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Modern Craft Table

Craft Table
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own project table or craft table with free plans from Ana-White.com

Features lots of open storage, a large desktop perfect for crafts, seating on both sides, and a modern design.  

Step by step plans with diagrams, shopping list and cut list, all free!

Collections
Mod Modular Office

 

 

 

 

 

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Modern Craft Table

 

 

 

Dimensions
DIY Craft Table Plans
Overall Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 – Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF (Can use 1/2 sheet, tabletop will be 6″ narrower) for the tabletop
  • 3- 8′ long 1×12 (Tops and Small Shelves/Two Large Shelves and One Bottom)
  • 1 – 12′ long 1×12 (Ends, Dividers)
  • 1 – 12′ long 1×10 (Small Bookshelf Sides)
  • 7 – 8′ long 1×2
  • 2 – 8′ long 2×2
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ Screws or 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

Cut List for Project Table (Two Bookshelf Bases and One Top)

  • 2 – 1×12 @ 37 1/4″ (Bookshelf Tops)
  • 2 – 1×12 @ 33 1/2″ (Bookshelf Ends)
  • 2 – 1×12 @ 32″ (Bookshelf Divider)
  • 2 – 1×12 @ 36 1/2″ (Bookshelf Bottom)
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 27″ (Large Shelves)
  • 4 – 1×10 @ 34 1/4″ (Small Bookshelf Sides)
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Small Shelves)
  • 8 – 1×2 @ 27 3/4″ (Large Shelf Side Trim)
  • 8 – 1×2 @ 31 1/4″ (End Trim)
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 13″ (Small Shelf Top and Bottom Trim)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 36 1/2″ (Floating Base Sides)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 8 1/2″ (Floating Base Ends)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 38″ x 54″ (Top) (For 1/2 sheet of plywood, top is 38″ x 48″)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 10″ (Floating Base Ends)
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 36 1/2″ (Floating Base Sides)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Begin by measuring and cutting all your boards. Mark out all joints before any assembly. If you are using pocket holes, drill all pocket holes. If you are using screws, drill pilot holes. Attach the pieces with 2″ screws and glue or 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws and glue. Keep outside edges flush. You can optionally attach the shelves (orange) with shelf pins to create adjustable shelves

Step 2

This is where that nailer would be handy. Attach with glue and 2″ finish nails the small bookshelf sides. Leave 3/4″ under the bottom and make sure you also attach to the center divider (Back of small bookshelf).

Step 3

You can either place these shelves with shelf pins or use finish nails and glue to secure in place.

Step 4

Attach the large shelf trim to the sides, keeping top edges flush, with 2″ finish nails and glue. If you are using a Kreg Jig™, build a face frame separately, then attach with 2″ finish nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

If you are using pocket hole screws, build your face frame separately, then attach with 2″ finish nails and glue. Otherwise, nail the trim on with 2″ finish nails and glue.

Step 7

Attach the small shelf side trim with 2″ finish nails and glue.

Step 8

Use 2″ screws and glue to attach the floating base sides to the bottom of the bookshelves.

Step 9

Attach the floating base ends to the bookshelf with 2″ screws and glue.

Step 10

Use 2″ screws and glue to attach the floating base ends to the underside of the tabletop. See measurements above for placement.

Step 11

Attach the floating base sides to the ends with 2″ finish nails and glue.

Step 12

From the underside of the bookshelves, screw into the floating base with 2″ screws. You may wish to finish the edges of the tabletop with edge banding or nosing for a more finished look. Finish as desired.

Project Type
Desk, Desk Systems and Project Table Plans
Bookshelf and Bookcase Plans
Room
Craftroom
Storage Solutions
Style
Modern Style Furniture Plans

Comments

jojabis (not verified)

Sun, 09/12/2010 - 22:28

we had been just toying around with the idea of this very thing for my bother-in-law thank you

rcasbeer (not verified)

Mon, 09/13/2010 - 03:54

After the low bookcase was posted last week, I was trying to think of how I would build it with three shelves and a little shorter. This is perfect. Thanks!

Build The Ulti… (not verified)

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 11:12

[...] today is because a few days ago she shared a project that is a crafters dream!  She calls it the Mod Modular Office Collection Project Desk, my sewing friends and I call it The Ultimate Crafting Table!  So if you have a handy hubby, dad, [...]

Kristen Peterson (not verified)

Mon, 01/17/2011 - 22:04

This is so cool! I have not done a lot of DIY so this sounds a bit tricky, but with a handy boyfriend and your helpful schematics, I think I can do it! Knock off decor sent me over to this link and I think I'm going to find some amazing projects to do! Thanks for sharing you advice!

Liz (not verified)

Thu, 03/03/2011 - 10:30

I love this project and need a table like this.

I was wondering if there's a way to have a see-thru top?
so I could shine a light up to make tracing patterns easier.

any suggestions?

dan-k

Fri, 04/08/2011 - 16:24

I have three options for ya:

Buy a large smooth glass cutting board and jigsaw out a hole in the desktop to allow the cutting board to sit flush with the top.  You'll have to build a ledges around the inside of the hole to support the cutting board at the right height.
 
A local glass company can sell you piece of 1/4" glass to cover the whole desktop. They will cut it to fit and polish the edges.  You could then have a movable piece of the desktop that would allow you to shine a light up from underneath.   Think trapdoor on hinges.

Order a small piece of 1/4" tempered glass to use to build a stand alone lightbox. 

Yes you could use plexiglass, but it will get scratched and cloudy over time.

JoyofBaking

Wed, 03/23/2011 - 07:34

I LOVE THE NEW SITE AND I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU TOOK CHARGE AND DID THIS ALL YOURSELF!!! 

Seriously, I love this.  I finally joined and am now putting together my to-do list.  Thank you SO MUCH for providing this wonderful resource.  It means so much.

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 04/08/2011 - 15:01

Does anyone know if the fabric drawers that you see at Target, etc. will fit on these shelves?

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 06/06/2011 - 06:05

Just went to Home Depot yesterday, bought all the materials needed & cut all the boards, can't wait to put it together today! Will post pictures of it later! :) Though we may be making a few modifications on a table I had seen that looks just like it, but with a few different ideas!

CourtsRae (not verified)

Thu, 08/02/2012 - 17:41

I see your post was from a year ago. We just went to Home Depot today and bought all the supplies!! Can't wait to get this started. Anyone have ideas of where to get a cute chair like those shown?

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 13:56

Can you people give me an idea of the cost of all materials to get table finished? my craft room looks like a mess and I think this table and some shelf are going to be the solution to my headaches :)

thx

Margaret Kubiszyn (not verified)

Wed, 01/25/2012 - 16:43

You can take the materials list and go to lowes.com and price it out pretty quickly!

dgwheeler24

Thu, 02/06/2014 - 15:16

I know its been a while since you commented, but if you make it at the 54"x38" it will be perfect for the large cutting mats sold at Joann's Fabric. The cutting mats are 54" x 36".

dgwheeler24

Thu, 02/06/2014 - 15:17

I know its been a while since you commented, but if you make it at the 54"x38" it will be perfect for the large cutting mats sold at Joann's Fabric. The cutting mats are 54" x 36".

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 03/03/2012 - 13:40

My husband went to Lowe's this morning and got to work cutting. We ended up short on a couple boards. Anyone else have this problem?

claydowling

Sat, 03/03/2012 - 17:19

The first rule is that you should never trust a cut list/shopping list that you didn't come up with yourself. I also try to add on 20% to the materials buy to account for waste.

MaryT19 (not verified)

Sat, 05/12/2012 - 21:29

This is exactly what I wanted for my craft table so I can store my fabric in bins on the sides and maximize my space! Thank you so much!

ShannonCloss

Sun, 10/07/2012 - 20:40

Hi there (Ana maybe!),
I am an Aesthetician and I love the crafts table. I was wondering if there is a way to cut out a "u" shape or even half moon so that if I were to be working with clients I want it to be comfortable to do manicures and such things. I don't want to lose out on any of that storage under the desk, that is really what caught my eye. I'm new to working with wood (very new) but I found your work inspirational for me and other women out there.

Thanks!

KimberlyS

Tue, 03/12/2013 - 10:13

I loved this project and it was perfect for my sewing needs. I set out to build it right away. I purchased all the wood and made all the cuts according to the cut list. However when I started piecing it together I realized that my 1x10s measured 1/4"shorter than what the plan accounted for. So I had to go back and re-cut ALL my small shelves, the top and bottom, and the long piece that made the shelves floating. I decided not to shorten the table top and the long floating piece of the table top by 1/4" however. That was my choice, but technically it should have been done! Please be warned of this snafu as I was not too happy having to re-cut all my wood.

Also check to make sure that the purchase amount of wood will be enough. I followed the plans from the book and the amount of wood listed to buy was not enough! I had to go back and buy an additional 2x2, 1x12 and 1x2. I didn't have to purchase the full 8' but when I added up all the inches you needed for each of these sizes the number of inches needed was more than the total I had, not accounting for the loss you get from the saw blade and not being able to use all 8' of the board because of cut lengths, etc.

I hope this keeps at least one person from having to go back to the lumber yard and from having to re-cut your wood! Despite the hassle I love how my craft/sewing table turned out! I'll be doing more projects from this website, and the book for sure!

keithanna.sowell

Tue, 01/21/2014 - 12:42

I love the table. My fiance and I will be making this table this weekend. I was wondering if you have the plan for that chair too. I love how it goes together. Thank you. :)

wannacraft

Wed, 02/04/2015 - 09:26

I want to build this table and I am so green. How do you get the wood pieces so smooth.

jamiejohnstone

Wed, 02/25/2015 - 11:07

Absolutely LOVE this craft table! How tall of stool would go best with this, Counter Height at 24" or Bar Height at 29-30"?

Apbling

Sun, 03/01/2015 - 12:20

Hi all. Just looking at the plans for this desk. The gf loves it so I sat down with a pen and paper and started to figure some things up. I was very surprised to see the actual cost of this desk to be sort of high. Am I seeing this right, but the only plywood piece is the top, the rest is solid wood. I looked today but at HD a oak 1x12 was about $6.50/ft. That puts the total cost of this desk much higher than the estimate. I was thinking of a way to use plywood, but I'd be adding veneer trim or solid wood trim all day long to make the ends look nice.

Anyway, does anyone have any hot tips on where or when to get cheap wood? I'm considering just getting a planer and ordering the wood and cutting it down to size.

scalpel_shredr

Mon, 03/02/2015 - 06:25

Unfortunately, Home Depot does not carry 1x10 and 1x12 in the cheaper wood in stores. You must go to Lowes. Lowes has 1x12x8 for roughly $8 and the 1x10x12 is the only expensive piece at about $23

Apbling

Mon, 03/02/2015 - 11:12

Ok I will check lowes. I am assuming by cheaper board you are not talking cabinet grade oak but just what is referred to as "common" board? I'm not opposed to common boards, but they usually are not that straight and I worry about how well they will take stain.

sweet-2nd-chance

Tue, 03/24/2015 - 16:52

You could use select pine boards or poplar boards. Both are less expensive than oak and much nicer quality than common boards and are readily available at Lowes or Home Depot. We've made furniture pieces out of common boards and structurally they are fine but they did take a little more work to find the straightest board and correct or work around imperfections in the wood. If you use store bought stain, common boards, select pine and poplar all take it just fine. If you are worried, use wood conditioner first. If you are using homemade stain like vinegar/steel wool stain, 2x4s and common boards turn a lovely grayish brown while nicer wood like select pine, Purebond plywood and maple plywood turn a strange black/gray in my experience.

creationsbylarose

Mon, 08/08/2016 - 14:07

I realize it's been over a year since you posted this, but I couldn't help saying something. When you run into difficulty like this don't forget to check out the possiblities of re-using good pieces of reclaimed wood. I use pallets, barn wood and sometimes scrap wood from our local lumber yard. I then purchase only the large pieces that are needed, such as plywood etc to complete my projects. I really think this project could be done for less than your total of $155 if you could use reclaimed wood. Also, just as a tip, paint can be very expensive if you buy it right off the shelf. Shop around and find all the mistint or return paints at your local hardware or home improvement stores. I have found colors I would never have thought of but absolutetly love for usually 50% of the original price. Another saving tip, when you upgrade your office chair and are going to throw out your old, save the wheels. You may need them for another project down the road and will be happy you saved them. In other words, never stop crafting or building because something is too expensive....just look for an alternate way to build. I guess I'm taking forever to say "think outside of the box" to complete a project that at first glance seems too expensive. I hope this helps you or anyone else who reads this to re-think using new lumber ONLY and will encourage you to reuse that old dresser you were going to throw away, or pick up a pallet on the side of the road. You will be amazed at the results!

kkrummel

Thu, 09/03/2015 - 19:34

Is there any chance you could fix the link to the .pdf plans? Also, do you ever share your sketchup plans?

 

Thanks!

blanco_negro

Thu, 12/17/2015 - 11:38

Has noone brought up the fact that the plans tell you to get 2 8-foot 2x2s (196 linear inches) yet the cut list requires you to use 220 linear inches? 

 

4 – 2×2 @ 36 1/2″ (Floating Base Sides) - 146 inches
4 – 2×2 @ 8 1/2″ (Floating Base Ends) - 34 inches
4 – 2×2 @ 10″ (Floating Base Ends) - 40 inches
 

146+34+40 = 220, which is over 18 feet. You only have 16 feet of 2x2. Has NO ONE noticed this yet? Am I missing something?

Joann6274

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 02:53

Hi there Ana,

 I was just wondering if you can clarify the sizes for me?   You say that  we will need 3-8' 1x12 for example... so I am taking this as we need three of the same size wood pieces ...   but i'm assuming the  8' 1x12 is equivelent to 8 feet ..but what does the 1x12 mean? Can you please clarify for me? I want to make this but I want to get the right measurements and understand them. 

Thanks!

creationsbylarose

Mon, 08/08/2016 - 13:56

I love this desk as it has so much storage capability. I think that this desk has many varying uses for all types of crafters, artists, etc. Thank you Ana White for all your amazing and creative ideas! You give inspiration to all of us!

svandagriff

Thu, 03/07/2019 - 16:08

Hello Ana, Love the YouTube videos!

My wife wants me to build this craft table for her, but I cannot download the PDF. The link isn't working. Is there another place it can be downloaded? 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!