Rustic X End Table

rustic x end table plans
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Build your own end tables!  These gorgeous rustic style end tables are built from 2x4s and lumber.  We love the large size and the open bottom shelf. Stain or paint any color. Our beginner friendly plans make it easy with step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.  

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Console Table, Rustic X Coffee Table and Rustic X Bench Plans


Rustic X Living Room Table Collection

This end table is part of a collection of living room furniture that you can build. All the plans are available for free for your use.

It all started with this beautiful X Console Table, built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.

And then we added this beautiful Rustic X Coffee Table, also built by Hillary.

Now, Hillary used up her scraps and built X End Tables!


DIY Wood Finish

Hillary used a steel wool and vinegar solution to age her end table. Want the same finish? Get the step by step tutorial here.


Pin For Later! 

Rustic X End Table

rustic x end table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long corner bracket hardware decorative bolts
  • 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws
  • wood glue
Cut List
  • 8 - 2X4 @ 22 1/2" - Legs
  • 4 - 2X2 @ 16" - Trim
  • 2 - 1X12 @ 16" - Bottom shelf
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 13 1/4" (Longest edge, one end cut at 50 degrees off square, other end cut at 10 degrees off square, see diagram) *
  • 5 - 2x6 @ 27" - Top

*You may wish to trace and cut these in place

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by building two ends as depicted in diagrams. You can also attach with countersunk 2 1/2" screws and glue.

NOTE: Yellow board width should be 22 1/2"

Step 2

Next attach the 2x2 sides.

Step 3

And then build your bottom shelf and attach to bottom of console.

Step 4

Now it's time to fit your cross braces. A standard miter saw should cut a 50 degree angle off square. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees.

Another trick is to just hold the board in place, mark the angles, and cut. These aren't support boards or anything like that, so some glue and a few nails or countersunk screws from top/bottom will do the trick.

TIP: We recommend building the entire X first, the attaching the complete X inside the end table.

Step 5

The smaller X pieces can be cut to fit.  Attach with a 1-1/2" pocket hole and 2-1/2" pocket hole screw, one screw per joint.

Step 6

Next build your top ... and attach in place with countersunk 2 1/2" screws. If you have the PH screws on hand, I just use a few of those!

Step 7

And then add the decorative hardware!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Sat, 09/07/2013 - 13:50

I created pocket holes in my bottom shelf as directed, but when I attempt to attach to the 2x4, my screws are entering at an angle that forces them up and through the 2x4, being very visible on the finished piece. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, how'd you fix it? Or am I doing something incorrectly?


Mon, 09/16/2013 - 22:05

Just wondering where the use of counter sink drill bits come into play when making this design? And also what size drill bits are needed. Thanks, love your furniture!

JoNell Lynch

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 19:21

Is there a trick to use with the xs. My table must not have been square and I had a hard time cutting the xs to fit in there snuggly. I still have an end table and a coffee table to build.


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 07:55

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 07:55

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.

In reply to by terrigarli


Sat, 08/23/2014 - 15:10

PH means Pocket Hole screw. The thickness of the lumber being joined with a pocket hole screw determines the length of screw you should employ. Kreg has a chart you can print out that tells you which length screw to use depending upon the lumber being joined.

Since you are new to using pocket hole joinery let me add that you need several clamps to hold the boards in place when you drive the screws. Otherwise they will take over. This is especially the case if you are connecting a mitered joint. When you near the end of driving the screws do it in little spurts with your drill to firmly seat the screw but also to prevent driving the screw through the board. It happens. Last always complement PH screws with a good wood glue like Titebond II or III.

KandA Country Decor

Mon, 10/20/2014 - 07:01

I built this table and now it wobbles :( I tried sanding down the leg I thought was too long but now it's even worse.  Any advice on how to fix this?  Thanks!!


Mon, 10/20/2014 - 07:11

If it wobbles becuase you don't have the legs exactly the same height this can be easily fixed by using a furniture pad or by buying adjustable furninture sliders like these:… 

I've installed sliders like these on all my tables since its very likely the customers floor will not be level.  Just inset them so they are completely flush with the bottom of the leg then you can turn them in and out to level the legs.  

Hope this helps!



Wed, 03/11/2015 - 18:01

I am a former cabinet builder so I know a LOT about woodworking ;-)

For those that don't have a Kreg or other Pocket Hole jig, you can use a biscuit joiner to join the tops together. You can also use 2 1/2 finish nails in a 28° finish nailer to attach all the pieces together. That is how I plan on doing it. I have done some redesign, too, to make it easier to build.

One thing I've noticed is people having trouble determining the angle to cut the 'X' pieces. What I would do is create a cardboard mock up the same size as the space between the legs and layout my 2X2's on that and mark my angles.


Wed, 05/13/2015 - 19:05

I modified the plans to be a little smaller but I'm having a hard time with the degree cut of the X's. Is it still the same degree of cut? Or since I changed the plan it would be different? Also, if it's different, how do I determine what it is? THANKS!


Tue, 09/29/2015 - 18:52

Hello all,

The major problem I have seen so far is to make a flat counter top. After using pocket hole screws to join the five 2x6 boards, they are not even any more and I can see boards are not in the same surface. When I check the images posted by ana, the End Table looks so smooth.

Question> what is the tricks to make a flat End table counter top?


Thank yoiu

Tsu Dho Nimh

Wed, 09/30/2015 - 09:45

The secret is to use clamps - LOTS of clamps - and glue.  One set of clamps will hold the board you are connecting tight to the board with the holes, and the rest will hold the boards flat to your work surface.  Then you use a planer or sander and make it smooth.

Look up "edge joining boards" on youtube and Google - there are lots of tricks.



Wed, 10/14/2015 - 16:00

Hi Ana,

We decided to use a Rust-Oleum stain for the end tables, but we were wondering if we need to use anything else to finish it (i.e. poly, wax, etc.)... We want the table to have kind of a rustic look, so we don't want anything too shiny. Any recommendations? 





Fri, 10/16/2015 - 16:01

Love this! This is my 3rd project and still learning a little from my mistakes. But practice makes perfect right?! I made the large porch bench with the rustic x's and had some left over wood to make this table. Thanks Ana for all the wonderful plans you provide. You're awesome!


Sun, 12/20/2015 - 05:54

So am I supposed to use 1 1/2 ph and 2 1/2 ph screws or is it one or the other?


Tue, 05/31/2016 - 07:44

Love the X tables, heading out to buy my lumber today for 2 end tables. But I really LOVE the look of the square coffee table. Do plans exist for a Rustic X Square coffee table? Not the rectangle design.


Thu, 06/23/2016 - 11:39

I am going to use Wenge 2X6s for the table top and a dark finish on pine for the rest of the table. Once everything is cut to size and prepped, would you stain the pine before final assembly or assemble and then stain? Thanks


Sun, 07/24/2016 - 20:47

Hi there,

I was hoping someone could help me out. What would the length of wood be for the 2x2 crossbar prior to cutting it to the appropriate  angle? We are doing everything by hand with no mitre saw So it's easiest to make one 90 degree cut prior to the off square cut. 

TIA  for the help!  (26.5" from long to short point is what I'm referring to)


Tue, 10/18/2016 - 07:24

I am planning on making one of these tables today. Wondering about how long it takes just to build it? TIA!!!


Fri, 11/18/2016 - 15:15

you said you have a kreg jr. It when I go to look for one there are so many different kinds. Kreg R3 jr , R4 ect. I'm not sure which one to buy. What exact one do you have? 

Brian Famous

Thu, 01/25/2018 - 12:57

You can actually make them yourself fairly easily.  All it takes is a piece of flat bar steel, a way to cut the steel (I use a grinder with a cut off wheel, but a hacksaw would work too), a drill with a good drill bit (for drilling the bolt holes), a vise, a hammer, and some spray paint.

If you get a longer piece of steel than you need, it's easier to bend because you get more leverage on it.  To make it even easier, you can use a torch to heat the steel at the point you want to bend it.


Mon, 01/22/2018 - 16:01

I'm new to the world of woodworking and trying to figure out the easiest way to adjust the measurements but still make it look the same.

In reply to by MacGyver

Brian Famous

Tue, 01/23/2018 - 07:41

If you are trying to change the measurements, can you provide the new final dimensions (height, width, and depth) you are trying to achieve?  Knowing those dimensions would be the first step in determining how the measurements need to be changed.


Wed, 04/29/2020 - 11:32

Where can I find the corner bracket and decorative bolts? I've looked, but can't find the exact ones you use.