 39 3/4″
12. Trim the top of the plywood panel with the 39 3/4″ piece. Then, with the 72″ piece on edge, trim the end edge of the plywood as shown above. This will make the overall dimension of the side panel 40 1/2″ wide. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nails.
See step 16 for more information on finishing the corner trim.

Step 14

2 – 1×2 @ 70 1/2″
1 – 1×4 @ 36 3/4″
13. Trim out the face of the side panel, starting with th 1x2s. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nalis.

Step 15

2 – 1×2 @ 70 1/2″
1 – 1×4 @ 36 3/4″
13. Trim out the face of the side panel, starting with th 1x2s. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nalis.

Step 16

Trim out the corner of the ladder panel, as shown above. The easiest way to do this is to first nail with 1 1/4″ nails and glue one of the 1x2s @ 72″ to the plywood, keeping outside edges flush. Then nail the remaining 1×2@ 72″ to the outside edge, covering the edges of the first 1×2 and the plywood. This is shown above.

Step 17

Detail view.

Step 18

2 – 2x4s @ 52″ (Ladder Rails)
2 – 1x4s @ 18″ (Top and Bottom trim for ladder
1 – 1×4 @ 17 1/4″ (Bottom Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Top Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 20″ (Vertical Trim above ladder)

These measurements are appoximations and you should measure and cut your boards to your projects measurements. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to nail trim pieces in place. Use 3″ screws to screw from the inside of the playhouse into the ladder. Also use the 3″ screws to screw from the outsides of the ladder rails into the 1×4 trim pieces end edges. Please note, you may wish to complete step 19 first.

Step 19

Build the ladder by drilling 1 1/2″ diameter holes in the 2 x 4 ladder rails and inserting the dowels. Glue the dowels securely in place. Use the measurement above to guide you.

Step 20

Finish the entire bed as desired. Then assemble the bed screwing the legs on securely and by screwing the bed frame into studs in the wall of the room using screws at least 3 1/2″ long on the side without the legs. The bottom of the bed frame will sit 48″ up from the floor (if you have not shortened the bed). Keep the bed level with the legs.
Then add the front panel, screwing into the legs and the bed frame from the face of the front panel. Use 2″ screws. Do the same to add the side panels.
I encourage you to modify this bed as fits your child’s needs. The bed I build my daughter only had two sides and is secured to the wall on the remaining two sides. Make sure you measure your ceiling before embarking on this project.

Project Type
Bunk Bed
Toys
Other Projects
Room
Bedroom
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

Sew Much Ado (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 19:36

Oh my gosh, this is amazing! I wish I was young again and could have one, I'm saving this to show my husband!

{Pink Igloo Designs} (not verified)

Thu, 01/07/2010 - 20:03

I Stumbled across your blog today. Where have you been all my life? (LOL)
My husband and I enjoy these types of projects to do together.
We live in Alaska and shipping up here is so expensive. So every time we see a pottery barn magazine, we examine it and try to do it ourselves. I guess we've learned through trial and error, but for the most part I'm happy with the projects we've accomplished. And now thanks to you...many more projects to come.
I just wanted to tell you thank you for giving your plans away for free. I know many hours went into making the tutorials, so just know it's appreciated!
I'll be visiting often!
Thanks,
Erika

Rachel (not verified)

Fri, 01/08/2010 - 03:10

I just stumbled onto your site today. It's a great site. And this bed is amazing. I love it! Thank you so much for making the plans available!
On a practical note, is it really hard to change the sheets?

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 01/08/2010 - 06:55

Hi Rachel . . . you are assuming she actually sleeps up there . . . and not in the middle of our bed!

Sheets can be a little tricky, but it's worth it.

The Coe's (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 15:40

I saw one of these years ago before I ever even had kids, and saved the page from the magazine! (before blogs! LOL)
I just had my first Girl last year, (after 2 boys) and am sooooo glad to find this tutoral here! Thanks!

Get N Together (not verified)

Wed, 01/13/2010 - 06:54

So Stinkin cute!! I have my first girl after 2 boys and she is just about ready to move out of her crib...I think this is my new project. Thanks!

Angela Rae (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 10:06

I just stumbled on your blog and I'm thrilled. It's like finding treasure you didn't even know you were looking for and now can't believe how close you came to not finding it. So I'm putting a link to yours from mine, to share the info to my friends and family. You are EXACTLY the reason I love searching blogs. What a treasure. Thank you for sharing your talents.

SRH (not verified)

Thu, 02/18/2010 - 18:26

AMAZING!! (also, as a former alaskan, it's always a point of pride when you stumble across another alaskan doing something impressive).

The Dafoe Family (not verified)

Sun, 02/28/2010 - 19:51

Love this! My husband and I plan on building this this summer for our 3 year old! Love the are you in DJ! We are in NP and saw the News Miner article! I am a do-it yourself mommy too!

Mel (not verified)

Thu, 03/04/2010 - 07:26

Someone on sewing mamas posted a link to your blog. I am finding so many things here that I've wanted to make in the past, and a few for now. I'm still browsing.
We got a bed like this off craigslist. We considered building it, but we found a good deal. Glad to see it here, and I'll certainly recommend you, if anyone asks.

Jennifer (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 10:45

OMG! That is the coolest thing I've ever seen for a child's room! Crap....now that I'm gonna build this, what am i gonna do with the beds my kids already have?? LOL! Precious! you are one creative inspiration!! I found this site on accident and it was the best thing I've done all day!

Kenna and Steve (not verified)

Tue, 03/16/2010 - 10:34

I just wanted to see if you have a playhouse loft bed plan for a boy yet? I would love to make one for my son.

Jalen (not verified)

Mon, 04/12/2010 - 06:14

Could this loft bed become a bunk bed as well? Do you think a mattress could fit in the upper and lower bunk?

Katie Little P… (not verified)

Tue, 05/04/2010 - 14:22

Ana- I LOVE this bed, but my husband and I are trying desperately to find a twin bed that will fit against a 76" wall. I know that most twin mattresses are 75" long so that doesn't give us much space to work with. Can you please tell me what the overall length of this loft bed is? Thank you SO much!

SAHDaddy (not verified)

Wed, 08/25/2010 - 14:19

love this, we just printed it out and are planing on building this for our 3 yearold soon!
can't wait to post pics

theschwenkfamily (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 22:00

I am so inspired by your awesome plans I have been looking through them all reading the comments etc. for 2 hours LOL its now 3am and I am wishing I could be out in the garage building :) Thanks so much this site it awesome

Jenny (not verified)

Sat, 10/23/2010 - 20:10

hello Ana!
I've been toying with the playhouse loft bed idea for awhile. I've been set on making my own plan based on some amazing $8,000+ beds that I've found online, and was so excited to have stumbled across your plan! I wanted a simple loft bed with a beautiful facade, and your plan does just the trick! I would like to add decorative moulding on the gables, do some cut-outs on the shutters, possibly some type of portico on the entrance to the little playhouse (and OMG, have you seen the one online with the little bay window? http://www.sweetdreambed.com/girlsgallery.htm).... your plan is a perfect match for what I have in my head. I can't wait to get started. Thanks so much for the inspiration!

mkmb129 (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 04:57

This is amazing!! Your whole site is fantastic. I've spent hours looking through it and now have the woodworking bug! Thank you so, so much for sharing!!!!

Sharon (not verified)

Sun, 01/16/2011 - 07:52

Hi, fantastic, beautiful! I live in Italy and over here you can't find too much diy projects. Soon we're going to move in our new hom & I'm struggling through internet for some ideas. I have 2 girls, one of 10 & the other of 3.
This would be a nice project to do for the little girl,I luv it!
thanks for sharing such precious idea, can't wait to start it.
Sharon

Summer Crow (not verified)

Fri, 06/22/2012 - 21:33

Ana-

I actually have a question about the slide. I am making your fort beds for my twin boys but plan to join them and was wanting to put a slide in the middle. I do not want a wooden slide. Would rather a premade plastic slide. Where did you get your slide from that you used on this bed and how did you go about attaching it, if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks sooo much! Your plans and site are wonderful! I have a notebook full of things that you have plans for that I want to make! I can't wait to get started!

Thanks again!

Loraine (not verified)

Wed, 09/26/2012 - 11:16

I have a girl and a boy that both share a room. I was thinking about a farm theme in their room and I think this would make a good "barn" if painted red with white shutters. Is there room in the playhouse for another twin mattress?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!