Media Console

media console
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My Media Console. Features two cupboards with shelves and two large drawers. Raised design fits over air ducts and create the illusion of more space.

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Dimensions
media console dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. This media unit is designed to match the side bases here. Also note that the drawers require a 1×8 that measures 7 1/4″ wide. If yours don’t you will need to adjust accordingly or rip your 1x8s to width. Also, this plans uses 1x12s that are 11 1/2″ wide, but there will be no issue with a wider/narrower 1×12 – it will only affect a few cuts, and I’ll make note of those cuts. I choose to use a 11 1/2″ width for 1x12s because many of us make our own 1x12s by ripping (or having the Home Depot or Lowes rip for us) plywood into 11 1/2″ widths (conserves the most plywood).

Preparation

Shopping List

3 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long

5 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long

2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long 2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1×8 @ 12 feet long 1/4″ plywood (for door backs and optionally the back of the media center)

2 1/2″ screws or pocket hole screws

finish nails (if you don’t use pocket hole screws)

Wood Glue

Finishing Supplies including paint and primer or stain

4 – knobs or handles

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 1/2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 – 1×12 @ 19 1/2″ (Sides)
4 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (cut to the width of your 1×12 – side trim)
1 – 1×12 @ 57 1/2″ (Top)
2 – 1×12 @ 18 3/4″ (Center Partitions)
1 – 1×12 @ 54 1/2″ (Bottom of Box)
4 – 2×2 @ 23 1/4″ (Legs)
4 – 2×2 @ 54 1/2″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 57 1/2″ (Top Trim, Back)
1 – 1×3 @ 57 1/2″ (Top Trim, Front)
4 – 2×2 @ 16 1/2″ (Drawer/Door Trim)
4 – 1×8 @ 20 1/4″ (Drawer Front/Back)
4 – 1×8 @ 11 1/2″ (Drawer Sides – cut to the width of your 1x12s)
2 – 1×12 @ 18 3/4″ (Drawer Bottom)
4 – 1×3 @ 15 3/8″ (Door Top/Bottom)
1 – 2×2 @ 20 1/2″ (Drawer Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 13″ (Drawer Guides – 1×12 width + 1 1/2″)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Cut to width of your 1×12 – bottom drawer guides)
6 – 1×2 @ 11 3/8″ (Door Sides/Trim)
1/4″ plywood @ 15 3/8″ x 16 1/4″ (Door Backs)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Side Trim

Attach the sides to the side trim as shown in the diagram. You will need to do two of these. I fastened mine from the inside to hide screw holes.

Step 2

Box

Build the box as shown above. I used pocket hole screws (1 1/4″ long), but you could use glue and coutnersunk screws or even nails (lots of glue) – just make sure your fasteners are 2″ long.

Step 3

Legs

Attach the legs to the box, flush to the inside of the box and the outside of the side trim. Use 2 1/2″ finish nails or screws and glue or pocket hole screws from the inside.

Step 4

Front/Back Trim

This should be an easy step, but will strengthen up your piece considerably. Fasten same as legs. Also fasten legs to trim.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Front and Back

Finish off the top front and back as shown above. If you have a pocket hole system, you will want to have holes predrilled in the top 1×12 to attach the trim. otherwise, wood glue and screws will work (it’s fully supported by the 2x2s).

Step 7

Drawers

Build your drawer as shown above. Use either pocket hole screws or 2″ screws and glue. You need two drawers.

Step 8

Drawer Guides

I like to adjust my drawer guides to a perfect fitting drawer. Begin by placing the bottom drawer guides in place. You may need to shim this one up 1/8″ so that the drawer face has an 1/8″ gap under it. Glue and use 1 1/4″ fasteners to keep in place (hold off on the glue until you are happy with the placement of both drawers). Then add the top drawer guides (not the trim yet) until you have approximately a 1/8″ gap to the top of the top drawer and the drawer is sliding smoothly. When you are happy with the top drawer, fit the center trim in place and adjust your drawers as necessary. The ultimate goal is an even gap around both drawers and smooth sliding drawers. TIP: Rub bottom edges of drawers and drawer guides with a cheapo candle to have super smooth sliding drawers. See below.

Step 9

Step 10

Drawers

I stole this drawer part from the bases/nightstands because it’s identical (intentional). Here goes: When you cut your boards, make sure you measure the exact opening of your door, and leave 1/8 gap for a tight fit, 1/4″ (total gap, so that’s 1/8″ all the way around) for a roomier door. If you have a pocket hole system, build the door frame as shown above. You can use a countersink bit or wood dowels to build the door frame too. Otherwise, glue and nail to the back plywood. Keep in mind the allowance need for your hinges. Depending on the type of hinge that you are using, you may need to cut the plywood out around the hinge.

This is an advanced project because there are alot of pieces, and if everything doesn’t come out square, your drawers/doors won’t work properly. Please don’t attempt as a first project. Happy Building!

Comments

Nicole (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 03:15

I love your house, it's so beautiful! I bet if you left Alaska for a bit you would miss the look of your house. Everytime I have left Alaska I have missed it, just not something you forget. A different world, but a beautiful one up there.

Jennifer (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 03:37

Not only do I love this design I also adore it. Must work on developing my skills as a builder to do this one well.

Pam the Goatherd (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 04:21

I'm married to a rustic-loving guy, too! The way I have found to deal with this is to decorate our bedroom and the living room (where he spends the most time) with rustic, animal heads, dark paneling, earth tones. Then I have my sewing room where the walls are violet/pink with white trim. The curtains and linens are frilly and very light and airy. The furniture is white. We've been contentedly married for almost 17 years now, so my method must be working.

lorchick @ ON{… (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 04:33

My husband has the opposite problem as you... he wants rustic but it would just look out of place in our home! Some day we'll buy some property outside of town and go all-out with the Cottage Home look... for now, the white stuff just looks better.

lauralehman (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 04:40

Totally understand......I live with a farmer on a (currently) big muddy farm....hard to have a non-farm like home. LOVE the blue/grey. It's the new black! I'm trying not to use black as much as it shows too much farm dust!

Sheela (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 05:01

Ana, I'm so glad you didn't paint all the wood white. I looked at the beautiful moulding around your gorgeous windows and knew it wouldn't look right being white. Your home is beautiful, and it fittingly reflects Alaska. I like white trim, and I have it in my house, but in your house, the wood looks beautiful. And slate is gorgeous too, so I'm glad you put the paintbrush away.

By the way, this plan looks great. But what did you do with the other media console you made that was painted plum?

Kristi (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 05:20

Ana! Cute....I love this simple plan, and I may use this one in the future! Your house is BEAUTIFUL....so don't fret about it. Oh, by the way, DON'T get rid of your woodstove....it might come in handy someday! :) (I have one in my family room....takes up about 5 feet of wall....hmmmm.)

Natalie (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 05:44

This is awesome, thank you so much!! You know what is funny is that we are stationed in San Diego right now and after seeing picture of your home and reading your stories I told me husband the other day that it would be so cool if we got stationed in Alaska next. He said I would not make it, the SD weather has ruined me for life lol Can you believe that your website has not only inspired me to build but tempted me to give up 70 degree winters? Crazy, huh?

christy (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 05:45

Ana, we all know how much I love YHL, and you. And as much as white makes me go "oooohhhh", your house is amazing. You built it, and you are right. You live in rustic Alaska. Embrace it. I just said at dinner, could you imagine living like Ana, eating moose? My hubs, was like ... No. But that's wonderful. We all have different lifestyles, and design ideas. Be eclectic and embrace your home. If you need a YHL moment, why don't you make a video tour like sherry and john & post it to your journal? Or, spray paint some ceramic animals all white sherry style.

Megan (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 06:10

Ana, three months ago we moved from a modern townhouse in the middle of Seattle to a log house in the middle of nowhere. I feel ya. (my wood stove is backed w/ field stone and is massive- the hearth is about 12 feet. ) Here's to learning to embrace rustic.

Monique (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 07:10

Ana, beautiful console and I love the paint color. White paint has its place but I love COLOR! I wish there were more folks who would be a little daring with color. Love the new look of your blog too! Thanks for all you do.

melker (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 07:14

ana- think about how much better the distressed earth tones will tolerate children and dogs than the white.. that's what i tell myself when my husband says no to white... ;).. maybe ill have while when we retire.. but then i won't want to clean it. Thanks for the great plan!

Jenn Hoff (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 07:46

Hi, Ana! I like Pam the Goatherd's comment. My ex hated anything girly, so I just made my bathroom and guest room girly, since he never went in there. Then I would go in and just stare, and sometimes drool a little. :) It wasn't the reason we got divorced, don't worry. :)

Melissa (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 09:27

I remember reading once that you loved West Elm's blend of rustic and modern and I have to say that every time I see pieces from your home I think that you are blending both of those styles beautifully. I too am not a fan of rustic, but your home has lovely features that don't make it look too heavy and look like you live in a ski lodge. It is a good thing that you and your RAM can strike such a nice balance.

Laci Waner (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 10:14

Don't get me wrong. I love me some John and Sherry, but I also LOVE the color on your site and throughout your home. Speaking of color...how did you finish this piece. I have been putting off finishing several pieces (and waiting to take photos until they're finished), and this would be PERFECT!!!!
Laci
ps. FYI, we live in a rent house where EVERY single thing is white (seriously) with black stained concrete floors; so I'm dying for color!!

Anne (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 11:19

This post is so funny because my mom just went through that...she has a very dark living room (back of house without a lot of natural light) and has cranberry painted walls with wood trim, wood encased fireplace and wood wainscotting around the entire room. She finally after 20-some years just painted it white before Christmas. It looks AMAZING but took her a loooooooong time to work up the courage to do it!

Either way your house is awesome...white trim or wood trim :)

Melanie (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 16:57

About 20 times a month I think about just going for it and painting all of my trim white. And then I think of the work involved and the upkeep of keeping all of that trim/baseboards/doors white and I change my mind. Don't get me wrong. . . .I love the look, but I think if your colors and decor are right, the wood can look beautiful. I love your home and your color choices. Leave the wood how it is!!!

Nan Tovar (not verified)

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 05:13

Seriously love this console!
Would it handle a 60" TV?
Probably have to extend it a bit, and then add some extra legs, maybe.

Jo at the Crea… (not verified)

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 17:43

I have begun to really like the rustic richness of stained wood. I too, live on a farm and therefore the upkeep on anything stark white would be waaayyy more that I have time for! Thanks so much for all the great plans. I hope to make many of them. Love the color of the media cabinet also.

Che (not verified)

Fri, 02/11/2011 - 02:19

Just a question about this piece, since I am about to build it, is there no back on it? I don't see it in the plans or cut list.

Lindsey (not verified)

Thu, 02/17/2011 - 10:02

I'm glad you didn't paint the trim, I prefer the natural, contemporary, look of wood trim or floors with white walls.

I just moved from an historic Greek Revival in town (where everything was white and formal) to a newer, rustic, open floor plan, house in the country. It is an adjustment. At first I wanted to change everything, but now that I've lived in it a while, I recognize how cozy it is and the value of stained wood cabinets, floors, trim and doors when you have messy people and a big dog and scrubbing and touching up painted surfaces, isn't your favorite past time :)

We also live in an area where formal design just doesn't work. I'm reinventing my taste in both interior design and landscape design to work with our environment, rather than against it. I'm definitely starting to gravitate towards a more natural look, Earth tones, beige, gray, slate blue and green. I am often inspired by photos posted at remodelista.com.

birdsandsoap

Thu, 10/06/2011 - 12:17

I am a lover of all things coastal. My dream home would be some cape-cod style home with cedar shakes and I probably would throw in a dutch gambrel roof. But that's me dreaming.

I have this thing that goes against the moral fiber of my being when it comes to decorating homes. With the exception of kid's rooms, themes contrary to climate are not allowed. That means, as much as I love objects reminiscent of the ocean, I have to live with the reality that I am in Idaho, not near a coast, and it's technically a high desert. That would be the exact opposite. Coastal cannot be part of my decorating repertoire (look at me using big words).

It kills me, and I mean KILLS ME to walk into a house that's so themed out you feel like you are in Disneyland. Prime example: Nautical theme in Idaho. There is no ocean here, not even close. Don't fill your living room with boat anchors, rope vases, and seashells; don't hang life preservers and lighthouse pictures on the walls. Please. I know you say, "but it's a bathroom, there's water in here." Well maybe you can get away with a couple starfish in a glass hurricane on the counter, but that's it. Don't cross that line, or people will be paying admission to see your freak-show living room.

The same goes for the architecture of a home. You can't style a Victorian home to look like a modern Prairie-Style home. You just can't. It's like punching the home in the face. It's a disgrace to the bones of the house. Like Lindsey said, work with your environment, not against it.

So gussy up your cabin in all of it's cabin glory! Enjoy the warmth of the wood and leather things up! Match your interior colors to the beautiful nature surrounding you and don't look back. It may not make the cover of "Coastal Living," but you may just find yourself featured in "Mountain Living."

And don't worry, the era of white sofas will soon fade too....all things in time. By then I will be recovering my white sofa right along with you. I've noticed that southwest/cowboy decor is getting popular again, which means cabin-style is right around the corner, haha. When all the bloggers are bringing rich tones back into their decor (remember hunter green?) you will have already beat them to the punch. Stay true to your home, it's not about the trends; you want classic, timeless design. That never goes out of style.

My convictions are so strong, I just might blog about this. haha. Glad I got that off of my chest.

kellIinwi (not verified)

Tue, 09/18/2012 - 19:22

I'm trying to finish this build and really wanted to know what concealed hinges you used!! I REALLY want to enjoy this labor of love but am trying to find concealed hinges. I did find a pair for $20, that I think will work but I can't spend $40 on hinges.

Thank you I'm advance and I think you're amazingly talented!!!! :)

mrsg08

Mon, 09/24/2012 - 16:26

We are trying to finish this build and bought what we thought were euro style hinges, but my husband installed them and there on the outside and it looks awful. So we've removed them and needless to say there will be a lot of wood filler used.

Can someone please help me with the type of hinges used and a link(so I can see what they look like) in this build? I really want to achieve the hidden flush doors as shown in the picture. Thanks so much!

bock_the_builder

Sat, 05/04/2013 - 23:25

When Ana says "Please don’t attempt as a first project", listen to Ana!! I did not read that disclaimer until I had already purchased all of my wood. I wish I had. Holy moly! This was a ton of cuts! I decided to forego the drawers for simple shelves (works better for our house) and added shelves to both of the cabinets for more storage. Hinges are tougher than I could have ever imagined, and my doors look like Al Capone took a machine gun, there's so many little drill holes in them, but the hinges finally went on. It's not the most beautiful piece in the world, but I did it, and just like in life, each mistake was a lesson--albeit, just like in life, some lessons are more expensive than others! I learned a lot from building this piece, and I thank Ana for empowering real people to build real pieces. The sky truly is the limit (if you start small, of course)!

go10ecvols

Thu, 08/01/2013 - 13:31

I'm trying to get the PDF version of this and get an invalid link error. Does anyone have the pdf available?

shelbymceachern

Sun, 10/27/2013 - 06:29

Where can we find a plan for the whole unit? I really want to make the whole thing here and can not find any additional plans for this!!!

LOVE IT!

aklab

Tue, 04/15/2014 - 20:01

Help! I want to build this but the PDF link is broken. Any plans to replace the plans there?

hammerhead22

Fri, 06/20/2014 - 09:40

So, the materials list calls for 1 1/4" finish nails, and the cabinet door instructions say to fasten the frame to the back with glue and nails, but the thickness of the entire door (3/4" wood + 1/4" plywood) is only 1".

Am I missing something? Won't the nails go straight through the back (or front, in this case)?

justinkauai

Fri, 10/03/2014 - 03:45

Any chance you could share the sketch up plans.

I would like to add another drawer and it would help tremendously to add it in sketch up.

 

BTW love you plans!

Thanks,

Justin

meme060504

Fri, 10/10/2014 - 08:58

I see the PDF plans link is broken. Would like to build this and would like to have the plans to do this. Will this be fixed? Please let me know.

Thanks,

Mindy

J Charles

Fri, 01/09/2015 - 06:55

I started building one of these a couple weeks ago, but unfortunately, without a garage, I'm limited to building on my patio. It's been too cold/rainy/snowy to work on it recently. I'm anxious to get it finished so we can use our new TV. I made it taller than the plans, adding an additional drawer. Can't wait to finish and post pics.

meldawn723

Thu, 04/21/2016 - 08:58

Love this style. But need to modify about 15 inches longer and 6 inches taller. Anybody know if I would need to add stronger legs or maybe an additional one in the middle (which wouldn't look great) Thx!

darren_russinger

Thu, 02/15/2018 - 19:31

In Step 2:  Building the box, I'm trying to figure out the best locations for pocket hole screws.  Maybe on either ends of the center partitions, the ends of the bottom (to fasten to the sides), and maybe the tops of the sides to fasten to the top?  

Has anyone used pocket holes on this step?  

Indywar2

Wed, 06/26/2019 - 12:30

NIce plans. 

 

I was wondering why there are three pieces of wood for the top instead of one.  

Also, are people using solid lumber or plywood for the box sides?  It seems there was a mention to use 11.5" because it saves plywood, but the material list seems to indicate solid lumber.

Thanks,

Rob

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!