Benchmark Storage or Media Tower

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 02/12/2021 - 10:13
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Create a gorgeous media wall by adding towers on either side of the matching center console.  Or use it as a linen cabinet or even a nightstand! Free plans by

diy media console


dimensions for media tower
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

Shopping list is per one tower.

1 - Sheet 3/4" Plywood cut into strips 15 3/4" wide, 8 feet long

1 - Sheet 1/4" Plywood or other backing (for the back - if you are building two towers, you will not need an extra sheet for the second back)
5 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - knob
1 - sheet 1/4" acrylic glass, at least 15" x 22" (buy a 30" x 24" sheet if you are building two towers)
Common Materials
3/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 56 1/4" (Sides)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (Side Trim)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 59 1/4" (Legs)
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 17" (Front/Back Trim)
  • 5 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 17" (Shelves)
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 22" (Top)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 22" (Top)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 22" (Top)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 55 1/4" (Back)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 11 3/4" (Door)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 23 3/4" (Door)
Cutting Instructions

Have your hardware store cut the 3/4" plywood into 15 3/4" wide strips, 8 feet long. Ask to run the plywood through horizontally so the widths are exactly the same - that's the most important thing! If your hardware store says no, either use a table saw or a circular saw to cut your plywood into 1x16 boards. If you are using a circular saw, clamp a board to the top of your plywood and use it as a guide when cutting - will help you cut straighter.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

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Benchmark Storage or Media Tower


Step 1

Before any assembly, go through the plan and diagrams and mark and drill all pocket holes.

On each side, on the outsides where no pocket holes are drilled, attach side trim to top and bottom with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue. Outside edges are flush.

You will need to build two.

Step 2

With top edges flush, attach legs using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Do this on both sides.

Step 3

Measure and mark the placement of front/back trim boards as shown in diagram. Then attach with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 4

For the fixed shelves, drill 3/4" pocket holes on all sides. Place inside trim and sides and attach with 1 1/4" pocket holes and glue. Tops are flush.

Step 5

Step 6

Build the top first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then screw on from the underside with 2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Back is easy step - cut your plywood and attach with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails. Just make sure you hit all fixed shelves.

It would be a good idea to cut holes for cords at this stage.

Step 8

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the shorter door pieces and build your doors with glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 9

Predrill holes in the acrylic glass and attach to back side of door frames. This acrylic glass should significantly strengthen your door.

NOTE: You may wish to mark the location of your hinges (next step) and notch out a spot for the hinges so you have a nice flat spot to attach hinges - or you could just cut your acrylic glass shorter on the hinge side. This will depend on what type of hinge you use.

Step 10

The hinge I recommend are these ones:

Seriously sweet hinges!  But they do require more clearance, so do some fitting.
Leave an 1/8" gap on all sides of your doors to enable your door to open and close smoothly.  
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Wed, 10/12/2011 - 21:50

Have you found good plywood/hardwood combinations? I'm just starting out and am having a hard time finding plywood and lumber that will match. I don't want to always paint the wood (though if I do it would be nice to know which ones go together). But someday I'd like to try my hand at staining. I got a hold of a lot of birch for cheap but have nothing to go with it. Some lumber stores sell birch but not in all the sizes I need. So then I stained a piece of poplar to see if that'll work but I still can't find it in the lengths required here. :(.
Thanks! Love your site.

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 11/04/2011 - 17:02

I built a set of coffee and end tables for my living room using birch plywood and poplar edging with a mahogany stain, and you can't tell the difference. Not sure if you could tell with a lighter stain.

In reply to by BigRed (not verified)


Thu, 10/13/2011 - 05:48

In general you can build a project from whatever woods strike your fancy. This project would look good made from any close grained hardwood like maple or walnut.

The deciding factor would be can you get the materials, and are you capable of working with them? Hardwoods aren't sold as dimensional number, so you don't buy 2x2s. You'd buy 8/4 stock, mill it, and rip it to size.

None of that stuff is very hard. There are a few books that will tell you how to do it. Hand Tool Essentials is one that I really like, and Tage Frid Teached Woodworking, Volumn 1, is another. Both are well written and heavy with pictures, which does a lot to make it easier to learn. Both are great books to read if you want to advance your woodworking skills.


Thu, 10/13/2011 - 10:58

I was hoping I could just walk into a place and just pick out what I needed like a grocery store and easily match up plywoods with hardwoods :) I guess I'm overly anxious to start and have a huge list of todo items.
I got some nice birch plywood and I'll start calling around to find birch hardwoods. Though it's not too easy. I thought saving up for the tools was going to be the hard part . . silly me :) I suppose if I don't want this stained but painted instead I can be less picky with the types of woods I mix/match so long as the grains are close. Though I'd prefer staining. I'd love to do this as a linen cabinet and a farmhouse vanity next to it so getting all that lumber to match is being a pain.


Thu, 10/13/2011 - 18:48

There's no reason you can't use dimensional lumber from the lumber yard, which will be pine, hemlock, spruce or fir. Those woods take stain well, and they aren't too shabby even with a clear finish. White pine looks especially nice under a gloss polyurethane.

Most projects here are intended to be built with the dimensional lumber you can pick up at the lumber yard, and that's a great place to start because when you make mistakes (and you will), it's a lot cheaper to replace material and correct the problem.

As for where to get the materials, I strongly recommend finding a local lumber yard with good customer service. They'll have better materials and your projects will go better. You can pick up wood at a home center, but you'll have to dig through a lot of scrap wood to find decent. Definitely read Ana's article about selecting a straight board and be very fussy. Theoretically you can also buy plywood there, but Ive never seen a Lowes or Home Depot store their sheet goods correctly, so it tends to be crazy warped.


Tue, 10/18/2011 - 20:37

No photos yet since it's in the ugly "being primed" state but I just wanted to drop a note and say building this went very smoothly. The directions were spot on! Thanks so much. I am however leaving off the back and attaching the doors until I have everything painted. That way it's easier to get to all the little corners. I need to make two more! One to match this one since they will be matching linen cabinets and one that I'll modify for a media/dvd cabinet. I used a combination of birch plywood and thanks to the suggestions here I found a great lumber company nearby where they helped me pick out the best poplar for the job.


Wed, 10/19/2011 - 14:24

Hopefully you'll have a very good relationship with them for years to come. Getting the right materials for the job can really make a difference in how you feel about it.

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 14:21

Great project! I am in planning mode and getting ready to start this. Are you doing anything to hide the plywood edges for things like the front edge of the shelves (step 5) and the side edges of the 1x16 top piece that are not covered by the 1 x pieces (step 6)? Thanks!

Rah (not verified)

Fri, 01/18/2013 - 07:53

Thanks for the detailed drawings and how-to. I bought a kreg jig after reading how you raved about it and I love it too! I still have to put a top coat on to make it smooth, and then I'll have to come back and visit the "brag" board :)


Tue, 10/25/2016 - 03:25

Trying to figure this out. Firs time attempting a DIY like this. I'm trying to understand the wood sizes being used for everything here. Also, I'm having a hard time locating the samentyoe of wood for everything. For example the plywood may be one type but, the wood for the legs may end up being a different type of wood because I can't get the same type of wood to match because of the sizes they come in. I would like to stain this project and I'm not sure it will,look good with different types of wood being put together. Also, can someone confirm if this is right from how I'm reading it on this DIY:

Sides = 3/4" plywood

Side trim = 3/4" plywood

Legs = 2x2 dimensional board

Front and back trim = 2x2 dimensional board

Shelves = 3/4" plywood

Top 1 = 3/4" plywood

Top 2 = 3/4" plywood or dimensional board ???

Top 3 = 3/4" plywood or dimensional board ???

As typing this it seems that majority of this build is using plywood and the only dimensional board are the legs and front/back trim. An I correct? If so then what wood combination can I use that will look good when using a wood stain? I don't think I can get birch or maple or oak in a 2x2 dimensional board for the legs and front/back trim. I went to a lumber store yesterday to look at some material. I may try taking a look at Home Depot tonight and ask around also.

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