5x5 Storage Cubbies

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Make a room divider cubby system to organize an entire room. Free easy step by step plans.

This plan is designed by Ana, built by Tamara.

"Storage, Storage, Storage!!" That's what Ana called this piece, and she is absolutely correct. Second to Ana-white.com, my next biggest obsession is Pinterest.com, where I first saw this sort of storage piece. I have totally become addicted to that site too. The funny thing for me about finding inspiration online these days is that now I don't find a piece and think, 'oh wow, I'm gonna have to find out where to buy that and find a good deal.' Thanks to Ana and her wonderful DIY site, I look at things now from the perspective of, 'what would it take to build that?' And I LOVE having the confidence to know that I can actually build furniture!! Ana, from the bottom of my heart, I thank you for that gift. 

When Ana asked me for some projects that I would be interested in doing I knew this was one on the top of my list. I'm working on transforming my boys' nursery into a 'big boy room' and this is one of the first steps toward that process. The storage is incredible, the process of building is simple and the satisfaction of knowing, 'I actually built that beast of a storage unit' is awesome!

Here are few tips that may or may not help someone when doing this project:
-choose your boards carefully. Due to the size of these boards you are working with, you want to make sure you get really nice pieces. 
-measure, measure and measure again...I am still trying to get 'square' projects, but each project gets closer and closer.  
-for the shelves, I would suggest starting in the middle column and working your way out in order to maintain a nice and level flow across all five. On one of my rows I put one board on the left side, one on the right and started working my way inward, and it just didn't work AS well as working from the middle outward. 
-as suggested by Ana in the plans, I would anchor this piece to the wall. Mine doesn't rock and is very sturdy, but it will be in my kid's room and they are very tempted to climb  on it already. 

For the finish I used a soft blue with a flat latex base (sorry, I don't know the exact color it was an old one I had on hand). I primed, painted 2 coats of paint (sanded in between) and applied a clear coat to finish and seal it.

I hope you have as much fun as I did putting this piece together and I hope you enjoy the 'Storage, Storage, Storage' as much as I do! 
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

12 – 1x12 @ 6 feet long OR 8 1x12 @ 10 feet long
10 – 1x2 @ 6 feet long
100 - 1 1/4” pocket hole screws
1 1/4” finish nails
Wood glue

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 – 1x12 @ 70 1/2”
4 – 1x12 @ 69 3/4”
2 – 1x12 @ 72”
2 – 1x2 @ 70 1/2”
20 1x12 @ 13 1/2”
4 – 1x2 @ 69”
4 – 1x2 @ 72”

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Make sure you have a flat workspace at least six feet by six feet for building this bookshelf. Make all large cuts first, followed by smaller cuts. Drill all pocket holes prior to assembly. Use glue on all joints.

Mark top and bottom boards as shown in diagram, carefully measuring to make sure there is a 13 ½” gap between all shelves. Also drill pocket holes on both ends of top and bottom prior to assembly. It will be difficult to drill pocket holes once attached to the project.

Step 2

Attach sides to the sides, using 1 1/4” pocket holes and glue. Adjust the entire project for square by taking a diagonal from opposite outside corners, ensuring both diagonals match in length (see last step).

Step 3

Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue to attach bottom support trim to bottom. Also nail through the sides into ends for additional support.

Step 4

Drill 3/4” pocket holes on each end of each shelf. Mark shelf locations on all sides and upright boards. Attach shelves with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue. TIP: Alternate drilling pocket holes offset on each end so screws do not line up exactly when you go to place shelves. IF you do have a situation where screws bump into each other, just drill another pocket hole offset.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Brian (not verified)

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 04:50

My question is: What is more structurally sound...having the horizontal weight-bearing shelves be resting on the screws, or should the whole design be rotated 90 degrees so that the weight-bearing shelves rest on wood instead of only screws? I guess it wouldn't really matter in the end, as we probably won't be storing baby elephants on the shelves, but it's just a question I have. Thanks for the post!

amykelmann (not verified)

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 08:30

I second that thought....is there a good reason NOT to turn it?

In reply to by Brian (not verified)

claydowling

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 09:07

I think your plan will be a lot more sound, Brian. This is probably strong enough as-is, but the added strength won't hurt and might help.

Another option is egg-crate construction. The tools to do that are a bit more advanced though, and you should check YouTube for some instruction on doing it.

In reply to by Brian (not verified)

Ana White

Thu, 12/22/2011 - 11:09

Hi Brian, this could be built either way, but the full vertical sides actually bear the weight of all the shelves, transferring the weight of the shelf contents down to the ground. The pocket hole screws are extremely strong and hold shelves up of much wider widths. Also, by going this route, all pocket holes are hidden to the underside. That said, there's no reason you could not go the other way. Hope this makes sense!

Happy Holidays! Ana

Brian (not verified)

Thu, 12/22/2011 - 15:29

I understand your comment, but I'm more interested in the strength of the wood instead of the necessary shear force to bust the screws. But like I said, I don't think much being stored on the shelves would cause an issue either way.

BTW...what's the weather in Alaska like? I need to travel to Anchorage for my job on Jan. 9. I'm pretty pumped about it.

Thanks again!

Ryan Griffin (not verified)

Wed, 02/01/2012 - 23:15

Actually it would be better to rotate this shelving unit. Ana mentioned that the holes would be visible, but not if hidden with the wood filler as suggested in the plan. In either case the weight will be transferred to the vertical pieces but, by rotating, it will prevent any gaps that may open along the perimeter of the individual shelves. Just open up the .skp file, rotate the unit, export a new .jpg and upload to your site ;).

If you are going to stain the unit, just insert the appropriate sized dowel and careful saw off the excess with a dovetail saw or a sharp chisel. Sand this smooth and stain away!

Griff

babysteps

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 06:53

This project would be super fast, easy and strong with the Kreg jig. If anyone is planning on making this and hasn't yet invested in a Kreg jig, buy one. You will never regret it!

claydowling

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 11:35

Plywood would be an excellent material for deeper shelves. You'll need a good plywood cutting jig, and you'd want a way to dress the front of the shelves too, because the edge of the plywood is unappealing. Solid wood would look nice, but heat-activated edge banding would also work.

Ryan Griffin (not verified)

Wed, 02/01/2012 - 23:23

I agree that plywood would make an excellent candidate for this unit. Instead of the pocket holes/screws, you could use a table saw or router to make dados for some added strength. Another option for covering the exposed edges of the plywood would be to face it out with some 1x stock. Kids are so rough on furniture, edge banding veneer may peel off over time.

The facing would look something like this...
http://hgtv.sndimg.com/HGTV/2009/02/03/HCCAN406-Hutch-WIP-s4x3_lg.jpg

Griff

rhonit

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 18:21

about being able to use for scrapbook supplies, my husband said the same thing, that we could use ply and trim out with wood like we did in our livingroom. i would like to show you pictures but can't get them to load.

Lisa R (not verified)

Wed, 01/25/2012 - 12:55

Can anyone give a rough estimate on cost to build this?

In reply to by Lisa R (not verified)

exuma_momma

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 04:36

Hi Lisa,

My rough cost for this was about $250 after the paint and everything. I will say this though, some of my materials cost a bit more than they do in the US because I live on a little island in the Bahamas and everything has to be imported. Hopefully this will give you a ball park though.

Good luck!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/25/2012 - 18:42

I can't see it costing much more than 100. Those are basic boards sold at Home Depot or Lowes.

In reply to by Guest (not verified)

exuma_momma

Mon, 02/27/2012 - 12:39

You're probably right about that...but I don't have a home depot or lowes in the Bahamas... the $250 was my rough costs for supplies there, as I mentioned. Definitely shouldn't cost that much in the US. Hope this helps.

Tausha (not verified)

Mon, 10/15/2012 - 19:53

I wonder how good this will look if you make it look like old barn wood by beating the wood and staining it? I'm thinking I will have to try it!!!

Morgangarvin

Wed, 01/29/2014 - 10:02

I am beginning this project. I can tell in both the picture of the blue cubby whole piece and in the diagram that the outide pieces (70 1/2in and 72 in) are thicker than 1 inch. Did you use 2x12 for those instead of 1X12?

Thanks!

starrienyte

Sun, 10/12/2014 - 17:45

I'm a real beginner with this stuff. If I wanted to leave the middle part open like this room divider would I need to change anything?  Also considering adding doors to the lower shelves for more concealed storage.  

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!