Small Cedar Fence Picket Storage Shed

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 04/01/2012 - 21:58
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About Project

Build a cedar shed! Free easy plans anyone can use to build their own shed for under $260!

When I first started building projects, I didn't care if I worked in the gravel driveway on a cold day. I didn't care if I had a little spot behind the boat, on the floor in the garage to work. I was so crazy about building, I found a way around anything to work on a project.

But over the years, slowly, tool by tool, I've been working up to a dedicated work space. And boy is it nice.

It's kind of like having a sewing table. Or a potting bench for gardening. Or even a dedicated spot to make coffee in your kitchen. When you do something on a regular basis, it sure makes life easier to have a dedicated work station for it! 

So when my friend Gina from Lady Goats wrote me saying, Help, Ana, I'm building in the rocks and dirt! I had to work with her to come up with a solution.

I hope this solution we came up with works for many of you too!

Gina sent me a link to a cedar shed with a retail price of $1600.  Okay, that's more than the tools inside! 

She wanted to use cedar, and I thought, what cheaper solution than cedar fence pickets for siding?  At a couple of bucks each, Gina was able to make this shed for $255!  And it's cedar!

 

Gina is going to add a few fun things to the inside - like a mitersaw cabinet and some door shelves, so stay tuned as we turn this shed into a workshop!

And here's a few notes from Gina:

- I found it saved about $15-$20 to use this set of hinges & latch, instead of buying them individually. You'll end up with two extra latches, but I'm sure they'll come in handy elsewhere!

- Every minute I spent on this was timed, and the entire build took almost 8 1/2 hours (including roofing, excluding finishing). So this could definitely be a weekend project!

- All of the components, unassembled, take up about 12" of space! Maybe this info will come in handy for some of you! I would have definitely pre-built everything and assembled it after I got my HOA's approval if I'd have known!

- This was my first roofing project, and this product made it SO EASY. They have videos on their website that explain everything.

- The paneled doors were kind of tough to get tight. Use a pipe clamp! If you don't have one, nail one corner of an end board and squeeze the boards together while someone else nails all of 'em.

- The roof allows you to put the shed about 8" away from a structure (meaning there's an 8" gap between the shed and other structure). If you want to lessen that gap, you'll have to resize the roof.

For lots more photos and tips, please check out Gina's blog post here.

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

18 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
44 – 5 1/2" wide cedar fence pickets
1 – 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1/2" roofing plywood panel, full 4x8 sheet
30 square feet of roofing shingles
Roofing nails or glue
Heavy duty gate hinges
Handles
Lock or Catch

Cut List

BACK WALL
2 – 2x2 @ 66 1/2"
5 – 2x2 @ 77”
16 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick fence pickets 66 1/2"
long

SIDE WALLS
2 – 2x2 @ 35 1/2"
2 – 2x2 @ 77 1/2" (longest point, top end cut at 15
degrees off square)
2 – 2x2 @ 72 5/8" (longest point, top end cut at 15
degrees off square)
2 – 2x2 @ 67 1/2" (shortest point, top end cut at

15 degrees off square)
2 – 2x2 @ 36 7/8” (long point to short point, both
ends cut at 15 degrees off square, parallel to each
other)
32 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick fence pickets 35 1/2"
long
2 – 1x3 @ 80 1/2"
2 – 1x3 @ 70 1/4" (short point measurement, top
edge beveled at 15 degrees off square)

FRONT HEADER
1 – 2x4 @ 66 1/2"

ROOF
2 – 1x4 @ 83”
2 – 1x4 @ 46 1/2"
5 – 2x2 @ 46 1/2"
1 – 1/2” thick roofing plywood @ 83” x 48”

DOORS*
4 – 1x4 @ 60”
4 – 1x4 @ 33”
2 – 1x4 @ 26”
12 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2” thick fence pickets @ 67”

*You may wish to build doors slightly shorter to enable easier opening and closing - recommended to build doors to fit finished opening.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Frame you your back walls. You can use the Kreg Jig or 2 1/2" screws here.

Step 2

Starting at the bottom and working upward, attach the cedar fence pickets, overlapping 1/2" as you go up. Screw or nail and glue on.

Step 3

Frame side walls as shown in diagram as you did the back wall. You will need two side walls.

Step 4

And add the cedar siding to back wall as shown in diagram. Do not forget that the sides need to be done in mirror!

Step 5

Step 6

Once your side walls are complete, you can attach back walls. Use 2 1/2" screws or brackets for easy disassembly.

Step 7

Add header to front of shed. Take a minute here to make sure your project is square. The door area especially needs to be square.

Step 8

Frame up roof as shown above.

Step 9

And attach roof to top of storage shed.

Step 10

Add plywood and roofing to top of shed.

Step 11

Frame doors up with pocket holes. Build doors to fit your openings. I like to leave 1/8" gaps.

Step 12

Attach cedar fence pickets to back of doors.

Step 13

And then install doors to shed.

Step 14

I love how Gina added the stop block to keep doors closed. Isn't this shed beautiful!

Step 15

Don't forget the pretty hardware!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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