A Sewing Table for Small Spaces

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 10/20/2010 - 20:38
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The perfect spot for a part time sewing enthusiast! Tucks neatly way, expands out to be a cutting or layout mat. Please note that this table is not intended for use with the sewing machine unless locking hardware is installed on the fold out legs and tabletop.

If your sewing takes over your dining table at least half the time, make sure you thank Kelly on our Community for recommending an expandable sewing table.

Expandable Simple Sewing Table

I love this idea because there is a tidy spot to hold your sewing machine, a shelf for baskets and other sewing things that you need to keep handy, tons of tabletop space, but it all folds up into a neat little package that you can roll into a closet.

Expands. Table height. Collapsed dimensions shown above.


Shopping List

1 – Sheet of Plywood or MDF
2 – 1x2s or 1x3s
4 – 2″ Caster Wheels (Overall clearance of 2 1/2″)
5 – Sets of hinges
2 1/2″ Screws

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

1 – 1×32 @ 15 1/2″ (Top)
2 – 1×32 @ 26 3/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×32 @ 12″ (Shelves)
2 – - 1×32″ @ 20″ (Leaves)
4 – 1x2s @ 29 1/4″ (Legs – Measure these!)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set


Step 1

If you can, take this diagram to Blue or Orange and have them make your cuts. If you are cutting this yourself, start by cutting the plywood into 31 7/8″ widths (shown above as 32″), 48″ long. Then from those three pieces, cut out the remaining pieces. Remember, always consider the width of your saw blade as you cut.

Step 2

Build the Box

Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue to build your box as shown above. Predrill and countersink your screws.

Step 3

Caster Wheels

Now this is important – your wheels need to have a total clearance of 2 1/2″. If you wheels do not have a total clearance of 2 1/2″, DO NOT cut the legs just yet. Instead, add the wheels, then take a measurement from the bottom of the wheels to the underside of the tabletop. This will be your new leg length.

Step 4


Lay the whole thing on the ground, face down. Screw the leaves on with hinges as shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Expanded size.

Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.


Anne Marie (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 20:48

Hello. I think mdf is horrible (great for a cheap budget) but horrible. Unfortunately I would recommend buying some good quality plywood. Stay clear of the ones under $15 and go for the real hardwood plywood. If you are already too far in with the mdf try using wood glue and see if that helps. Also stay clear of particleboard. Hope this helps!

Akiko (not verified)

Tue, 06/26/2012 - 15:53

This is JUST what I needed! My spare room is small, and I was wondering what I was going to do with my futon (it's less than a year old and still very useful) when I bought my new modern sectional. I have a sewing area in my spare room. This just solved my problem.. I can get rid of the bulky table, replace it with this and have plenty of room for the futon to go in there.



Wed, 07/25/2012 - 06:47

This is an amazingly simple solution to my sewing table/storage needs. But I do want to use it for sewing as well.What should I use to lock the leaves and legs when they're folded out? Thanks!

happyvav (not verified)

Thu, 12/06/2012 - 12:25

Love your plans, Ana!

I was wondering if you would maybe consider putting plans together for a different type of sewing table - one that's more of a book shelf or cabinet. I live in a tiny place with packed closets - no way I could roll this anywhere! This craft armoire http://www.dwelement.com/blog.php?post=107 reminds me of your kenmore bookshelf with a bit of a modification... I didn't see anywhere on the site to request plans, so sorry if this is the wrong place.


Wed, 03/05/2014 - 07:39

This is my first project from here. I'm fairly inexperienced, but it seems to me that 2 1/2" screws for a project made from 3/4" plywood seems a bit excessive. I don't have one of those kreg jig things, so I'm doing this the regular way, with pilot holes & countersinking the tops. But what size of screws should I use? 1 1/4" 1 1/2" Even the kreg jig site seems to think that 2 1/2 seems long. I really want this first project to turn out well, so that my husband will believe I really can do this.

In reply to by mrs_gumby


Wed, 03/05/2014 - 15:50

. . . and nevermind. I talked to my Dad, with far more experience, and he said that if I'm not using additional little pieces of wood for support, and screwing from the top down into the plywood, that I'll need those extra inches to make sure it's got a good hold. And to use glue to when I'm putting these together. I made a few oopsies with assembly, coming from being a beginner. Things that I'm sure more experienced woodworkers take for granted as being standard operating procedure.


Sun, 11/30/2014 - 21:12

So how did yall make the top level when the sides are up? I've got a little bump where they meet the center.