$30 Industrial Bookshelf

$30 Industrial Bookshelf
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Build this gorgeous industrial bookshelf for just $30 a piece!  Open bookshelf, narrow bookshelf. Beginner plans by ANA-WHITE.com

$30 Industrial Bookshelf
$30 Industrial Bookshelf
$30 Industrial Bookshelf
$30 Industrial Bookshelf

Industrial Bookcase Highlights

  • Inexpensive, only about $30 to build
  • Features four large, roomy shelves and a top
  • Designed by a Mom for Moms - it's easy to clean underneath and the shelves are extra tall so you can actually reach things and put them away easily
  • Works with lots of styles - farmhouse, industrial, modern, rustic
  • Build your own and choose your own paint or stain!
  • Open design makes rooms feel larger while providing lots of storage options
  • Easy to clean underneath with high bottom shelf
  • Back panels add design and structure - this bookshelf is very sturdy
  • Only need basic woodworking tools - a drill, saw, brad nailer (or hammer) and Kreg Jig

I needed some storage desperately in my home office area.  Since my office area is open to the rest of the home - in a narrowish passage between the great room and dining room - something light and airy was definitely in order!  I love me a quick and inexpensive project - so I designed this industrial bookcase using only about $30 in materials!

Yes, you read that right!  THIRTY BUCKS for each industrial bookcase!

We love the open bookshelf design.  And the open bookshelf allows the passage area to feel light and airy!

They are ridiculously gorgeous!  So suprising for how simple and inexpensive they were to make.

Of course, what goes in an open bookshelf matters quite a bit!  We found most of the accessories at Micheals -

The Squeeze the Day art was from Micheals and was the inspiration for the accessories.  The faux plant is from Target. Baskets are from Lowes.

The letter sorter is awesome! It's from Micheals (as is the craft organizer on the upper shelf)

The faux lemon tree and metal sign are also from Micheals.  Those two items really helped decorate the open shelving!  I also love the plywood backs - it really adds interest and structure too.

I'm so excited to share the plans for this project with you!

We filmed the build - so do watch that -

And then grab the free plans and make this industrial bookcase yours!

 

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$30 Industrial Bookshelf

Dimensions
$30 Industrial Bookshelf
Dimensions for Industrial Bookcase shown above. This is a narrow bookshelf design

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 12 feet long - do not cut in half for transport - it is better to cut as listed in cut list for transport
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood panel 48" x 48" (or two panels 24" x 48" if easier to transport)
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 69" - legs
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8-1/4" - bottom leg supports
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 31" - top
  • 4 - 1x12 @ 28" - shelves
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 16-1/2" x 30-1/2" - back
Tools
Tape Measure
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

Set your Kreg Jig to the 1-1/2" setting.

Drill a single pocket hole on each end of the small 2x2 pieces.

TIP: Before attaching legs, you may wish to drill a pocket hole for attaching the top on each leg (see next step).  Also make sure you rotate legs so the pocket holes are placed on the back of the legs.

Attach to the legs at the bottom with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

 

Step 2

The top can be attached with screws from the top or pocket holes on the back side.

If using screws from the top, you'll need at least two screws per joint, small, self tapping screws are best.

If using pocket holes, set the Kreg Jig to 3/4" setting (but the clamp set for 1-1/2" thick wood).  Drill a single pocket hole on backs of legs.

Attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to top.

Step 3

Set the Kreg Jig to the 3/4" setting.

On each end of the shelves, drill a pocket hole 3/4" in from the outside edge.

Attach to 2x2 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4

Make sure the project is square by taking diagonals of the outside corners, and making sure the diagonals match.  If they don't match, adjust until they do by pushing the long diagonal corners together.

On back of project attach the 1/4" plywood panels with 3/4" brad nails or staples and glue, attaching to shelves and legs.

To prevent forward tipping hazard, attach to stud in wall on final installation with screws. 

Comments

lyds6382

Mon, 06/22/2020 - 20:45

Instead of just the two sections with backing, could you have some sort of lightweight piece that covers the entire back?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!