1. Home
  2. Plan Catalog

Drop Cloth Parson Chair Slipcovers

|save this plan
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Create slipcovers for parson chairs with french pleats with this sewing pattern.

Yesterday, I got a tweet from @sewfearlessly asking if you can sew, can you build?  And my reply is definitely, if you are crafty and can sew, I bet building is going to be easy for you.

But here is the real question: If you can build, does that mean you can sew?

Up until recently, I would have said maybe.  Because when you build (at least anything from Adub.com) it's all about straight boards and straight cuts.  On the contrary, fabric and patterns aren't always straight.  I've struggled with sewing.

But last week, my sister was visiting, and she mentioned she needed a new couch, one that had storage, and one that costed next to nothing.  So we built her a couch (I'll be blogging it very soon) and I sewed.  But I designed the plan so that all the sewing was point A to point B, straight lines.  And guess what?  The sewing was not that difficult.

With half a drop cloth leftover and Grace too sick to go to the garage, I decided to use up the scraps to sew a slipcover for my parson chairs. And guess what?  You, yes you, can do this.

It's all straight lines.  And it's a perfect fit to our parson chair plans.

Don't stress about the knife pleat hem.  It's surprisingly easy (and beautiful!).

And the slipcover fits how it should - snug but not tight, tailored but easily removable for washing.

And one more of the table

Cannot wait to move this into my dining room . . .

Want to build your own?  The table plans are here and the parson chair plans are here.  Couch plans are on their way.  And here is the slipcover plans:

Preparation

Shopping List

1 small paint drop cloth, 10mm thickness
white upholstery thread
Parson Chair from these plans

Cut List

2 – 18″ x 16″ (Pieces A for Seat and Seat Backrest)
1 – 18″ x 6″ (Piece B for Front Apron)
2 – 16″ x 6″ (Pieces C for Side Aprons)
1 – 18″ x 21″ (Piece D for Back)
2 – 21″ x 3″ (Sides)
1 – 18″ x 3″ (Top)
1 – 7″ strip 12 feet long (for knife pleats, spice fabric together to create 12 feet)

Cutting Instructions

Make sure you prewash your drop cloths prior to cutting.

Instructions

Step 1

Cut Fabric

Use a quilter’s mat, square and rotary cutter to cut out all the pieces as directed in the cut list. If your fabric has a direction, be careful to cut in the right direction.

Step 2

Sew Seat to Aprons

Start by sewing the front apron to the seat along the front edge, with 1/4″ seams. Then start at the back and sew the side aprons to the seats, stopping 1/4″ from the end of the seat edge, with needle depressed in fabric, rotate the fabric to sew the front apron to the side apron. Repeat on other side.

Step 3

Fit Seat

The seat should look like the above photo if you have done step 1 correctly. Adjust seams as necessary.

Step 4

Back and Sides

Now sew the back (not the seat backrest, but the back back, measuring 21″ long x 18″ wide) to the sides as shown above with 1/4″ seams.

Step 5

Step 6

Fit Back and Seat

If you did step 4 correctly, the back should slide onto the back of the chair like a snug sleeve. Fit to and adjust if necessary. Remove and again, start at the center of the back of the seat and the bottom of the backrest, with right sides together, sew the back to the seat, turning corners to sew the side apron to the side. Repeat on the other side.

Step 7

Fit

If you did step 5 correctly, your slipcover should look like the above diagram – a snug fit but not too tight, with all corners lining up, and any differences showing up along the hem and not in the slipcover. You can simply hem the chair at this stage or you can opt for fancy knife pleats.

Step 8

Knife Pleats

Looks to complicated? Yeah, I thought so too. But consider this – what you see above is my first attempt at knife pleats and I did not have to do any ripping. You can do this! Simply cut your fabric into strips 7″ wide, and sew strips together until you have a piece that is 12 feet long. Then press with a steam iron the entire strip in half lengthwise. Then press the knife pleats into the strip (I eyeballed mine, but you can measure if you want exact knife pleats). Then simply start in the back, pinning right sides of the slipcover to the knife pleat raw edge, all the way around. Sew. And then trim the ends and sew together. It is really really simple. Want a step by step tutorial?

Step 9

Check out Pink and Polka Dot’s tutorial That’s how I learned!

Oh, and you can make the pleats longer for a more formal, longer skirt, or just use a tradditional gathered skirt, but you cannot simply make the aprons longer – won’t work for this chair. Good luck, and here’s to someone going for a really bold floral!

Project Type
Chairs
Room
dining room
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Toni (not verified)

Wed, 11/10/2010 - 21:52

OMG! I have to make this. Ana, you continue to amaze me. I can't wait to start some of these projects. I can't wait for the couch. Oh, and more nightstand plans would be so cool. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all that you do.

Jodi (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 03:01

(p.s. It's @sewfearless)

Great work, Ana!!  You wouldn't guess you are new to sewing. I love that you used drop cloth as your fabric.:)

 My dad has a PhD in MechE and he compares working with farbics with working with pieces of sheet metal. I guess if you have that kind of mind, the material is irrelevevant. :)

If you ever have to sew along the curve it helps to draw your seam line in the fabric just like you might mark your screws in wood working. And If you ever have sewing project questions, let me know. I would be happy to help. I love getting people excited about sewing!

Now to convince my husband of my crazy Cubby System schemes, so I can start building!

Krista (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 03:32

You are Superwoman! I don't know whether to love you or hate you. All these things that I dream of doing and stress out over, you make seem like a piece of cake. I'm loving that slipcover and think I can do it - but better build the chair first!

Kristi~The Sli… (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 04:15

Ana,
thanks so much for the shout out! you're so sweet and those pleats are divine! the chair is adorable! i'm constantly pouring over your site for ideas...just haven't bitten the bullet to build anything yet. hoping for a table saw for christmas!

Beth (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 04:56

I noticed that you referenced adub.com in the above post, but when I went there, I don't think it's where I was supposed to be. (" Because when you build (at least anything from Adub.com) it’s all about straight boards and straight cuts. ") Is there possibly a typo? If so, what's the website that you were referring too?

lianatempera (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 05:38

Ana, you're amazing. I have to say that I'm a sewer first, and now I'm almost a builder. I'm almost done with my first big building project, thanks to you. Sewing and building are VERY similar--they're both basically putting puzzles together to make something beautiful and decorative and useful. They're both wonderful on their own, but put the skills together, and WOW, you get something even BETTER than either alone.

TheSimplePoppy (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 05:51

Building and and pattern making are similar, but pattern making is actually far more difficult because wood typically doesn't have boobs you have to fit things over :) Which might explain why building something is pretty nice when you've been used to pattern drafting!

You did an awesome job on those pleats!

HammerTime (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 07:31

Oh Ana, I just fall more in love with you every day. (In a perfectly healthy, non-stalker-ish way, of course!) Thank you, these are so adorable!

Cari J (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 08:36

This might be the solution to the problem I have with my dining room chairs, they have big gaps in between the slats on the back where food is constantly accumulating and I can't get it out! It might also save the finish on my chairs as it is getting destroyed!

Celestra (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 08:57

Love the pleat on the slipcover, so cute without being too fussy looking. Btw cannot wait for you to post the plans for the sofa. 10 year old sofa+ lounging hubby+ 2 kiddos+ 2 dogs= I need a new (cheap!) sofa or two : )

Stefanye Thurmond (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 10:14

Ana, you continue to amazing me! Your site is a constant source of inspiration. I'm so glad you're willing to do this. Your time and efforts are much appreciated.

Paula (not verified)

Thu, 11/11/2010 - 12:52

A couch! you don't know how excited this makes me. I've been dreaming all day of a chaise style couch/futon thing I can cuddle with my kids on and read books. We don't all fit on the couch comfortably.

audra (not verified)

Fri, 12/10/2010 - 04:58

Lurve these, u rock gurl!!!! I had a question, i want to make these, but i want them longer, like to cover legs, what would you suggest? Or should i say how would i go about it?Thanks so much

priscilla (not verified)

Mon, 02/07/2011 - 06:29

Anna,

Beautiful! I'm going to try to make the slip cover this week!
How many yards would you say for one chair?

Thanks!

ups (not verified)

Fri, 03/04/2011 - 05:28

Hi Ana,
First of all, thank you for sharing your wonderful projects. You did a very good job explainning and the pictures are very helpful. Second, I have dinning room chairs that the back rest is not a regtangle. It is a slanting (quite a bit) back. The back of the chair's dimensions are witdth =17"(top) x 14 1/2" and 20" tall and about 1/2 thick. Do you have any suggestions of how to come about this? I can't you your pattern because I can't put it on. I hope it does make sense to you. Thank you in advance.

Amydq

Sun, 05/15/2016 - 19:01

I need help.  I'm attempting to make these for my breakfast area, but having trouble.  I sewed the front to the seat and I'm stuck when you sew the seams together that go over the legs of the chair.  The directions make it sound like once you rotate the fabric you make a straight line, but it didn't work for me.  I don't think that I sewed the right sides together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!