Farmhouse Washer Dryer Pedestals Bases

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/08/2019 - 10:39
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Build your own washer and dryer pedestal bases to bring your laundry up in height.  Also includes storage for baskets.  You'll love the step by step diagrams and cut list.  

farmhouse laundry room washer dryer pedestal base



laundry room pedestal bases

Special thanks to Sausha for letting us create this tutorial from her laundry room bases.

dimensions diagram for the laundry base
Dimensions shown above. Measure your laundry machines and adjust to fit. Also note the size under the bases can be adjusted for laundry basket heights by simply changing the cuts of the 4x4 legs.


Shopping List
  • 2 – sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood
  • 5 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 4×4 post @ 4 feet long (you can also use 2x4s laminated together – just add another 2×4 to your list)
  • 1 – stick of base cap moulding like this @ 6 feet long and 1" brad nails for attaching
  • 4 – Angle Brackets (like these)
  • 3″ self tapping wood screws
  • 2″ self tapping wood screws


Cut List
  • 10 – 2×4 @ 25″ (Joists)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 60″ (Sides of Floor)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 28″ x 60″ (Decking)
  • 4 – 4×4 Posts (or 8 2x4s) @ 11″ (Posts)
  • Moulding cut to fit
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set


Step 1


You are basically going to build two mini floors for this project. The top floor need to be built as shown above.

The bottom floor you can skip the center joists (minimal weight on bottom shelf)

Use glue and 3″ self tapping screws to build the framing.  You can also use pocket holes if you have a Kreg Jig, on the 1-1/2" setting with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 2


Screw the plywood to the top of the 2x4s with glue.

Step 3

Corner Angles

This step is just because I have an old school washer and dryer that stomps out of the laundry room whenever I overloaded it. But the angles are cheap and will make your life easier. Screw down with 2″ screws.

Step 4

Attach Legs

Attach the legs to the top (the floor with the center supports) and screw down. If you can, add a few screws at an angle in as well.

Step 5

Place the second "floor" on the 4x4s and screw through the 3/4" plywood into the undersides of the 4x4 legs.  At least three screws per leg is recommended.

Step 6


Cut trim to fit and attach around legs to fancy up the base (optional)

Step 7

Additional Bracing

If you find your base needs more support here are a few quick fixes -

  • Cover the entire back in 3/4" plywood or MDF scraps from the build, glue and screw every 4" approximately to the 4x4 legs and the 2x4 framing with 3" self tapping screws.
  • Attach the 2x4s framing to studs in the walls
Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Sausha trimmed everything out with another layer of MDF. If you are good with a table saw this can really give you that finished look. Otherwise, I recommend patience, and a whole tub of wood filler. More details on Sausha’s finish here.

Thanks Sausha!


Lynne H (not verified)

Sun, 10/16/2011 - 13:38

I love the pedestal, but we are unfortunately having to pull the machines off of them. My husband built it exactly as outlined. Our laundry is on the first floor, over a basement, so we are on joists. The washer has been leveled multiple times, and does NOT walk at all. We have an LG front-loader. In the old house, on basement slab, no vibrations, no noise, no problems. In this house, even before the pedestal, we had some minor vibrations. The machine doesn't walk, it just vibrates. We even put it on vibration dampening mode, which helped a little. But once we made the pedestal and placed the washer and dryer on top, the vibration became significantly worse. We tried putting a car jack under the center of the pedestal for added support, and that helped a little, but not enough. I've been monitoring for the last few weeks, but today, the vibrations were even worse. We've checked and the machine is level from all directions. It hasn't moved, it hasn't walked. But the shaking is so bad that we fear it may be damaging the machine. I'm glad that so many others have made this without any problems, but wanted to add our expeirence that you may indeed run into vibration issues. If you had any vibration issues before (or shaking), adding the pedestal MAY make it worse. Wish we could find a way to solve this, as the pedestal is beautiful and we hate to get rid of it!


Tue, 11/08/2011 - 05:39

This was the first thing I built for our new house, and we were very excited to gain some additional space in our second floor laundry. However, as many have noted, the vibration issues are very concerning. Has anyone been successful with additional bracing/support to remedy this issue?

Woodburnd (not verified)

Thu, 12/08/2011 - 17:58

This is SO cool! For your guys' vibrating issues, we had the same with our washer when we moved into our new house only a couple months ago. We just reset all of the adjusters on the feet of the washer, then leveled it from there. For some reason, it worked - it's only a minor suggestion but it's worth a shot!

Jaci (not verified)

Tue, 12/20/2011 - 07:51

My only question would be how to modify it as my dryer vent is on the floor. So I couldn't push this all the way to the wall. Is your measurements all the way to the wall or should I just adjust for that???


Tue, 12/20/2011 - 10:47

The dryer vent tubing should be able to stretch if you need more length, if not you can always purchase another tube at local store, they run 5-8 bucks depending where you get them from. Also you could aways notch cut a square to let dryer vent tubing go down. Hope that helps.

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 12/28/2011 - 19:23

We are in the process of making this so I checked the original post and it sounds like she attached it to the wall for more support. How exactly did she do that?

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 01/06/2012 - 18:56

How much are all these supplies?

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/15/2012 - 07:54

I've noticed a few people asking about the cost to build this. I'm a contractor by trade. I'm also 5 month pregnant and needed to put my front loaders up on a pedestal. I started drawing up some plans for building a pedestal and stumbled across this design. I must say that I truly love this Ana!
The estimated material costs for this project should be around $125.00 from your local Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. If you have a local lumber supplier that has better prices, you can get it accomplished a little cheaper.
Some people have also asked about securing it to the wall. I don't know how Sausha did it, but it's not a big task if you have just a little patience. You can do this a couple of different ways. But the first thing you need to do is locate the studs in the wall that you will be anchoring to. You can do this with an electronic stud finder, or you can use a pin nail and nail it into the wall until you hit a solid stud. Once you find one, you should be able to measure every 16" from there and find another one. From there, you can use some really long screws and drill through the 2x4 brace in the back side of the upper platform into the stud in the wall. Just make sure your screws are long enough. If you don't mind having some visible hardware behind your washer/dryer, you can use angle brackets. Just screw one side of the brackets into the top of the pedestal and the other side into the wall studs. Just make sure you don't miss those studs because drywall won't hold it.
It's also important to note that if you have any trim or base molding at the bottom of your wall, this won't work perfectly. You will need to either remove the trim so that the back of the pedestal is tight against the wall, or you can attach a 1x4 to the back of the top platform of the pedestal (or directly to the wall if you already know exactly where you are putting it) to close the gap.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 01/30/2012 - 07:46

I built this yesterday, and the design seems very sturdy. I did want to point out one minor inconsistency in the plans, however. The shopping list specifies 5 2x4s @ 8' each. The cut list says you will end up with 4 60" lengths plus 10 25" joists. The shopping list assumes you will leave the joists out of the lower floor, whereas the cut list assumes you put them in. This can cause confusion at the local lumber store as you start counting your cut boards (don't ask).

I haven't built much with a saw in over 25 years, so the fact that I completed the assembly in a day is a testament to the well thought-out build. I think the hardest part was getting the legs to stay square (the end grain on the 4x4s seems to want to push the screws around and misalign everything). Other than that, assembly was very smooth. Kudos!

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