Outdoor X Base Table

outdoor x table plans
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Here's a beautiful, stylish and easy to build outdoor table that you can build with basic materials!  This outdoor dining table features and X base and planked wood top.  Add outdoor chairs or build your own benches to match.

This is a free, step by step woodworking plan with detailed diagrams, shopping and cut list - everything you need to build your own outdoor table!

RELATED PLANS: Outdoor X Base Benches

 

Reader submitted photo by AJW

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Outdoor X Base Table

 

Dimensions
diagram showing X picnic table dimensions
Standard table height. Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 – 2×6, 12′ Length
  • 1 – 2×6, 8′ or Stud Length
  • 1 – 2×4, 8′ or stud length
  • 1 – 2×2, 8′ Length
  • 7 – 1×4, 8′ Length
  • Wood Glue
  • 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
  • 2″ Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • Finishing Supplies (Wood Filler, Paint, Stain, Sandpaper, Sealer)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 38 1/2″ (Ends mitered back at 45 degrees as shown in step 1)
  • 5 – 1×4 @ 30″ (Supports)
  • 7 – 2×6 @ 71 3/4″ (Tabletop Boards)
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 61 3/4″ (Side Aprons)
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 40 1/4″ (Ends cut at 45 degrees, parallel)
  • 8 – 1×4 @ 20 1/8″ (ONE end mitered down 45 degrees off square, measure to fit on legs)
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 64 3/4″ (Stretcher)

Instructions

Step 1

Apron Ends

Cut your apron ends as shown above. The angles on the ends are 45 degrees. You will need to cut 2 of these.

Step 2

Table Frame

Start by marking your table side aprons (the 1x4s 61 3/4″ long) every 10″ (this does not have to come out exact). Use these marks to guide you as you attach the supports, as shown above. Use 2″ screws and glue. Then screw the side aprons to the end aprons from step 1. Make sure you square your project at this step.

Step 3

Tabletop Boards

Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue to fasten your tabletop boards as shown above. Remember, if you want to use your table for outdoor purposes, you should leave a 1/4″ gap between the boards. You can use a flat carpenters pencil as a guide. This will increase your overhang on the ends by approximately 3/4″, if you choose to ad spacing between your boards. One tip a reader suggested is examining the ends of your boards. Each board will have a “bark” side or a side that the grain bends away from. Alternate the bark side up and the bark side down as you lay your tabletop boards. That way if your boards do “move” as wood can do, the boards will expand in a complimentary fashion, minimizing any tabletop warping.

Step 4

Tabletop board orientation

If you are using the table outdoors, bark side down will avoid cupping, and create better water drainage. The above photo is an exaggeration, but even the slightest amount of crowning will keep water (the enemy) from pooling on top of your outdoor table.

Step 5

Building the X Base Frames

Attach at the center with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.

Step 6

Attaching Legs to Table Base

Finish the legs by attaching the remaining leg trim pieces using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Hide your screw holes by attaching from the insides. Then using the 2 1/2″ screws, fasten the legs to the side aprons, centering the legs on the side apron.

Step 7

Stretcher

Your table is going to need something to keep the legs from spreading appart – think dragging the table from the end. The amount of leverage on those top screws would be quite strong. So to keep your table together you can do a cross braces from the center of the Xs to the underside of the table. But I choose to keep this super simple and do a 2×2 as a stretcher so that most any beginner could tackle this project. Simply use the 2 1/2″ screws to screw the stretcher to the legs, in the centers of the X. TIP – once one side is fastened, use a level to determine where the other side should be fastened.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
If you are using your table outdoors (or even indoors) I highly recommend paintable silicone. You can also use wood plugs for a more finished look. But wood filler is my best friend. Paint or stain as desired, seal with an appropriate exterior waterproof sealer if you are using outdoors.

Comments

teamshield (not verified)

Wed, 05/05/2010 - 01:22

Ana:

I was all set to build your other outdoor table, but now this?!? Which to choose?

Thank you thank you for all your hard work. I am obsessed with your plans, have a list of what I am making next and talk about you constantly.

Leslie (not verified)

Wed, 05/05/2010 - 01:49

OMG, do you ever sleep? :)

Thanks for this great plan. However, I echo the above post in wondering which plan to choose. There are so many amazing choices. I guess I'll have to build them all!

Have a super day!

kch (not verified)

Wed, 05/05/2010 - 03:59

Love the table and I'm dying to enlarge it and make it for our new (giant, 12 seater) dining room table. Question: The cut list mentions a 2x4 but none is listed on the shopping list. Is the 8' 2x6 supposed to be an 8' 2x4?

Michelle "Chao… (not verified)

Wed, 05/05/2010 - 04:26

The table is so simple and functional...which makes it even more spectacular. Like a little black dress that can be dressed up or down. I would love to be a fly on the wall to see just how long it takes you to knock out a knock off.

It was so much fun to figure out that the table owner lives just a hop, skip and jump away from me.

Melissa (not verified)

Wed, 05/05/2010 - 20:50

I love this table! I wish I had somewhere in my house I could use it. We're going to be using one of your other plans for a dining room table. Maybe it could go in our spare room as a work table. Hmm....

Karen (not verified)

Thu, 05/06/2010 - 03:01

Gah! I came here *hoping* for this. My husband's birthday is in 4days and, since my birthday was yesterday, he got me the present I was planning to give him (AGAIN! We may be too compatible!). Now I need a good gift and came here just hoping to find this exact table (a big people version of the bigger kid's picnic table) so I can build him a patio set as a gift. You rock :)

Sheela (not verified)

Thu, 04/28/2011 - 17:40

Her table was featured in the "I did it" section at the end of Better Homes and Gardens this month (I think that's what the section is called). I knew the table looked familiar, and that's because I saw it here! Very cool, and congratulations to Vanessa!

April Brady (not verified)

Sun, 10/02/2011 - 16:27

Hello, Me and my husband just love this table and are going to build this for our home during these chilly fall days but he was wondering if you fastent the top of the table to the legs from the top or underside of the table. He is a little confused. If it is indeed from the top do you use the wood putty to fill in the holes? thanks for explaining!

Audrey (not verified)

Mon, 04/30/2012 - 04:25

Has anyone determined how to fasten the top? Drill from above or below?? I am stuck...

GuestAmy (not verified)

Tue, 09/04/2012 - 06:26

To anyone that has built this table... Do you have any complaints about the sturdiness of the table due to the legs being made of 1x4s? I'm debating whether or not to use 2x4s instead.

Thanks!
Amy

Chellie (not verified)

Mon, 11/26/2012 - 07:01

The shopping list only mentions 1-2x6. Do I actually need 7 since those are the tabletop boards?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!