Becca Wood Trunk

pottery barn trunk free plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a vintage style chest or trunk from plywood and whitewood boards!  This beautiful trunk is perfect for a coffee table or a bench in the entryway.  We love it throughout the home.

Our step by step plans and include detailed diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

 

Why We Made this Wood Trunk

Look what you can make with a 1/2 sheet of plywood!

My friend Whitney at Shanty2Chic wrote me about taking on a vintage styel chest or trunk build.  I can't believe we haven't posted one already.  We worked on plans together and came up with this beautiful trunk!

You'll need a 1/2 sheet of plywood (Whitney used PureBond for the beauty and because it's formaldehyde free) and then some base moulding, 1/4" plywood for the base, a few 1x6 boards for the top, and of course pretty hardware.  I love that you can make it your own by using different moulding, hardware or a different finish!

 

Reader Testimony - Why This Trunk is a Must Build!

From Whitney:

I love this new chest we created!  It's so pretty and functional at the same time!  You can easily change up the hardware or throw a coat of paint on it and you give it a whole new look.  I think this is a great beginner Kreg Jig project for those of you still looking at yours in the box ;-) Thanks so much for teaming up with me on this one Ana!!

 

Build Post and More Photos of this Wood Trunk

Please take just a second to stop over and check out more details and photos from Whitney.  It's always nice to see construction details!

Thank you Whitney!

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Becca Wood Trunk

Dimensions
plywood trunk diy project plans dimensions

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4x4 (half) sheet 3/4" plywood cut into 15 3/4" wide strips x 4 feet long
  • 4x4 (half) sheet 1/4" plywood or other hardboard
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (furring strips are fine)
  • 20 feet of 3 1/4" base moulding
  • 10 feet of 1x6 whitewood boards or similar
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 36" x 20 1/4"
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 20 1/4"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 15 3/4" x 18 3/4"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 15 3/4" x 36"
  • 4 - 3 1/4" base moulding @ 36" (both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree bevels, short point to short point measurement)
  • 4 - 3 1/4" base moulding @ 20 1/4" (both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree bevels, short point to short point)
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 10 1/4"
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 37"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10 1/4" x 10 1/4"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

I chose to make the base like this to cut down on weight and cost in the project, and also to elevate the base from the floor. That way if there's water spilled, it won't rot the bottom out on your trunk. But by adding the 2x2s underneath, we create a system where the weight rests on top of the joints, resulting in a stronger bottom. You can just nail and glue the base to the 2x2s - nothing special here!

Step 2

Now construct the main box out of the plywood pieces as shown above.

Step 3

And then attach the base to the bottom. You can just screw and glue or nail - remember, the weight of the trunk pushes down on the base, keeping everything together. We'll also be hiding the joint with base moulding.

Step 4

Cut base moulding to fit with your miter saw set at a 45 degree bevel. I tend to cut my pieces just a tiny bit long and then trim them down to get a perfect fit. Nail on. Be careful here to select a nail size that fits your moulding thickness plus the 3/4" thickness of the plywood. Use glue too. NOTE: You can use a wider base moulding too!

Step 5

Step 6

Then add the end 1x6s to finish off the top. Having a planked top will add more character and all the plywood edges are covered too!

Step 7

Use exterior mount hinges to attach trunk top. If you have kids, you may consider adding a hinge top support to keep the top from slamming little fingers.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

ajaninaimasafi

Wed, 04/10/2013 - 19:49

I want to rush out and buy plywood to build this. But can someone explain how I can make all of these cuts with just 1/2 sheet of plywood before I run to HD? Is 1/2 sheet 2x4 or is that a quarter sheet?

audsh

Mon, 02/24/2014 - 11:25

HI
as i said in my other comment above, i dont have a pocket hole jig. Not easy to come by where i am. I have made the trunk and am about to start the lid but was wondering if i can join the lid with dowels instead?

mattmasulis

Sat, 09/27/2014 - 22:52

The Kreg Jig is $40.00 at Lowes but if that isn't doable I can't see why you couldn't use dowels and plenty of glue. You will want to make sure your boards have had time to expand or contract in the temperature you keep your house for a few days though to avoid contraction later.

bzhayes

Thu, 04/16/2015 - 08:26

Did you install any soft down stay type hinges on the inside of your trunk? I ordered some from Rockler and was not able to make it work. I believe it is because of the angle of the lid (3/4" thick) and the perimeter of the actual trunk (1 1/2 "). Any suggestions on what you used? Thank you!

Linda7

Wed, 04/29/2015 - 14:10

Hi...I am in the process of building this trunk, too. I ordered the toy box lid support from Rockler (item #26179), and I see that I'm going to have to cut out a space in the moulding for this and the type of hinges I also purchased. I'll check back in a few days to see if you figured out something. (I always end up making things harder than they should be. lol)

Brandon55

Wed, 12/16/2015 - 20:22

So I'm building this as a storage trunk that will be used for blankets and clothes. I like the look of the stain I'm using by itself, it is not a 2 in one stain and poly. I am curious if the stain wil transfer to the things I'm storing in the trunk?

jendon

Sun, 05/15/2022 - 20:07

This project held two purposes: Father’s Day and my husband’s shoes/backpack. This was the perfect way to get them off of the floor and into something beautiful!
Both of my teenage kids help with different aspects of the build.
I will list what hinges and handles I used after reading all the other posts on this Becca Trunk.

I did make my carcass taller and longer than the plans to hold my husband’s items plus some couch blankets. I have 4 supports on the bottom instead of three. I only used 3/4” hard plywood. I added an inch to each side of the lid, so it was easier to open. There are 2 coats of stain and 2 coats of 3x interior gloss poly made by Varthane on this trunk. I sanded with 320 sandpaper in between each coat of poly.
After reading all the posts about hinges, soft closing and looking at each picture, I came up with Torsion Hinges by Rockler. These hold up the lid at all different angles and give a soft close once lowered to a certain point.
I installed 2 sixty pound bronze torsion hinges with the assistance of their Hinge Jig. That helped me to make my lines and pre drill marks without guessing. Rockler has several videos on them and how to install, plus several on YouTube. I bought them on Amazon for less than the site and sold by Rockler. I did chisel out a small rectangle of the molding and it was easier than I thought. I was so nervous after building it all and now cutting some out of it, but it worked! I did one and my son the other one. The Rockler Jig was very helpful lining all this up. My hinges are 6” in from each side of the trunk. I set the lid in the right spot and drew lines where the hinge jig rest in my chiseled spots. Then flipped it over and lined up the jig again on the lid and knew where my holes were going.

I have just received my 3 set of handles. The others were not chunky enough for the size and the proper look.
Adonai Hardware "Phebe" Antique Iron Drop Pull (Supplied as 2 Pieces per Pack) - Black Powder Coated. I also got these on Amazon.

This trunk took time, but it was well worth it. So beautiful and worth it. My husband was so surprised and also knew it was for his shoes/backpack. He appreciated all the detail that went into it and lived that the three of us built it together for him.
Thank you Ana and Shanty 2 Chic for the plans and pictures. They are always so helpful. I have made many of your builds and I am learning from each one. Thank you again.
Blessings,
Jennifer

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!