Counter Height Bar Stool

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Counter Height Bar Stool

These stools are ideal for a kitchen counter and I made them to fit ours which is about 36 inches from the floor.

I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a question then please email me at [email protected] to let me know.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 by 2 - 8 ft lengths - Qty 3 1 by 2 - 6 ft length - Qty 1 1 by 3 - 6ft lengthh - Qty 2 1 by 4 - 8 ft length - Qty 1

Common Materials
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 by 2 24 2 Front Legs 2 by 2 45 2 Back Legs 2 by 2 14.5 2 Bottom rails for front and back 2 by 2 15.5 2 Bottom rails for sides 1 by 2 14.5 1 Seat trim for back frame 1 by 3 14.5 6 Rails for front and back 1 by 3 15.5 2 Top rails for sides 1 by 4 18.5 5 Seat

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Join the two shorter legs measuring 24 inches together using one of the 14 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 14 ½ 2 by 2. I placed the bottom edge of the 2 by 2 rail 4 ½ inches up from the bottom of the leg and drilled the pocket holes for the 2 by 2s on the bottom edge so they are hidden from sight. The 1 by 3s will be hidden by the seat so you won’t see the pocket holes on the inside once seat is fitted. I decided to make the outside of the top rail flush with the outside of the legs rather than inset.

Step 2

Join the two longer legs measuring 45 inches together using 4 of the 14 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 14 ½ 2 by 2. I placed the bottom edge of the 2 by 2 rail 12 inches up from the bottom of the leg. I spaced the rails out by 2 inches which left a gap of half an inch from the top of the top rail to the top of the leg. Tip : Cut two scraps of wood two inches long and use them as spacers when fitting the back rails If you look at my finished photo, the diagram below actually shows the back of the chair. The part you lean against actually has the 1 by 3s inset by ¾ inch (so they are flush with the back). I put my pocket holes on the back side and made sure I filled, sanded, filled, sanded and repeated until happy the holes would not show. It is time consuming but worth the end result.

Step 3

Join the front and back together as shown. On each side use one of the 15 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 15 ½ inch 2 by 2. Make sure you are consistent with the top rails so that on all sides they are all either flush with the outside edge or inset by ¾ inch.

Step 4

Add the back 1 by 3 rail so the top of it is flush with the top of the two side rails and it is flush with the front of the leg as shown. Drill pocket holes facing upwards on the inside and fix the 1 by 2 measuring 14 ½ inches to it.

Step 5

Step 6

Drill pocket holes on the inside of the frame facing towards the top to use to screw the seat on. Place the top good side down and place the upturned chair frame on top of it. Make sure you have an equal gap around the edge and fix with pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Sand well to smooth out the joints and remove any wood glue residue. If staining then apply Pre-stain and your choice of stain or paint as desired.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used
In the photo shown I used two coats of White Semi gloss paint without a primer and sanded it back a bit to show some grain through.
Project Type
Room

Comments

sylvialh

Tue, 12/15/2020 - 06:20

I did glue and pocket holes. I didn't want to risk people getting their thighs pinched if there was any movement (an issue I had with the simple backyard series bench)

sylvialh

Tue, 12/15/2020 - 06:20

Seems like the cut list and the shopping list are not properly formatted and makes it really hard to read as it's all in a row instead of a list

thanks for another great build, I'm really excited to build these with a molded plywood back. I'm using a 1/8 veneer and gluing them together to form the back rest.

ClrH2OFL

Thu, 07/22/2021 - 12:51

Materials
(3) 2x2x8
(1) 1x2x6
(2) 1x3x6
(1) 1x4x8

Cut List
(2) 2x2x24” Front Legs
(2) 2x2x45” Back Legs
(2) 2x2x14.5” Bottom rails for front and back
(2) 2x2x15.5” Bottom rails for sides
(1) 1x2x14.5” Seat trim for back frame
(6) 1x3x14.5” Rails for front and back
(2) 1x3x15.5” Top rails for sides
(5) 1x4x18.5” Seat

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!