Farmhouse Canopy Bed Frame (All Sizes)

farmhouse bed with canopy black canopy bed
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Need an amazing bed on a budget?

Build your own farmhouse bed frame with canopy with off the shelf building lumber! Our free step by step plans include diagrams, shopping and cut lists for all standard mattress sizes.

Want a bed without a canopy?  Check out dozens more easy to build bed frame plans here.

Want to convert your existing Farmhouse Bed into a canopy?  We have plans to do that too!

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Want a statement making bed?

A few years ago I did some episodes for HGTV and needed a show stopper of a bed for a garage turned bedroom makeover.  So of course we looked to our farmhouse bed plans - just made it fancier with a canopy.  Because everything is fancier with a canopy, right?

We love the simplicity of this plan!  It's not much more to build than a standard farmhouse bed.

Do note we did substitute the planking for a plywood panel - but you can still use planking if that is the look you are going for.

 

Farmhouse Canopy Bed Plans

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, you can find them here.

 

 

Dimensions
dimensions for farmhouse bed frame with canopy woodworking plans
Dimensions shown above - 7" longer and 7" wider than standard mattress sizes, 80" tall

Preparation

Shopping List
Board Twin Full Queen King Cali King
1x4 1 @10' 3 @ 6' 3 @ 6' 3 @ 8' 3 @ 6'
2x4 7 @ 8' 5  @ 12' 5 @ 12' 11 @ 8' 11 @ 8'
2x10 2 @ 8' 2 @ 8' 2 @ 8' 2 @ 8' 2 @ 8'
4x4 4 @ 8' 4 @ 8' 4 @ 8' 4 @ 8' 4 @ 8'
3/4" plywood 48" x 48" 48" x 96" 48" x 96" 48" x 96" 48" x 96"
1x4 Slats 5 @ 8' 7 @ 8' 7 @ 8' 10 @ 8' 11 @ 6'
Common Materials
Cut List

Assumes the following mattress sizes:

  • Twin 38" x 75"
  • Full 54" x 75"
  • Queen 60" x 80"
  • King 76" x 80"
  • California King 72" x 84"

 

HEADBOARD Cut List

Board Twin Full Queen King Cali King
2 - 4x4 @ 80" 80" 80" 80" 80"
2 - 2x4 @ 38" 54" 60" 76" 72"
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 30"x38" 30"x54" 30"x60" 30"x76" 30"x72"
1 - 1x4 @ 38" 54" 60" 76" 72"

 

FOOTBOARD Cut List

Board Twin Full Queen King Cali King
2 - 4x4 @ 80" 80" 80" 80" 80"
2 - 2x4 @ 38" 54" 60" 76" 72"
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15"x38" 15"x54" 15"x60" 15"x76" 15"x72"
2 - 1x4 @ 38" 54" 60" 76" 72"

 

SIDERAILS Cut List

Board Twin Full Queen King Cali King
2 - 2x10 @ 75" 75" 80" 80" 84"
2 - 2x4 @ 75" 75" 80" 80" 84"

 

SLAT SYSTEM Cut List

Board Twin Full Queen King Cali King
2x4 Cleats 2 @ 78" 3 @ 78" 3 @ 83" 4 @ 83" 4 @ 87"
2x4 Center Legs     2 @ 15" 4 @ 15" 4 @ 15"
2x4 Top Tie In 1 @ 38" 1 @ 54" 1 @ 60" 1 @ 76" 1 @ 72"
1x4 Slats 10 @ 38" 21 @ 31" 21 @ 31" 10 @ 76" 11 @ 72"
Cutting Instructions

Cut boards with a compound miter saw.  You can alternately use a circular saw with guide if necessary, but do make sure your cuts are very square.

The plywood panels should be cut with a tablesaw or circular saw.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x4s and attach to the 4x4s with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the top and sides about 8" apart (but not the bottom) back side of the headboard panel. 

Attach with a 1" space behind (and 1-1/2" space in front) to the 4x4 legs.  This means the headboard panel is set up from the back edge of your 4x4 legs by 1".

Use 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to attach.

Step 3

Use 1-1/4" brad nails and glue to attach 1x4 trim piece to top of headboard panel.

Step 4

Repeat steps to build the footboard.

 

Step 5

Paint or stain the footboard, headboard and the sideboard pieces shown before moving into the room.

Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the top 2x4s.

Drill three 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x10 siderails.

Move pieces into the room.

Assemble the bed with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Build the center support framing.

The twin size does NOT need any center support.

The queen and full should have one center support (as shown in the diagram)

The kings can have one or two center supports.  If you are using 3/4" thick bed slats (see next step) I definitely recommend two center supports.

Step 7

Lay slats inside bed and screw down.

The mattress slats can be split to minimize material waste and also to use up scrap wood.  You can use 3/4" plywood strips, any 1x material scraps, etc to fill in the slats.  I don't like to leave more than 4" gap in between the slats.

You should check with your mattress recommendations for the best slat system.

Step 8

Optional 1x2 trim can be added around the top of the headboard and footboard panels to give the bed more dimensions.  I did this with my bed.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

yurra-bazain

Fri, 07/11/2014 - 19:45

Lovely bed, Ana. :) So happy for you and all the people you'll reach on national television! We're going to have a hand-built revolution, I think. =D (We don't have cable; will the shows broadcast online?)

mebohn

Sat, 07/12/2014 - 19:29

We also do not have cable and am wondering if it will be online at any point. Congrats on the show!!

mebohn

Sat, 07/12/2014 - 19:29

We also do not have cable and am wondering if it will be online at any point. Congrats on the show!!

spiceylg

Sun, 07/13/2014 - 14:34

Just watched your show and loved it. The bedroom came out amazing. However, there isn't another show at 5:30 :( . Instead Rehab Addict is on.

Chantal V.

Mon, 10/20/2014 - 09:35

Silly question perhaps... Is this for a double or queen?  I would like to make it for a double bed and add curtains on a track or a rod for my son who has sensory issues.  Thanks in advance for your reply!

Chantal V.

Mon, 10/20/2014 - 20:14

Oh! :(. My son really likes it.  I am not that great at altering plans for a double.  Does anyone have all the measurements for a double using 4x4 posts?  Much appreciated for the help!

Charleston Braces

Fri, 11/07/2014 - 07:35

I was wondering if there was a way to make this with bed without using screws since I want to be able to dissassemble and reassemble it a few times over the next few years due to work related moves.  I recently made a bunkbed for my boys from Ana's wonderful plans and it can be disasembled and reassembled using bolts and nuts.  I worry that unscrewing and screwing will weaken the fastening over time.  Or maybe there is a way to do it with hangers or straps?  Of course if I could have it all, I would make it so you cannot see the bolts at all!!!

Thanks,

 

Sal

Charleston Braces

Fri, 11/07/2014 - 07:41

I was wondering if there was a way to make this with bed without using screws since I want to be able to dissassemble and reassemble it a few times over the next few years due to work related moves.  I recently made a bunkbed for my boys from Ana's wonderful plans and it can be disasembled and reassembled using bolts and nuts.  I worry that unscrewing and screwing will weaken the fastening over time.  Or maybe there is a way to do it with hangers or straps?  Of course if I could have it all, I would make it so you cannot see the bolts at all!!!

Thanks,

 

Sal

lawschool_builder

Sat, 11/08/2014 - 20:20

I was also wondering if there is a way to build this piece so that it can be disassembled later when moving? Or is it already capable of being un-screwed easily? Thank you! Also, if anyone has any modification recommendations to avoid the use of a mitre saw I would appreciate it! 

 

-Jacq

joecpa

Wed, 12/10/2014 - 13:20

The plan appears to be for a full since the interior measurements where the box spring will go are 56" a full size mattress is 54" a queen size mattress is 60" So a queen size box spring will not sit down inside the frame.

Mtwinkoff

Mon, 01/12/2015 - 17:49

I love the bed that you built and also love the wall in the back round And have been wanting to put a wall like that in my house and was wondering how you got all the wood in so many color variations did you use stain or just several different reclaimed woods .If you had any info that can help me I would deeply appreciate it.

ssl4847

Mon, 01/19/2015 - 06:58

At the risk of sounding like a boob, can we receive directions utilizing 2 x 4's as well? 3 x 3 are hard to come by where I live and I don't trust myself to make the conversion in my head.

Ana White Admin

Mon, 01/19/2015 - 11:37

Check under "shopping list" Ana says "you could also use 4x4s, but will need to adjust the rest of the boards to 2x4s and their cut lengths"

timex10

Mon, 03/09/2015 - 20:46

you don't by chance have this plan in a king size. i would like to build it for my wife as an anniversary present.

In reply to by timex10

AnthonyAugustLarson

Sat, 03/03/2018 - 10:48

Hey timex10, I have been looking for this bed plan with bolts instead fo screws and in king size also.  I'm NEW to this kind of thing so hope to find the plans by somoene who is experienced instead of guessing myself.  If someone posts it or Mrs. White replies or you find it somehow can you please let me know?  I can do the same for you.  Thanks, AAL  [email protected] 

Mr.NiceLady

Mon, 09/28/2020 - 10:36

The plans for this bed were spot. On. I added 2x6s for the top side beams to make it more sturdy. I also added extra features that, on another bed bought from a specialty store, would have made the total cost of the bed around $5k. No kidding. I made this one for UNDER $500 including the purchase of a new jig and saw. Can't say how grateful I am to have a very, very sturdy bed and to have saved SO MUCH money. Thank you from the bottom of my kinky heart!!
Miel's Oso

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!