Community Brag Posts

Washer & Dryer Pedestal / Platform with Drawers

Submitted by dmccoy on Tue, 03/12/2013 - 10:26

Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White spray paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

nikolegraves@h…

Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12

I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!

gmccoy20

Tue, 04/02/2013 - 11:06

Really appreciate the help with mine brotha! We really like them (even without the drawers) and are glad you had these plans to go off of for ours.

I'll be calling you for our next project!

strahmers8

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05

Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"

Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks

dwm22

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33

Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)

jmkc

Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29

Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?

heverest

Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35

Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.

dmccoy

Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58

This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.

dachiri

Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17

Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around.  That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items.  Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards.  I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.

Jperera

Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23

Hello,

I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?

Thank you for all the interesting posts.

2x4 Essential Adirondack Chair

Submitted by mricks1960 on Mon, 11/16/2020 - 11:31

I used Western red cedar to build my chairs. The build was a little more expensive but well worth it. The chairs were stained with Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil ( Jarrah Brown). Thanks for the plans Ana, your site is awesome and you do a great job! Mark

 

 

 

Comments

Front porch planters

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 01/07/2021 - 20:21

Followed your plan but added extra 1 x 2 trim to the sides, feet made from 1 × 3 and 1x 3 trim around the top

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$35 per planter
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Cedar Naturaltone Behr Waterproofing Wood Finish
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

DIY Sofa - Storage Sectional

Submitted by LittleG on Thu, 08/09/2012 - 15:38

Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.

 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$1300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax PolyShades Espresso
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

masmith38

Fri, 10/23/2015 - 11:11

Love this!  Totally want to think hard about doing this instead of buying when time for a new couch comes. Job well done, and the storage is a total plus.  

Chased

Sun, 05/15/2016 - 21:15

Where can I find the plans to this or the cut list

mikeyb

Mon, 10/03/2016 - 18:11

Awsome job!!! question? is that a typo on the cost to build??

mikeyb

Mon, 10/03/2016 - 18:12

Awsome job!!! question? is that a typo on the cost to build??

albertmick30

Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46

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XL Modern Craft Table

I modified this plan so I could have 4 total work areas. Total Size: 48" x 96"

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White paint to match walls and trim (SW Alabaster)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

briannamcelfresh

Tue, 09/08/2020 - 19:42

Is there anyway you can share these plans with me!? I drew out some plans for an identical table but I think my cuts may be off! It would be so helpful.

Simple Outdoor Table

Submitted by Kingsamui on Tue, 07/24/2018 - 17:24

Modifications to the simple outdoor table plan thanks to Finn’s dad. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200 -Found a place that had Cedar shorts “B quality”, but very few knots for an unbelievably cheap price. I ran all to boards through a planer to start and saved a bundle.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
3coats Spar Urethane. I’ve heard the Spar doesn’t hold up well, so would have used something rlse if I knew that at the beginning.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Simple 2x4 Bench

Submitted by jennibee on Sun, 09/14/2014 - 17:03

I made this in an afternoon. Loved this project. It is made with 2x4's using a Kregs Jig and mitre saw (plus additional tools like a drill and square).  This was my frist time using the Kregs Jig and I am sold!!

The free plans were taken from another website. They are very detailed and there is even a video (I recommend it as he gives a great tip for making sure the back stays equal/level to each other before putting the back on). Even though you can build this by yourself, I did have help for the heavier sides once they were assembled.  I plan to build the additional side table soon and finish them both with sanding and staining when the weather seems less iffy for rain.

If you are looking for a good beginner project that doesn't take forever or have complicated steps, this is your project.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Around $50
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Daughters blue Playhouse

Submitted by rysos81 on Thu, 07/23/2020 - 08:55

I used the basic framing plan for the project, but extended roof overhangs, added engineered siding / trim and cedar shake roofing. I put 2x4 bracing on for the platform.

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday

Modern Outdoor Chair with Backrest

Submitted by PoppaZotch on Mon, 08/17/2020 - 11:53

Per request of my wife, I opted to add a backrest to the chair. I feel as though my backrest design keeps with the style of the original build. I accomplished this by cutting the 2x4 vertical arms of the backrest at 13 inches with a 10 deg miter cut at the base. This allows you to keep with the 3/4" on the 2x6 backrest slats. I finished it off with a 2x4 top plate. I'd also note that I made slight modifications to the plans to accommodate 24" cushions.

Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
sanded to a 220 grit
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Fire Pit Swings

My wife saw something like this on Pinterest and desperately wanted one. The one she saw was hexagonal in shape. We didn't need as many swings so we went with just a plain square shape. We used 6x6s for the legs and posts across the top and used 4x4s for the angled support pieces. We built the swings using the plan from this website. All the materials can be picked up at the blue and orange stores. However when it came to the springs for the swings, the blue store was 1/3 of the price of HD. The legs are 12' long and buried 4' under the ground and cemented in for strength. Luckily I am retired military and was able to rent an auger for 1/2 the price of HD or the blue store. You could do it by hand but it saved us hours and lots of back pain. We found our dimensions for the size we wanted and spray painted dots on the ground where the posts were going to go. We dug the holes and stuffed the 6x6s in them. Using a post level we made sure they were plum. We braced them and added the quickrete and left them to setup over night. The next day we had to make sure all the tops were level with each other. This is where having some knowledge of physics paid off. I took clear tubing and screwed it above the height that I wanted on one post and then screwed the other end to another post. Fill it with water until the water level on the first post is where I wanted it (8 feet high) and it will automatically fill it level on the other end. There is a picture of this above. Water will always level itself out. I had to do this because my yard is at a slight down hill grade. We marked it and cut the tops off to make it level. After attaching the 6x6s on the top with 8" lag bolts it was time to paint. After painting was done we built 3 swings from Ana's plans. We shortened them by 6" to give room to walk between the legs and the swings. All in all it was a great project that only took two dedicated weekends. My wife still has to paint the swings though.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$600ish
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
We used an oil base Black Barn Paint from the blue store.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

jkread

Wed, 05/27/2015 - 22:38

It sounds and looks like the top 6x6s are mitered and sit on top of the end of the vertical posts. I'd say at least one lag bolt each way to hold the mitered corner together and then at least one in each piece down into the vertical to hold it in place.

carewarner

Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:24

WOW, LOVE!!! This is simply gorgeous! What a warm and welcoming addition to your yard. And thanks for sharing your method of finding level for your posts on your sloped yard. I absolutely love it!

Seasonal And Holiday

2x4 Outdoor Sectional Sofa

Submitted by lknolan2 on Sat, 04/18/2020 - 20:19

Great Plan! Loved how easy it was to build and how little the cost was.

Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Outdoor deck stain by Valspar in Canyon Brown
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

jwood4

Sun, 08/01/2021 - 18:40

Looks amazing! What method did you use (pocket holes, dowels, deck screws, etc) to join the visible portions like the arms?

Seasonal And Holiday

Wood Closet Shelving

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 01/13/2022 - 09:01

My closet system is four separate units that I butted up together and attached to the wall with a "decorative" 2x4 railing around the entirety of the closet. The main unit looks the closest to the real design but is 8 feet long and 8 feet tall to avoid extra cutting of boards. The smaller unit only has one area for hanging up clothes and is around 5 feet long which is just the length of the wall. I also built a unit for holding sheets and towels and another for my wife's shoes.

The plans are really easy to follow but I would suggest a few things:
-Do stain and boards before cutting; this would have been a nightmare otherwise.
-If you use the metal clothing rods (if I could go back in time I would have used wooden dowels) make sure that you put those in before you attach any boards between the support structures. I ended up having a 35 inch gap instead of a 36 inch gap and it killed my momentum.
-I made mine 8 feet tall because it was less to cut and then re-stain; time wise it probably was a scratch cause I had to build it in place and at the end it was very tight to work in the space.

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Outdoor sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 10/02/2019 - 04:17

Made the outdoor sectional. The coffee table was made out of left over pieces!

Estimated Cost
$260
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
We used a semi transparent stain applied with brush. We would recommend a hand sprayer instead.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Sandbox with Cover

The cover is a tonneau cover for a pickup truck. It's for a 6.5' truck bed so if you notice, I had to ad a 2x4 and one more picket on top to accommodate the extra length. 

The cover would add a ridiculous amount of money to the project but it was repurposed.  I found it on a truck that was in an accident and going to the scrap yard. I think it it came out great and my grandson loves it.

John

Built from Plan(s)

Bathroom corner vanity

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/12/2017 - 12:49

This project started because a corner bathroom vanity that fit my space requirements and budget did not exist. A plan specific to what I exactly needed also did not exist. After combing through what plans I found online, the Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet best matched what I wanted. I modified it with the Momplex Sink Base Kitchen Cabinet in order to turn it into a sink base.

 

But, there was a problem. I hadn't actually built anything before. In order to get at least one project under my belt, I built the Vintage Step Stool. It turned out great, so I figured I was ready to go! Strangely enough, after spending about $100 and several weekends picking away at this project, it was done! It looked great, even. Then, I moved the vanity into the bathroom and realized that, while it may have looked great, it wasn't very square. Lesson learned was that this is a two person project. It is too difficult to keep things square and screw at the same time when there is only one person.

 

At this point, everyone was tired of having to use the kitchen sink to brush their teeth and wash their hands, so we needed to get this project done. $100 later, we had more material. Since I had figured out what needed to be done with the first vanity, let's call it our prototype, the second vanity went together REALLY quickly. 

 

Within a few hours, it was pieced together. Since it was going to be painted, we used Bondo to cover up our imperfections. Yes, of course there were imperfections. While much better than the prototype, it still was only my third woodworking project. Sanding, caulking, and priming took another hour or so. A few coats of the finish paint went on, followed by a couple more coats of a clear sealer, and it was done.

 

We moved it into place, screwed it to the wall, put the soapstone countertop on along with the sink and faucet, and it truly was complete. Sink is Kohler, faucet came from our local Habitat for Humanity store and I'm not sure what brand it is, and the soapstone came from soapstones.com. If we had oiled the soapstone with mineral oil, it would be a very dark gray.

Estimated Cost
$100-$150 for the wood, screws, caulk, primer, paint, and clearcoat.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Pratt & Lambert Azalea 5-12 and Designer White 33-1 for the colors. After each application dried, I sanded it with a very fine grit sandpaper to make the finish silky smooth. I also used our air compressor to blow the dust off, and then used a damp cloth to wipe it down before applying more coats. That worked better for me than using a tack cloth. Then, I added a few coats of a water based, heavy duty floor finish, meant for wet areas. I don't recall what brand it was.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Cedar Garden Shed

We needed a way to get all of the lawn & garden stuff out of our garage and organized. I found Ana's plans for the Small Cedar Shed & adjusted them to fit our space. We used 2x4s as our studs & added front walls on the sides. Our shed measures 9.5'x30". We had a concrete slab poured for our foundation. We are experienced DIYer's but had never taken on a project of this scale from scratch. This project was much easier than I was anticipating, and we were able to complete it in one weekend! Similar shed kits were way more expensive and not the size that we were looking for. Thank you so much for the inspiration!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

2x4 outdoor cedar couch with ottoman

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/04/2023 - 11:51

I used pocket holes to hide the screws. I made an ottoman out of the outdoor coffee table plans to my dimensions that can be used as a coffee table when we need it.

Comments