Community Brag Posts

First building project ever!

Submitted by mcrawford on Mon, 12/18/2017 - 14:48

SUCH a great project for my first ever build! The plans were so simple and fun to follow. I altered them slightly to measure 50" long so it would fit perfectly in my entry way. I used the Varathane wood stain in Dark Walnut. Can't wait for my next project! Ana, thank you for giving first time builders the tools and confidence to build beautiful furniture!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
22$
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Varathane in Dark Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Laundry Sorter

Submitted by CPeezy on Sat, 05/23/2020 - 20:17

My wife had begged and begged for something like this, so I took the plunge. This was my first build and I’m getting the itch to try other things! We built the ship lap wall and sign together as well!

Comments

2x4 Outdoor Sectional Sofa

Submitted by lknolan2 on Sat, 04/18/2020 - 20:19

Great Plan! Loved how easy it was to build and how little the cost was.

Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Outdoor deck stain by Valspar in Canyon Brown
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

jwood4

Sun, 08/01/2021 - 18:40

Looks amazing! What method did you use (pocket holes, dowels, deck screws, etc) to join the visible portions like the arms?

Seasonal And Holiday

Modern Adirondack Chair, Super Sized

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/21/2020 - 10:39

Am a big fan of Ana's work, and have used several of her plans in prior builds including the more traditional Adirondack chairs. Those stayed with my old house, and I wanted something different for my new house. Really liked her Modern Adirondack design with the floating arm rest. However, plans are like recipes to me--a guideline. I wanted the back boards to run up and down, and I am a bit more robust than the lovely and petite Ms. White, so they would need to be wider after I built the first one at 19 1/2" wide per plan. The next three I made 22" wide and that worked well without throwing off the geometry and angles of the other parts. Since I ran the backboards up and down, I needed some cross beams for stability and to give an attachment point for the middle of the boards. Cut some 2x4s at 15" wide, drilled pocket holes in both ends, and attached in between the back supports with the pockets facing up to be hidden by the back boards. All of the 2x4s were leftover cut-offs from the houses being built in my neighborhood. Since the frames were free, I splurged and went with cedar boards for the backs and bottoms. With the wider frames, I had to use 1x12s ripped down to 10 3/4" to get the right look (about a board's width in between). Needed some color, so I painted the frames Teal Seaglass from Menards. Cedar was stained with a natural deck stain from Sherwin Williams. I experimented with salt paint (mixing unsanded grout with the paint) to give a heavily textured and weathered finish but this was unecessary--the wood was distressed enough and I am a terrible painter. It also toned down the color so I skipped that step and just went with 2 coats of plain paint. It looks like outdoor furniture should up close. As always, am pleased with Ana's plans. Thank you for doing all the hard work!

Estimated Cost
about $200 for all 4 chairs due to cedar and paint
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Paint - Pittsburgh matte exterior with Dutch Boy coloring Teal Seaglass
Stain - Sherwin Williams Superdeck stain, Natural finish
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Sliding "barn" door from reclaimed pallet wood

I saw many different sliding door projects online, so I did my own spin on one. I was able to get several old pallets for free (pine and oak). I went to Lowes and bought a few 2x3s which I used as the frame, and the track hardware which was only $13! Most doors I see are mounted from the wall, but since I have 7' ceilings downstairs I mounted mine from the ceiling. This project only took about 4 hours total and cost about $40 when you figure in costs for screws, stain, etc. The most difficult part was taking apart the pallets. Using a reciprocating saw with a 12'' demolition blade is the best way to take them apart. Thanks for the idea Ana.

Estimated Cost
$40
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Dark Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

BREATHESMILEBE

Mon, 05/13/2013 - 20:00

Hi!!
This looks so awesome! I came across this and was hoping to repeat it. You mention that you found the door hanging hardware at Lowes for $13. I can't seem to find it. Do you happen to remember the name of it? I'm entering "hanging door hardware" into Lowes and Home Depot and can't seem to find any hanging door hardware at all. I'd appreciate the help. Thanks!
Tina

Full Size Camp Loft

Submitted by jcygan on Wed, 09/30/2015 - 16:37

We modified the plans for the Camp Loft Bed to accommodate a full size mattress.  We also extended the platform so that the bed spread wall to wall in the bedroom.  Since the platform was extended, we added a short railing to prevent falls.  The height was pushed up to make it taller than the junior size of the original design.  This way we were able to place a desk and add 2 pine shelves underneath the head of the bed.  

We added a board along the long side at the bottom to take out some wiggling.  The bed itself still seemed a little shaky until we attached the platform and now it is rock solid.  We have had 1-2 adults and multiple kids up there at the same time with no problem.

The bed itself could have been built in a weekend.  However, the time it took to sand, stain, and clear coat added many more hours.  Those hours were definitely worth it for a finished product.

Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
We used the medium warm stain used on the original bed. The directions are found here: http://ana-white.com/2012/07/medium-warm-stain
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Albright777

Fri, 10/02/2015 - 10:43

Thank you so much for posting this.  My oldest wants a loft bed, but has a full right now.  I am building my 2 youngest the junior loft this fall and the oldest was jealous.  I was scared to build one.  Afraid it would not hold up.  Thank you for showing that it does.  Great job!!!

 

Second Project: table saw/ miter saw work bench

Submitted by jamesjill on Sat, 01/30/2021 - 20:34

Used part of the Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand to just build one of the roll-away workbenches to work with my miter saw and table saw. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Wood Closet Shelving

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 01/13/2022 - 09:01

My closet system is four separate units that I butted up together and attached to the wall with a "decorative" 2x4 railing around the entirety of the closet. The main unit looks the closest to the real design but is 8 feet long and 8 feet tall to avoid extra cutting of boards. The smaller unit only has one area for hanging up clothes and is around 5 feet long which is just the length of the wall. I also built a unit for holding sheets and towels and another for my wife's shoes.

The plans are really easy to follow but I would suggest a few things:
-Do stain and boards before cutting; this would have been a nightmare otherwise.
-If you use the metal clothing rods (if I could go back in time I would have used wooden dowels) make sure that you put those in before you attach any boards between the support structures. I ended up having a 35 inch gap instead of a 36 inch gap and it killed my momentum.
-I made mine 8 feet tall because it was less to cut and then re-stain; time wise it probably was a scratch cause I had to build it in place and at the end it was very tight to work in the space.

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Modified Octagon Picnic Table

I built the octagon picnic table, and modified in a couple of ways.

1) Due to project deadline (Christmas) (and cost) I opted for composite decking for a finished top and bench, and pressure-treated 2x framing stock. Builder beware! Composite decking can be 5 1/4" wide, which impacts the spacing between the pieces, which means re-calculating most of the table-top pieces. Also, I added lateral structure underneath the benches (more weight!)

2) I really wanted that hole in the center, and hope that my solution (which slightly weakens the overall structural integrity) withstands the test of time.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
350
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Advanced

Grill table with stainless steel top

Submitted by krochelle on Tue, 08/20/2013 - 08:00

I made this table to go next to an outdoor grill to be used as a food prep area or just a surface for holding ingredients (instead of using the deck railing!). The top is stainless steel which fits tightly over 2 3/4" pieces of plywood laminated together. The bar/handle in front is made out of galvanized pipe. All wood was treated.

Legs - 4x4 posts
Bottom shelf - 1x6's
Sides - 1x4's
Top - 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together with a stainless steel top (custom fit) over top
Towel bar - galvanized pipe (cut and threaded to size at Lowe's), floor flanges and 90 degree elbows

Estimated Cost
$120
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
I used Kona stain but since it was over treated wood the stain did not take as dark as it should have. I will have to restain this piece after it has completely dried out.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

spiceylg

Tue, 08/20/2013 - 09:07

Love this. Where did you get the stainless steel top? Did you have to special order to fit?

In reply to by spiceylg

krochelle

Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:33

Sorry about the late reply! Yes, I just gave my dimensions to a local steel supplier and they made the top. I think I have about $40 into the stainless. They didn't weld the corners but I've never had an issue with them.

krochelle

Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:46

No...I didn't have any plans when I built it but it's a very simple concept. I chose to use all treated wood since I knew it would be sitting outside unprotected. However, my 4x4 posts weren't square so this caused a lot of problems and everything was built to fit. I believe I just used 4x4's, 1X6s (for the bottom shelf) and 1x4s for the sides (top and bottom). For the top, I just laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together to bulk it up and then had the stainless top built to fit. It fit perfectly so I didn't glue it to the plywood. This makes it easy to remove and clean, if necessary. For the galvanized pipe (towel bar), I bought it at Lowe's and had them cut/thread it to fit my dimensions.

Bathroom corner vanity

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/12/2017 - 12:49

This project started because a corner bathroom vanity that fit my space requirements and budget did not exist. A plan specific to what I exactly needed also did not exist. After combing through what plans I found online, the Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet best matched what I wanted. I modified it with the Momplex Sink Base Kitchen Cabinet in order to turn it into a sink base.

 

But, there was a problem. I hadn't actually built anything before. In order to get at least one project under my belt, I built the Vintage Step Stool. It turned out great, so I figured I was ready to go! Strangely enough, after spending about $100 and several weekends picking away at this project, it was done! It looked great, even. Then, I moved the vanity into the bathroom and realized that, while it may have looked great, it wasn't very square. Lesson learned was that this is a two person project. It is too difficult to keep things square and screw at the same time when there is only one person.

 

At this point, everyone was tired of having to use the kitchen sink to brush their teeth and wash their hands, so we needed to get this project done. $100 later, we had more material. Since I had figured out what needed to be done with the first vanity, let's call it our prototype, the second vanity went together REALLY quickly. 

 

Within a few hours, it was pieced together. Since it was going to be painted, we used Bondo to cover up our imperfections. Yes, of course there were imperfections. While much better than the prototype, it still was only my third woodworking project. Sanding, caulking, and priming took another hour or so. A few coats of the finish paint went on, followed by a couple more coats of a clear sealer, and it was done.

 

We moved it into place, screwed it to the wall, put the soapstone countertop on along with the sink and faucet, and it truly was complete. Sink is Kohler, faucet came from our local Habitat for Humanity store and I'm not sure what brand it is, and the soapstone came from soapstones.com. If we had oiled the soapstone with mineral oil, it would be a very dark gray.

Estimated Cost
$100-$150 for the wood, screws, caulk, primer, paint, and clearcoat.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Pratt & Lambert Azalea 5-12 and Designer White 33-1 for the colors. After each application dried, I sanded it with a very fine grit sandpaper to make the finish silky smooth. I also used our air compressor to blow the dust off, and then used a damp cloth to wipe it down before applying more coats. That worked better for me than using a tack cloth. Then, I added a few coats of a water based, heavy duty floor finish, meant for wet areas. I don't recall what brand it was.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

2x4 outdoor cedar couch with ottoman

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/04/2023 - 11:51

I used pocket holes to hide the screws. I made an ottoman out of the outdoor coffee table plans to my dimensions that can be used as a coffee table when we need it.

Comments

Master Bath Barn Door

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/17/2017 - 16:34

Created this door with pine wood tongue and groove lumber and pine wood planks. Purchase barn door hardware / track from Jet.com and door handles from Hobby Lobby. 

 

This replaced my Master bath door and I think came out pretty good. Thank you for the ideas!!!  Jeff M.   Brownstown, Mi

Estimated Cost
Wood 55.00
Handles 2 for 8.00
Stain ( left overs)
Barn door track 54.00

Total $117.00 and 10 % Military discount at lowes
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax. Mix of Kona and Driftwood Grey
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Simple Square Cedar Outdoor Dining Table

Submitted by Finns-Dad on Mon, 03/12/2012 - 17:58

I've been planning on building a patio table for this coming spring and summer, but didn't know where to begin. I found Ana's wonderful site and now I don't know where to stop! So many great ideas.
After seeing ewood's great table I decided to make one similar. I made my square table based on Ana's and ewood's basic designs. Thank you both. I also made a bench based on Ana's design.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
300--475
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Semigloss Spar Urethane
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

7CsShepherds (not verified)

Thu, 03/29/2012 - 07:37

I have a family of 7 (soon to be 8, I hope), and was trying to figure out how to fit us all on the rectangular table. This is the solution! I can simply make 4 benches to go with it! Thanks for the idea and the picture!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:24

Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.

K_W (not verified)

Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:27

Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.

In reply to by K_W (not verified)

Finns-Dad

Sat, 04/14/2012 - 13:35

Hi - sorry it took a little while to get back to you. Yes the legs are 4x4's. I used knotted cedar 4x4's for the legs and made them 29" tall. I wanted to be able to disassemble the table and put it away for winter, so I attached the legs using carriage bolts, 2 per side (4 total per leg). I drilled holes using a pilot bit, then used a spatter bit to make the larger holes for the carriage bolt.

I didn't bother to counter sink them, but if I made another I think I would try that to make a more polished look. The legs are sturdy, the table doesn't wobble at all, but I am sure that someone with more furniture building experience might have a different/better idea.

I've added a couple more photos showing the corners, outside and underneath. I've also added my very basic plans that I used to make the table, one of these days I will study Ana's post of how to use sketch-up, until then this is what I worked with.

Joni

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 09:26

Can you tell me what size (width) boards you used on the frame pieces of the table, and what size on the inner boards? From your diagrams, it looks like the frame is made of 1x4s, but the inner pieces look smaller. Thank you !!!

Your table is absolutely beautiful. It looks like a very high-end piece of furniture. One of my favorite things is how the carriage bolts are installed -- I wouldn't change a thing on them!

In reply to by Joni

Finns-Dad

Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:36

Sorry it took so long to reply - I didn't see your post. So far the table is holding up well.

You're right, the top is made from 1x4's, including the inlaid slats. To support the top, I cut 1x4's down to 1x3's so they remain hidden by the side 1x4's of the frame.

Aussie Paul (not verified)

Tue, 10/16/2012 - 18:02

Love the table - looks absolutely fantastic! I have been looking for a decent square outdoor table for ages and this one certainly fits the bill.

Can you please add a photo of the underside of the table and advise how you fastened inner boards on table top. Thanks.

In reply to by Aussie Paul (not verified)

Finns-Dad

Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:40

I added a new photo of the bottom. Hopefully this will help show how I attached the top. I have a number of additional photo's I can send to you if you like - this site limits the number of photos I can add.

Everything is attached from the bottom to hide the screws. I used a kreg jig and it helped so much - i really recommend it.

Belmo

Wed, 08/14/2013 - 12:35

I love the look of this table, man - I think I'm gonna steal some ideas from this.

I have a question about your top, though. The slats look to be 1x4s, which I can understand, but the edges seem to be a bigger size.

Did you use 1x6 boards for the edges? 1x8s? Something else?

Thanks for your help.

Finns-Dad

Mon, 09/02/2013 - 11:03

Thank you - please take any ideas from it that you can. That is what I love that about Ana's site. You can take these great ideas and make them fit your own style...

You're right - the table top is made of 1x4's and 1x6's. When i put the top together I made the frame first. Then I added the exterior 1x6's. Next I added the center 1x6. Lastly I cut each 1x4 to size and added them.

livingston.140

Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15

This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.

Thanks again, your work is beautiful!

livingston.140

Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15

This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.

Thanks again, your work is beautiful!

leitaf

Wed, 04/22/2020 - 20:37

In looking at the plans and the underside of the table, there are some measurements missing that make it a little hard to decipher. It would be good to know the lumber sizes e.g. 1x4x8 etc. the underneath side seems to have some additional boards that don’t seem to be in the drawing. I was just wondering if it might be possible to get some additional details?

@njhorseplayer

Sun, 05/24/2020 - 08:05

This is a beautiful table and I'm going to try and replicate in a rectangular version. Primary question I have is what length screws you used to affix the framing pieces underneath to the top side so that the wood doesn't split and that the screws don't pop thru the top. Any help you can provide would be appreciated, if even you still look at this page. Thanks in advance!

Modern Geo Headboard

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 11/03/2019 - 08:48

For more information and photos see House of Rumors in Instagram www.instagram.com/houseofrumours 

Comments

Outdoor bar table

Submitted by hueybp on Tue, 07/21/2020 - 20:06

Not quite finished but love the table already. Trying to decide how to stain/paint it. The Kreg jig was a must for this project. It was my first of hopefully many! I used cedar for the 4x4s and 2x6 top pieces. The 2x4s are treated lumber (only because there were no more cedar ones....apparently lumber is getting hard to get lately!!!). Anyway....thanks for the great plans and motivation for this project.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Lumber was about $150 bucks (I bought mitre saw and kreg jig, too)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Will probably use semi transparent stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Night Stands custom sized and finished

Submitted by pondrider on Thu, 01/15/2015 - 07:50

Night Stands custom sized and finished per customer building new home based Ana White's Farm House collection  #‎anawhite‬  

Intentional distressing per customer request with guidance from Ana White plans.   Finish contains a mix of paint, removing of paint, staining and restraining.   Now to move to a purposeful Mud Room Locker for a new home suited for family. 

http://ana-white.com/users/pondrider/
#anawhite   #Stain   #CustomFurniture   #Paint 

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Finish contains a mix of paint, removing of paint, staining and restraining.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Best Chairs Ever!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/09/2020 - 18:16

I made these modern Adirondack chairs for our business in Anchorage. GREAT and easy to build design by Ana - we upgraded the arms to tapered 2x6 and they're awesome!

Pizza Oven Cart

Not quite big enough for Pizza Oven, but love the plans!

Comments