1. Home
  2. Plan Catalog

Simple Play Kitchen Stove

|save this plan
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
| Print this plan

This cute little stove is easy to make and will thrill little ones for years to come. Solid wood. Can also be used as a nightstand or a play dishwasher.

You will first need to construct a <a href="http://ana-white.com/2009/10/grace-playhouse-kitchen-sink_9146.html">sink from these plans.</a>  This plan is simply for a door to convert the sink to a stove.

Dimensions
20" high x 16" wide x 12" deep (same as stove)

Preparation

Shopping List

In addition to the supplies you need for the sink, also pick up: 

  • 1x4 
  • 1x2 
  • 4 - 2" to 3" wooden discs (found at Joanns or Michaels for wooden wheels on toy trucks in the wood section) 
  • 1 - 10" bar pull 
  • 1 - 10 x 12 piece of plexiglass, used for picture frames (found at Home Depot and Lowes with the plexiglass sheets, should be under $1) 
  • 1 - set of self closing hinges (should be about $2 at Home Depot)
Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 - 1x2 @ 14" 

2 - 1x4 @ 12"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build the sink.

Step 2

Use 2 1/2" nails to nail through the sides of the 1x2 into the edge of the 1x4, as shown above. Nail on all four sides. You can also use pocket hole screws (recommended) or carefully predrill a pilot hole with a countersink bit and attach. Not comfortable with that? A few cheap brackets could do the trick too.

Step 3

Drill a hole in the plexigalss where each screw will go to prevent the plexiglass from cracking. Then use 3/4" screws to screw the plexiglass to the door frame as shown above.

Many of our brilliant readers use mirror clips to hold the plexiglass in place.

Step 4

Add the handle as shown above. Be creative!

Step 5

Project Type
Play Kitchen Collection
Room
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

Charlene (not verified)

Tue, 06/01/2010 - 06:29

Hi Ana! Your website is great! I am determined for my daughters to have a play kitchen of their own, but do not want to spend an arm and a leg for a quality one. Thanks for posting these plans. I noticed that in this post, you mentioned posting plans for a larger kitchen set, but I didn't see any while I was browsing through the list of posted plans. Have you just not gotten around to it? Thanks so much for all your time and effort! I love it!

Lomax Sawyer (not verified)

Thu, 10/21/2010 - 18:07

was wondering what the dimensions were for the sink , stove and refrigerator sets . thanks Lomax Sawyer

Kelly Ryan (not verified)

Thu, 10/28/2010 - 11:44

Just wanted to thank you so much for the plans. We are currently building this set for our daughter as a Christmas Present and it is adorable! We have come across one discrepancy in the plans though. For the cut list you have listed to use a 1x12 for the top, bottom, and shelf. This is fine for the sink but if you do this for the stove then your door won't be able to close. I'm guessing the shelf should read as a 1x10? We're just planning on cutting it down about a inch or so to accommodate the door. But hopefully this will save someone else that extra step:) Thanks again...I'm already looking forward to starting some more projects once this one is finished.

kelley (not verified)

Wed, 12/08/2010 - 07:05

I had the same problem with the shelf for the stove. Thankfully I thought about it before nailing it into the frame.

Build your tod… (not verified)

Thu, 12/09/2010 - 00:32

[...] More power to you. Chloe’s folks from Rambling Renovators followed the instructions from Grace’s Play Stove at Ana-White.com and embellished with a magnetic hinge for the oven door and a little LED light to glow when food is [...]

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 05/18/2011 - 11:57

I love your site and it has inspired to tackle many projects. Before you converted over to this site you had many other pictures from other readers kitchens. One in particular was a pink retro style kitchen. Do you still have that info. I love these plans and would like to modify to be similar to that kitchen but now have no way to find it again! Thank you so much for being such an inspiration!

Faith (not verified)

Thu, 08/18/2011 - 01:31

Thanks so much Anna for these amazing plans, and especially for posting them for free! I bet these could be built at even less cost using old nightstands, bookshelves or cupboards, which often can be picked up for free.

Jessi C. (not verified)

Sat, 08/27/2011 - 23:39

I followed all of the directions to a T but for some reason my oven door is too large to fit inside the opening for the cabinet (followed the sink plans). It is almost exactly an inch too wide. The opening is 14 & 5/8" and my door is 15.5". Any suggestions on what I can do? I don't understand what happened!

Crystal A (not verified)

Sat, 09/24/2011 - 21:07

I am having the same problem with the oven door... It is to small to be full overlay, but too large to fit insie the oven frame opening. This is the second door that I have made because I thought I did something wrong the first time.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 12/12/2011 - 11:42

We are having the same problem with the door - too big to fit inside but not big enough to completely cover... Did anyone figure this out?

claydowling

Mon, 12/12/2011 - 11:57

You can fix the door sizing problem by ripping a small amount off the width of the door on each side. Easiest to do on a table saw, but if you don't have one and don't have a friend with one, you can pull it off with a circular saw and a straight edge, or ideally a circular saw jig.

This might also be a good time to pick up a block plane and learn how to use it. Professional cabinet makers usually have to adjust inset doors slightly with a block plane after they install them. The good news is that they're cheap and don't take a lot of skill to use.

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 12/14/2011 - 22:34

Ana,
We just made the sink and stove and didn't realize until we were attaching the oven door that the dimensions are all wrong. The set is already painted and we don't have enough time to build another one. Please change the dimensions listed so more people don't have the same problem. Thanks.

~kat (not verified)

Sun, 12/18/2011 - 14:49

We didn't have a lot of extra wood laying around but we had two old tall dressers that we had no use for as they had small drawers. One we gutted and turned into your locker cubby for my grandkids. The other we cut the top two drawer sections off and made it a small toy chest. The remaining section was just high enough to turn into a combined sink/stove for this play kitchen. I can't wait to finish it up and give it to my grandkids for xmas. Thanks for sharing these ideas. I didn't follow any plan but I made it work. Thank gosh hubby is a carpenter and can go with the flow. :)

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/18/2012 - 13:29

Hi! I Just built this kitchen for my daughter and i love it! I'm almost finished, just working on painting it, but i can't seem to find the correct hinges anywhere. Where can i get some like in yours? All the most i've seen mount on the outside aren't to go flush....does that makes sense? ANyway, i'm going to have to order them online since i live in the middle of nowhere so if you know of a place, or site that i can get them from, i'd greatly appreciate it, thanks so much! And thanks for the awesome plans, can't wait for my kids to enjoy this

makeitwork (not verified)

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 04:52

If you happen to build the stove door without insetting the shelf or adjusting the width of your cross pieces so that it will inset, there is an easy work around. There is no reason the door has to inset into the frame (in fact for little fingers it may be better that it doesn't?). Anyway, line the door up on the outside of the frame and install hinges. At the dimensions given there will be a small gap at the top of the door. Go to the hardware and get a piece of 3/4 x 5/8 quarter round molding, cut it to the width of the door, and glue/nail it in place. Sand, prime, paint as usual. Hope this helps someone. We did it and it looks great after I paint I will post a brag picture.

AddieG (not verified)

Sun, 06/10/2012 - 11:06

I built the play kitchen and it looks amazing! I had issues with the oven door, but what worked for me was an old kitchen cabinet that I bought at Habitat Restore for $2.50. the size and detail were perfect! I also picked up hinges for $1.00.

Shanda B (not verified)

Thu, 11/08/2012 - 21:25

I just built, sanded and primed it only to see that the oven door doesn't work. So frustrating!! The shelf in the middle is not like the sink, use a 1x10 instead. I also think it would be wise to cut your oven door to fit after the cabinet is built. I guess I will be taking this apart and making another trip to the hardware store.

sarahcarioca (not verified)

Tue, 12/18/2012 - 22:49

Every single brag post as well as the diagrams show an inset oven door and a recessed shelf. But the dimensions for the cuts do not allow for this! Can you please explain what we're supposed to do here?

murtina567

Sun, 10/05/2014 - 07:45

so cute i wish i could own this stove i think this good reference and all the display you provide i want really want it

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!