Classic Storage Wall Side Base Units

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 01/20/2010 - 22:18
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All the beauty and functionality of expensive built-ins, but none of the cost or limitations. Build this base cabinet to keep your media center both beautiful and organized. Features optional shelf and pullout drawer, two doors, and simple moulding details. Works with the rest of the Classic Storage Collection.

24" Wide x 25" Deep x 30" High


Shopping List

1 Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood, cut into 23 1/2″ Strips, 8′ long 

1 – 1×6 (for the optional pull out drawer) 
1 Sheet of 3/8″ MDF or Plywood for backs and doors 
1 – 1×2 
1- 1×3 (you will only need 24″) 
at least 24″ of 2 1/2″ high base moulding 
2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges 
2 – Pulls or Knobs 
4 - Shelf Pins 
21″ Undermount Drawer Slides if you are building pullout drawers. 
Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

A) 2 – 1×24 @ 29 1/4″ (Sides) 

B) 1 – 1×24 @ 22 1/2″ (Bottom) 
C) 2 – 1×24 @ 24″ (Top) 
D) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 24″ x 30″ (Back) 
E) 1- 1×3 @ 24″ (Bottom Trim) 
F) 2 – 1×2 @ 24″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim) 
G) 2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/4″ (Side Trim) 
H) 1 - 1x 24 @ 22 1/2″ (Shelves)
Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 24″ Long

Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions. 

 I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 10 1/4″ x 25″ (Backs of Doors) 
J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 10 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors) 
K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 22″ (Stiles on the Doors)

Optional Pull Out Drawer Cut List – Again, measure your opening and build your drawer to fit. These measurements are the ideal measurements. 

 L) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/2″ x 22″ (Bottom of pull out drawer) 
M) 2- 1×6 @ 22″ (Sides) 
N) 2 – 1×6 @ 19″ (Front and Back)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects.

Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue.

My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy.

Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.


Step 1

Build the box. Start by fastening the bottom to the sides. Make note that the top of the bottom is 2 1/2″ high, so there will be a 1 3/4″ clearance under the bottom shelf. Then add the top, shown in purple, fastening to the sides. Use 2″ fasteners.

Step 2

Back. TAKE A SQUARE of the project (see HOW-TO section). Then fasten the 3/8″ plywood to the back, as shown above. You can use 1 1/4″ fasteners.

Step 3

Footer. TAKE A SQUARE. Then add the footer to the front, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 4

Top Trim. Again, make sure everything is square. Then fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 5

Step 6

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush. Use the 2″ fasteners.

Step 7

Shelves. Determine where the shelf will be placed and mark the bottom edge with a square. Then drill two holes 1″ from the ends with a 1/4″ bit, 1/2″ deep. You can make sure you are only drilling 1/2″ deep by setting the drill bit in your drill so only 1/2″ is exposed. Insert the shelf pins and add your shelf. You can move your shelf at any time.
If you are building with A1 plywood, you will need to finish the front shelf edge with edge banding. See the HOW-TO section for a post on choosing your wood that talks about Edge Banding. Don’t be intimidated by edge banding. It’s cheap and easy and looks great – the odds are your kitchen cabinets are covered in it!

Step 8

Doors. Dryfit the 3/8″ plywood backs into the base unit. Make sure there is about 1/8″ gap around the door. Check to make sure the type of hinges you choose will als fit in the door. Trim the back if necessary. Then use 5/8 staples or brad nails and glue and clamps to add the rails to the tops and bottoms of the doors, keeping outside edges flush.

Step 9

Stiles on Doors. Add the stiles to the doors as shown above, using the directions in step 8. When the doors are finished, lay flat (you can stack) and then rest a piece of plywood on top, and then a heavy object. Let dry.

Step 10

Base Moulding. If you would like to dress up your base unit, add the base moulding to the foot of the cabinet. Use the 1 1/4″ fasteners.

Step 11

Pull Out Drawers. You might as well build the pullout drawers, because you will have a perfect sized scrap piece leftover. You will need to cut it to the size above. Then fasten the sides, the 1×6 boards cut at 22″ to the sides of the bottom.

Step 12

Face and Back of the Pull-Out Drawer. Notch out the front of the face as shown above. Then fasten to the sides and the bottom, as shown above. Use the bottom mount drawer slides to attach the drawers to the base of the cabinet.


Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 08:04

I would generally cut your strips the longer way because that gives you more opportunities to use your boards. And sometime you may need a board longer than 48"

bride (not verified)

Sun, 02/07/2010 - 16:04

OMG...I just found your site a week ago and I am building so much! I started with the farmhouse bed. I'm working on the Logan center now. I do have a question though! What happens if you use your "check for square" tip and you find out it is not square?? I am having a major problem getting these to be square and I keep fiddling with them, but I always get off just a tad!

I also had a suggestion for you: I saw many of your readers wish they could estimate the cost of each unit, but you had stated in other comments that you didn't want to do that because the price varied so much from location to location. Why don't you post a link for each board or MDF sheet to the accompanying product on the Lowe's website or Home Depot website? Both sites have zip code calculators so a reader could punch in their zip code and they could see what the product would cost at their local store. It would provide a simple way for readers to estimate their cost before starting to build!

Also, it really helps me to have cut layouts of the MDF before going to the store. I saw that Shanty2Chic did this on the Cameron center, and I did the same thing on mine. Could I suggest posting cut layouts or linking to your readers who have created cut layouts and posted them online already so that new readers can benefit from it.

THANKS SO MUCH. This site is so fantastic and I've told everyone who will listen how awesome you/your site is!

Anonymous (not verified)

Mon, 02/08/2010 - 07:03

Bride-- my dad and I built the logan base this weekend and were having the same problem. For us, the solution was clamps, lots and lots of clamps, and an extra piece of wood to lay over the top to tap it to square witha hammer before putting in the screw/ finish nailing.

Mel (not verified)

Fri, 02/12/2010 - 07:53

Hi Ana,
If you have time, could you also show us how to do the lower drawer bases and upper doors in the first photo? This would be great in my dining room...

Thanks so much!

Annalea (not verified)

Wed, 02/17/2010 - 13:12

I'm planning my new dining room right now, and I so want to build this Logan system as a china "cabinet" . . . and I have a feeling there are plenty of us readers out there who would, too. :o) Would you fill out your Logan collection plans with the ones shown here? Pretty, pretty please?

Thanks so much for doing this. It's like having a community woodworker instructor available 24/7. I even woke up this morning thinking about the Bedford bookcase, and am going to make it soon . . . once I clear a spot in this little rental to assemble it!

Melissa (not verified)

Tue, 03/09/2010 - 15:27

Am I missing it, or is there a post that shows how to do the accordian doors on the Television section in the photo on this post? I love your plans and I love that piece. 4 children give me a great desire to hide my TV!

orange sugar (not verified)

Fri, 03/12/2010 - 17:40

I am wondering the same thing as Melissa. I don't think you posted the plans for the piece that allows you to close off the TV. Or am I just missing it? I hope you will post those plans eventually. I have always wanted a cabinet where I could close off the TV but could never find one big enough.

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 03/09/2011 - 10:33

Would I need to change anything structurally if I wanted to build them 36 inches wide instead of 24 inches? I was thinking maybe something under the base and along the back?

college entran… (not verified)

Wed, 07/25/2012 - 00:10

An interior designer is someone who conducts such projects. Interior design is a multifaceted profession that includes conceptual development, liaising with the stakeholders of a project and the management and execution of the design.