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Kentwood Bed

pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
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How to build rustic camp style pine bed! Free step by step plans include everything you need to DIY furniture!

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pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff

Can you believe that this bed is made with 2x4s?

Now in fairness, anything Brook touches becomes awesome.  This I know.  But I still can't help but stare at this beautiful bed!

Brook writes:

To give the wood the aged look I mixed steel wool with vinegar and painted it on with a paintbrush.  After it dried I brewed a couple bags of breakfast tea and painted it on.  Then I dry brushed on some silver paint in a few spots to give a little added texture and shimmer.  The whole bed got a couple coats of polycrylic to protect the finish.

So there you have it.  2x4s, steel wool, vinegar, breakfast tea and some dabs of silver paint.  The secret recipe to beautiful rustic simple furniture.

I've shared the step by step plans below, and I hope you take a second to stop over and read Brook's post on building and finishing this bed.  Thanks Brook!

And here's the plans!

Dimensions
pottery barn kids kentwood bed frame knockoff
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1/2 sheet - 3/4" thick plywood, measuring 4'x4'
  • 2 – 2x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1x3s for slats or box spring
  • 1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4" finish nails
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4" plywood @ 24” x 37 1/2" (panels)
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 37 1/2" (panel trim)
  • 12 – 1x3 @ 17” (panel trim)
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 48 1/2" (headboard legs)
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 29 1/4" (footboard legs)
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 45 1/2" (top of footboard and headboard)
  • 2 – 2x8 @ 75” (siderails)
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 75” (cleats)
  • 10 - 1x3 @ 39” for slats or use box spring
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Go ahead and drill 3/4" pocket holes around side and top edges of both plywood panels. These holes are for attaching legs and top in later steps.

Step 2

Then add the top and bottom trim to fronts. TIP: you can also Kreg Jig the slats (next step) to top and bottom trim before attaching.

Step 3

Attach slats, spaced as shown in diagram.

Step 4

Now for the headboard, attach longer legs.

Step 5

Step 6

Footboard is same as headboard, only uses shorter legs. I like simple :)

Step 7

Now let's build those siderails! If you have a boxspring, you probably want the cleat attached at lowest possible position. Without a boxspring - using a slat system - you might wish to attach cleat at highest possible position - 1" down from top edge.

Step 8

Attach siderails to headboard and footboard.

NOTE: For easier assembly/disassembly you can buy special bed hardware for attaching siderails.

Step 9

And finally, add slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Twin Beds and Twin Bed Frames
Room
Teens
Bedroom
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

sherx2 (not verified)

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 11:41

WIll you be doing this in a queen size version?
Also how could you just make the headboard and
attach it to a (free standing) metal frame
for matress and box springs.
Thanks!

Ana White

Fri, 03/16/2012 - 11:27

Hi!  For a queen size, I'd recommend a few changes.  First, I'd like to see the headboard just a little taller.  You can do this by just cutting the legs on the headboard longer as shown in the diagram above.  This will create a gap between mattress and headboard, no biggie if you are using a box spring.  The other option is to make the headboard panel itself taller.
I also made the headers 2x3s to match the overall larger scale of the bed.
I recommend using a box spring to support the mattress.  If you must do slats, you will need to add a center support, and most likely, a "5th" leg to the center of the bed.
Hope this all makes sense!
Also siderails are 80" long for a 60x80 queen.

CGCouture

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 11:50

You mention being able to purchase special hardware to make assembly/disassmbly easier, but I have no idea what it's called or where to find it. Could someone please provide that information? Thanks!

This bed is awesome, I have changed my mind about which bed I want to build for my husband and I's room several times over now....I'm paralyzed by indecision! ;-)

claydowling

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 11:59

The general term for it is knockdown hardware. In this particular case, you're probably going to be happiest with bed frame brackets, which are sold by Rockler among others. A cross dowel nut might also work, and Tage Frid had a slick little trick he could do with a t-nut, a dowel, and a bolt, so that the hardware was almost completely hidden. The Tage Frid trick is documented in his book on furniture design (book 3 of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking), if you want to get completely DIY about it.

Carrie Wittenberg (not verified)

Fri, 03/16/2012 - 08:05

I used the brackets from Rockler on the Farmhouse Bed I made for my sister. It takes a little work with a hammer/chisel to get them mounted nicely but they work great when they're done! The rails come unhooked on both ends so you can take the bed apart into 4 pieces (headboard, footboard and 2 side rails).

Just be sure you start making the holes for the hooks to slide into with the bracket mounted right side up. I made that mistake and couldn't figure out why the hooks weren't sliding in. Turns out that they were resting on the mounting screw because I put the bracket on upside down! Easy fix but I sure did feel stupid!

Sara Jayne (not verified)

Fri, 03/16/2012 - 10:51

We have built two beds of our own design, using some of Ana's as a starting point. We use deck hardware to put the side rails on so then you can unscrew it to take it apart for moving. It's about $20.

Rachel Harwood (not verified)

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 18:03

I was thinking I would just make my girls matching headboards for their beds, but now I'm thinking I might make them matching beds instead! Love this bed! :)

I'm sure I can figure out how to alter it for a king single bed, I'll just measure the mattresses that we already have and adjust the sizes of the wood to fit.

Michael Brooking (not verified)

Fri, 03/16/2012 - 13:52

I think the work you are doing is great and very inspirational. I have been looking for project ideas for a king size bed. Will you be positing dimensions for this project or is there already a place they can be found for a king?

tcsal (not verified)

Thu, 03/22/2012 - 19:40

I love this bed and can't wait to make it for my son. Can this be made in toddler size?

Angela Stallings (not verified)

Sun, 03/25/2012 - 09:01

I love the bedding in the picture, the gray and white comforter, with the green quilt underneath! I've been looking for something similar for quite some time, where did you find the bedding?

Brook @ BeingBrook (not verified)

Thu, 03/29/2012 - 15:31

The green quilt is a cheap one from Target. It was $25 or so for the sham and quilt. I think it is the Target Brand. The striped duvet was $20 and is also from Target. It's the room essentials brand (if I remember correctly!)

The quilt I've had for a year or two and it washes up really well and hasn't faded or frayed at all.

Walter (not verified)

Tue, 04/17/2012 - 23:27

Great design. I am going to attempt this on my own, but I have a question: do you have any suggestions on scaling the plan for a full/double bed? I gather that the width of head/footboard are approx. 6.5 inches wider than the width of the mattress, but I'm at a loss as to how to adjust leg lenth, etc. Any advice would be really appreciated.

WK

Walter (not verified)

Tue, 04/17/2012 - 23:28

Great design. I am going to attempt this on my own, but I have a question: do you have any suggestions on scaling the plan for a full/double bed? I gather that the width of head/footboard are approx. 6.5 inches wider than the width of the mattress, but I'm at a loss as to how to adjust leg lenth, etc. Any advice would be really appreciated.

WK

ginabeena12

Thu, 05/22/2014 - 19:47

Hi! I noticed that there were a large amount of requests for the full size plans. Did anyone ever get a hold of the full size plans?? I think that they would be great for my sons room but he already has a full size mattress and box spring.

Thanks so much for the help in advance!!

mggarrett

Thu, 04/26/2012 - 19:08

I really love this design! However, I was wondering if you had a full / double version?
I have 4 teenage boys and they share rooms. Therefore, I was looking at building a full/double size loft with this design and then this same design for the full/double size bed below cabin style. Do you have any suggestions / plans? Also, I would need to install knockdown hardware for when we move...any suggestions? Thank you!!!

Marci (not verified)

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 13:50

I was wondering if you could provide suggestions for repainting a bed with similar board patterns to the color(s) of the bedframe you have constructed. How do you create that two tone effect? What colors were used? Technique?
My bedframe currectly is two toned but in a Lighter color.

Obviously, I'm a newbie! Thanks for any help you can provide.

candyfdz

Wed, 06/27/2012 - 12:45

I would love to make this bed but with a trundle. I have two boys and a smalll room. Any idea if this could be done? Would love some input. Thanks!!

Lindsay (not verified)

Thu, 06/28/2012 - 08:57

I really want to make this for my boys' room, but it's a small room and would be overwhelming as is, so I want to make a headboard only. This would be my first project, and I'm nervous about trying to dissect the wood needed and cut list for just a headboard. Would it be possible to post supplies needed and a cut list to just make a twin headboard, please? Thanks!!!

klmarggr (not verified)

Tue, 07/17/2012 - 08:49

A co-worker just showed me this site and I am in love!!! I have a 3 year old that I need to get into his own bed but would like to build him a full size version of this bed. Does anyone have plans for a full size? Thank you so much!!

klmarggr (not verified)

Tue, 07/17/2012 - 08:56

A co-worker just showed me this site and I am in love!!! I have a 3 year old that I need to get into his own bed but would like to build him a full size version of this bed. Does anyone have plans for a full size? Thank you so much!!

Shields Taylor (not verified)

Tue, 08/28/2012 - 05:57

Do you have plans to make this a full size bed?

Vanessa Z (not verified)

Wed, 01/02/2013 - 17:45

Do you have these plans converted to King size?

keesha_irwin

Thu, 04/03/2014 - 18:14

Hello! My son saw this bed and has asked if i would make it for him! He has a full size. Are there plans for this? Or do i just make the cuts width-wise 6.5" longer? I would make the headboard a little taller a well....thoughts? Suggestions?

smithj33_aw

Sat, 07/05/2014 - 20:45

I just built this bed and it was easy. Looks great as well. A couple things to note:
First, this bed is wider than it needs to be. Pottery Barn beds are 42" wide and this one is 44.5" for some reason. Wish I would have noticed beforehand. 2.5" is a big difference. It puts the rails on very inside edge of the posts which looks a little awkward and makes it easier to hit your toes walking by.

Second, if you choose to use bed rail hardware, make sure you account for the extra width. My hardware added 1.75" to the width of rails which means there is a lot of space between the mattress and the rail.

Third, the bed is crazy tall in the stock height. You will most likely end up trimming some off the legs.

I am going to see if I can take some of it apart to narrow the whole thing, but it won't be easy. Great plans overall, but think your project through before assembling.

morrisaaron

Sun, 05/31/2020 - 01:18

This is an excellent sturdy bed! I just got done building one for my tall 3 year old. I decided to color match paint to his pottery barn gray dresser, so I took time to sand and fill a little more.

I used Rockler 5" bed rail hardware to attach the rails to the frames.
I used Valspar (lowes) Cabinet & Furniture Enamel and sprayed it on with a Graco Truecoat gun.
For primer, I sealed the knots with Killz oil based primer, and then sprayed the rest with Killz 2 latex primer (I already had these on hand, otherwise I would have used a Zinnser product).

The bed is a 8" Simmons memory foam from costco, so I built it as a platform bed, using 15 slats (39" 2x3, spaced out every other slat).

You can see my results here, I'm very happy with it for my first major woodworking project. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hQbnJivh2Kf9Xaw48

I also already had a collection of Ryobi tools including their cordless circular saw and brad nailer. I picked up the orbital sander (OMG its awesome). I already had the Kreg rip cut guide which made it fast and easy to cut the plywood square without owning a table saw. I also bought the cheap $20 kreg jig kit and that worked fantastic.

Project took a total of about a week and most of it was just waiting for paint to dry between coats and then harden up for a few days before final assembly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!