Slipper Chair

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Slipper chairs have been eluding us DIYers for some time, but I sat down and analyzed a set of chairs I bought from Target, and I think I've figured it out! This plan is for BUILDING the slipper chair. I will share how *I* upholstered mine on my blog (will link here when tutorial is complete), but I'm sure you amazing people will know better ways of doing it.

I'm having issues listing one of my plans as "intermediate" - because I don't think that I'm an intermediate builder yet - but the front legs on this gave me some issues. You absolutely have the option of screwing the legs in either to the frame using pocket hole joinery, or attaching without the support I'll show in steps 6 & 7, but I NEED all the support I can get with climbing kids (and, I hate to mention this, but very overweight family).

*I altered the dimensions of the plan to make cushion-buying easier. There are CHEAP 22" foam cushions at Hobby Lobby (especially if you use the 40% off coupon). So I am giving you a 22" chair instead of a 24" chair (I cannot remove the photo in the

The seat and the back weren't screwed together

I am in the process of building my 18 month old a slipper chair (meaning that I'm gathering scraps, but haven't done anything else :-p), and will document how I upholster it as I do so. I REALLY winged it with the full-sized chair, and didn't stop to take photos of the process. If any of you amazing builders think you've "got this," please document it for us, in the meantime!

Dimensions
22" W x 23 1/2" D x 31" H (for some reason I cannot remove this photo to replace with one that lists the correct dimensions, so note THESE, not the photo!)

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - 2 x 4 x 8
1 - 1 x 4 x 8
1 - 2 x 2 x 8
1 - 1 x 2 x 8 (or at least a 40" scrap)
1 - 3/4" MDF or Ply wood @ 24" x 24"

Common Materials
3/4 inch screws
1 inch screws
2 inch screws
Cut List

(A) 2 - 2 x 4 @ 31" (back legs)
(B) 1 - 2 x 4 @ 19" (back apron)
(C) 1 - 2 x 2 @ 19" (top of back)
(D) 2 - 1 x 2 @ 19 (back supports)
(E) 2 - 1 x 4 @ 20 1/2" (front & back of seat)
(F) 2 - 1 x 4 @ 22" (sides of seat)
(G) 4 - 2 x 2 @ 6" - ends cut 40 degrees NOT parallel (seat supports)
(H) 2 - 2 x 2 @ 13 1/2 (Front legs)
(I) 1 - 3/4" MDF or ply wood @ 20 1/2" x 20 1/2"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Draw the above pattern onto your legs (A). It's best to draw it onto one leg, cut out, and trace onto the other. Then clamp them together and sand until they're perfectly matched.

Cut out with either a jig saw or circular saw.

Step 2

Attach (B) and (C) to the legs (A) using either pocket holes or pre drilling through the sides. The top (C) should be angled to match the angle of the chair. You can sand or cut off the excess at the top of the legs (A) created by the angle, if desired.

Step 3

Add your back supports (D). I didn't measure mine, but make sure you space them where somewhat evenly so that they'll support your cushion (OPTIONAL: You can add a piece of 1/4" plywood if you feel that your cushion may not have all the support needed - I didn't find it necessary, but you may).

Step 4

Created a box using your (E) and (F) boards, as shown above. The (F) boards should be on the OUTSIDE of the (E) boards, as pictured. You can either drill through your (F) board or use pocket hole screws through your (E) board.

Step 5

Step 6

Mark your front legs 1 1/2" down from the top. Now place in the corner of the chair and trace the opening created by the seat supports. You'll cut out the area that is NOT in the opening. What you're doing is creating a notch in the front leg that will fit in the triangle opening between the seat supports and the seat.

(This part gave me some grief. Let me tell you, if you have a circular saw or a table saw, USE IT! I was able to do this part with a jig saw, but I would not recommend it!)

Step 7

This is what your leg should look like once you've cut the area that does NOT fit in the opening between the seat support and the seat.

Step 8

Insert the notch that you just cut out into the gap between the seat supports and the seat, and drill. I drilled from the outside of the seat and through the seat support (using 5 screws, total)

Step 9

Now's a good time to dry fit both of your components. DO NOT GLUE! Screw from the inside of the seat, measuring 11" up from the bottom of the back legs. If everything is level here, move on to the next step.

Step 10

Attach your 3/4" Ply or MDF. You can do so by using pocket holes along the perimeter, or by screwing it to your seat supports. I found this easier to do while the chair was still assembled.

Step 11

Disassemble your chair, and cut your foam to fit. You will be upholstering the pieces separately. I was able to upholster the entire chair using a single 84" long curtain panel.

Some things to note:

- Upholster the seat first, use that as a reference for where to cut the foam on the back (since the seat will take up a couple more inches, you can't use foam down the entire back)

- bring the fabric on the back all the way down to 11" from the bottom of the leg. That's where the seat is going to start, and you want it to start uniformly.

- there should be no fabric where the seat will be screwed together. Upholster the seat and back completely, then cut the fabric from the area you will be screwing through.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

mydeen (not verified)

Tue, 01/03/2012 - 02:53

Hello sir, i realy happy about your website because i got some useful ideas from your web side for my furniture projects.
Thank you with kindness.

moonhopping

Sun, 01/15/2012 - 23:36

I am wondering why would you shape the back with a jig and not use an angled cut? I love the chair but i am not confidant enough inmy jig saw skills to try it

Thanks

claydowling

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 04:24

Shaping the back with a jig saw or other turning saw is quite traditional, and makes for the strongest back. If you have access, a band saw would be even better, and the ideal would be to make one leg, make it perfect, and then duplicate it with a router and pattern bit. Lady Goats' method is perfect though for a small shop that doesn't have a fortune to invest in tools.

I hadn't paid much attention to this post before, but I'm really impressed with the construction. I haven't done a full chair yet, just a couple of stools. Some day, I'll build cool chairs.

moonhopping

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 22:09

Thanks guys. Gonna get myself a box of fresh blades for my jig saw and a stack of wood, then practice, practice, practice. Lucky for me i am going to make the toddler size. Only way to improve is to do.

Lady Goats

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 18:08

Clay's absolutely right (of course). Using an angled cut and joining the boards would definitely affect the integrity of the chair. If you'd prefer, you can use your circular saw for most of the cut, and use the jig in the small area to finish it off (I just realized there's really no way to completely use the circular saw on that). Or... PRACTICE! :-) Get an extra board or two (maybe an extra $3?) and practice before giving your final "go"!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!