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4x4 Truss Beam Table

ana white truss beam table farm style
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the truss beam farmhouse table! This is a gorgeous dining table featuring a 4x4 base and a planked top.  It has been built hundreds of times and loved all over the world!

This is a free step by step woodworking from Ana-White.com, featuring diagrams, shopping and cut lists - everything you need to build your own wood dining table.

Why We Built this Truss Beam Table

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  

Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!

 

Matching Bench Plans!

The matching bench plans are also available here.  We also created a premium plan bundle to download the complete set of plans and keep, including a building guide.

Build the Complete Set with Premium Plan Bundle + Building Guide

Upgrade to the premium Truss Beam Table & Benches plan for printable instructions, detailed diagrams, cutting layouts, shopping lists for two benches, finishing tips, and a distraction-free experience.

Truss Beam GuideTruss Beam Table PlanTruss Beam Bench PlanCut Layouts

 

 

 

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4x4 Truss Beam Table

Dimensions
truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
Cut List
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 35"
  • 4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 65"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 65"
  • 4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)
  • 2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it.

Tips for Pocket Holes

This plan uses Pocket Hole Joinery.  For tips to using, please watch this video:

Instructions

Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Table Plans
Dining Table Plans
Room
dining room
Style
Farmhouse Furniture
Rustic Furniture Plans

Comments

momofour09

Mon, 09/23/2013 - 16:16

I already have a partially finished table in the garage. But with what we need to buy to finish it I feel like making this one would make more sense. If I can convince him this will be on my "to do within this century" list. Whitney never ceases to amaze me and these look so much easier (not that the others are complicated) than some of the other tables. I have 4 kids so we need a sturdy table, no question.

dee708

Sat, 10/26/2013 - 19:16

I LOVE the Truss Beam Table! It's exactly what I've been looking for. However, I would love to build it wider than 37". I was thinking of using 3-10" boards and 2-8" boards for the top, plus 10" breadboards on the ends with more support underneath. I was planning to add 2 more 2x4s underneath for support of the wider width. Do you think this is doable? I've never built anything of this size before and I'm nervous to change the plan without more direction. I'd love any advice you could give... Thanks so much for sharing this!

wingnut2000

Wed, 04/07/2021 - 12:21

I built a table for my dining room similar to this one with one of Ana's plans and I am building another for my sister like this one. On mine and I plan to do on hers as well, I took and notched out the 4x4 out 1.5"x3.5" for the 2x4's to run past the 4x4 leg support and provide support for the bread board. Stop about 3 or 4" from the end of the table and I also cut the end of the 2x4 at a 45 to dress it up if someone looked under the table lol

Cindyclev

Fri, 07/18/2014 - 13:31

Can you please tell me the color and brand of paint used in this dining room pic? It's beautiful! I am going to make this table too :)

3girlslater

Wed, 12/03/2014 - 18:07

We are looking to build this table soon. Has anyone had problems with the top expanding and contracting? We live in the Midwest and it tends to be dry here in then winter and humid in the summers. Thanks for any help. 

jhancock42

Tue, 01/06/2015 - 09:56

Yes, it is. Biscuits are great for alignment. Just make sure the edge jointing and glue up is done well. But just for the top. The biscuits would not work well strength wise for the butt joints used in this table.

Megs204

Mon, 02/22/2016 - 11:50

I love the idea of building a table so that it will be exactly the size I want.  I'm hoping to seat 10 people around it, so the interweb tells me it will need to be 120" long. Obviously the top will be longer as well as the center beams and aprons. How about the cross supports? Leave as is? Change the angle to make them longer?

 

lwinstone

Thu, 04/21/2016 - 11:56

How many chairs can sit at this current size of table? I would also like to fit 10 at the table, and was wondering how to change the plans to fit that accordingly. I am going to make this in a wood shop class.

gaddyzt

Thu, 06/23/2016 - 08:05

Where do you get your wood from for all of that material to only cost $150? Everything I find is way more expensive than that.

jeremysavoy

Wed, 09/07/2016 - 05:39

Just curious if jointing/planing  the table top boards so that it's completely flat and also so that there are no gaps between the boards (I have 4 kids 7 years old and under, lots of crumbs) would distract from the otherwise rustic / primitive appeal of this peice. Obviously you could still distress the top and round off the edges of the comleted top. I suppose one could joint/plane the entire project as well. Obviously this increases time and costs as you're likely not buying standard dimensional lumber, but that aside - thoughts?

billy78

Sat, 10/15/2016 - 23:34

I totally love this rustic table. Will make a great addition to our dining room! Thank you for the plans!

piper41955

Thu, 11/03/2016 - 22:51

The breadboard ends are supposed to be more than an asthetic detail - in practice they should allow the table top to expand/contract/move without cracking. This is normally done using more complex joinery, gluing and screwing the ends most likely defeats this entirely since the entire top would be held rigid.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:36

I just built this table, and it depends on how you do your screws.  I used the Kreg jig to make a pattern on the table top that gives it a bit of dress up.  I tend to over-engineer things, so with my table top alone, I'd say I used about 60 screws.  I didn't bother with the 2 x 4s under the table, and I also left off the 45 degree pieces off the center truss... It is more than sturdy enough without all that.

 

 

adklima

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 06:24

I love this table and plan on starting it this weekend. If I want to get some extra support for the breadboards what would you suggest? Also, is there plenty of room to put chairs on the ends or should the breadboards be extended?

Thank you in advance for any replys.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:40

I used all 2 x 10s and there was no need to extend the breadboards.  I'm a big guy (6'3") and with the way the trusses are designed, my knees fit with no problem without extending them.  I ran two screws top and bottom into the breadboards from each of the lengthwise 2 x 10s, and as long as no one tried to push themselves up using the table, they are rock solid.  I had debated reinforcing them with bolts from underneath, but with the way I lined up the 4x4s underneath, I had enough support.  I also used true 4 x 4 (eastern white pine), not 4 x 4s from the box store that actually measure 3.5 x 3.5".  

 

Best advice I can give anyone doing this table:  Spend the extra money and go to a real lumber yard and get nice wood.  It will save you time, effort and money in the long run when you're not stuck fixing warps, twists, cracks, etc.  

staci424

Wed, 02/22/2017 - 20:59

Awesome plans! These plans just specify to "build" the leg sets but I've seen a lot of videos where people use 6 inch torque screws to attach the legs, and the kreg jig like the Shanty girls did. I would love to know the measurement of how far to position the jig from the end of the work piece as well as what setting to use for the depth collar for the 4 inch material? No matter where I look I can't seem to find either of these settings for 4 inch material. Should I also use 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws for the 4 inch material as well? Would help me out a ton! Thanks a bunch =)

rafusea

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 00:18

A friend of ours helped us with this table and after reading so many comments about the breadboard ends and the possible lack of strength we decided to frame the table top in. I was upset at first because I really loved the look of the breadboards but we wanted to make sure that this table lasted through our big family dinners and our little girl who is going to be putting this table through the ringer once she gets older. So happy with the results. We LOVE this table and the plans were great. We adjusted the size a bit to fit our benches. 

The only small issue we are having is the smell from the polyurethane coats on the table itself. Not sure if we used the wrong product or not but oh boy the smell is strong. We brought the table in our house yesterday but we are taking it out today because the smell is so strong and we don’t want our 1 year old to be exposed to the strong odour. Did anyone else have this issue? If so, what did you do about the smell, if there is anything you can do? If you didn’t have this isises, What product did you use to seal the table?

Thanks again for sharing such beautiful plans with us!! Can’t wait to tackle more projects...hopefully next time on our own!

Ngus

Fri, 01/12/2018 - 14:04

Has anyone had any issues with this table cracking over time? A video I watched with a woodworker stated that the breadboards on the ends don’t allow the wood in the middle of the table to expand thus leading to the wood cracking over time. I dont want to spend all the time making this if it is going to break. Thanks for any guidance! 

Ravin1keys

Wed, 01/24/2018 - 05:33

My space isn't big enough for the actual length in the plans. How do I go about altering the plans for a shorter table ? 

New to building furniture. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. :)

AndyAlva

Tue, 02/20/2018 - 12:47

This plan is incredible. I love the simplicity of the build both in the aesthetic and the actual process. My only beef, though, was the lack of direction with pocket holes. I ended up adding four extra PHs per 4x4 when I noticed the beams slightly bending away from each other when under weight. Something to potentially note, S2C. Otherwise, everything was easy and inexpensive! Keep killing it, gals! 

aderosa

Tue, 03/27/2018 - 07:44

This table is my next project and I'd like to get started soon.  I am debating on the wood.  My husband wants me to find some good wood, like at a specialty lumber shop.  But I was planning on using pine from Lowe's for a few reasons:  it's convenient for me to get, if I screw up a cut it's not too expensive to get a new piece, it saves money to use pine, and if I sand it well enough it can look very nice.  Thoughts on type of wood for this table....

Thanks!

Brian Famous

Tue, 03/27/2018 - 20:13

My outdoor version of this table, which I built about 4.5 years ago, is made from cedar.

http://famousartisan.com/outdoor-farmhouse-dining-table/

It cost me about $400, but was well worth it.

 

I wouldn't recommend cedar for indoor use though.  I'd also, personally, skip on pine.  It will dent, scratch, and just generally not wear well over time.  I think you might be able to get away with it for the base (particularly if you're open to painting it), but would use a better hardwood for the top. 

Though, if it's your first table build, doing a pine top first may be a good idea.  You can always replace it in a few years and wouldn't have that much money invested in it.

bclute

Fri, 05/18/2018 - 13:15

I am not a professional builder at all, but I will say I have done a couple projects with the pine from HD or Lowes.  We had a farmhouse table custom built and I am pretty sure the guy just bought his wood from big box as well.  The table was sturdy and looked great, but after a couple months the wood started to shrink and/or dry up.  Spots that were covered when he stained, now show and are unstained. Not sure if better wood will fix these issues.

erniegeneva

Mon, 10/14/2019 - 18:22

Thank you for the plans to this table.  I used a mix of Kreg, biscuit, and mortise and tenon joinery to assemble the parts.  Also used a router, jointer and planer to mill the boards prior to assembly.  I've made the table in cedar, douglas fir, pine, and now oak.   

rico

Mon, 10/28/2019 - 09:34

Truss is backwards.  FYI

I am a concrete furniture fabricator and made this base for a customer for a concrete dining table.  This design probably suffices for a wooden top but if you are making something heavier reverse the 45 degree supports.  The weight from the center of the table needs to be carried down to the legs, not the center of the bottom 4x4 stringer.   Aesthetically the plans might look nicer reversed but as a former general contractor I couldn't bring myself to build a backwards truss even if my top wasn't 400 pounds.  That said, as designed here the two 45's do provide the the second function of sheer bracing (think rocking from end to end) so you want them installed securely.

pollettm

Tue, 02/11/2020 - 06:59

Hello, 
 

I was just wondering if I don't have a HD Jig, can I add pocket holes on both side of the beam? 

I just have the R3 jig right now. 

Thanks in advance.

airtrucker

Sun, 08/09/2020 - 20:43

I didn’t have a good night for it either. I drilled 5/8s hole through different places and then screwed into the different beams. Then to cover it up I glued a 5/8s dowel in the hole. I did sets of 2 and three. Dowels will be visible though but I like the look a lot.

debaril82

Fri, 03/06/2020 - 03:26

I love this table! However, my space is smaller. Can someone help me to make it a 6ft table instead of the size it is now? 

jmueller@grani…

Mon, 05/11/2020 - 11:51

Hi i love this table and would like to make mine 10' long by 4' wide. Can anyone help on updating the wood dimensions/cut list or provide me with insight as to how best to do this? Thanks for any help. love this site!

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Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!