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Classic Chair Plans

Classic Chairs Made Simple
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Simple chairs with an upholstered seat. Comfortable and oversized with base supports. Free plans from Ana-White.com

 

 

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Classic Chair Plans

Dimensions
Classic Chairs Made Simple
Dimensions are shown above. This is a BIG chair . . . just a little warning. You can easily modify the size by simply cutting the aprons to a smaller size.

Preparation

Shopping List

1×6 @ 3 feet long

1 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1×4 @6 feet long

1 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long

1 – 2×4 @ stud or 8 feet length

1 – 1/2″ scrap plywood for seat top, 19″ x 19″

1 yard of fabric

1 piece of foam, 19″ x 19″ x 1″ thick

3/8″ staples

1 1/4″ pocket hole screws

Cut List

2 – 2×4 @ 38 1/4″ (Chair back legs)

2 – 1×4 @ 17 1/2″ (Side Aprons)

2 – 2×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Legs)

2 – 1×4 @ 16″ (Front/Back Aprons)

4 – 2×2 @ 4″ (Supports – both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)

1 – 1×2 @ 16″ (Seat Back Top)

2 – 1×6 @ 16″ (Seat Back)

2 – 1×2 @ 19″ (Longest point, one end cut at 8 degrees off square)

1 – 1×2 @ 16 3/4″ (Center Support)

1/2″ plywood @ 19″ x 19″ (Seat top)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Back Legs

If you follow these steps carefully, you can cut back legs that are straight and symmetrically to each other. Mark the legs as shown in the diagram. The front – where the chair leg connects to the side aprons – needs to be cut in 1/4″ to account for rounded edges on 2x4s. The goal is to make as many cuts as possible with a circular saw, but you will need to finish inside cuts on the back with a jigsaw. Follow the diagram above carefully. I advise taking the scrap piece of 2×4 and cutting a leg first from it to get some practice. Once your legs are cut, lay them together, and check to make sure that the top, bottom and front sides all match. The other parts are not as significant. Sand your cuts smooth.

Step 2

Side Aprons

Attach the side aprons to the back legs, flush to the bottom of the front cuts on your chair back legs. Make sure the two leg pieces still match up – if not, your chair is going to be crooked!

Step 3

Front Legs

Attach the front legs to the side aprons as shown above. The tops are flush, and your chair part should match up at this point.

Step 4

Front/Back Aprons

Attach the front and back aprons, carefully predrilling. I used pocket hole screws and glue. Top is flush.

Step 5

Step 6

Seat Back Top

Attach the seat back top as shown above.

Step 7

Seat back

I used pocket holes from the back but you can also use predrilled screws from the legs. Attach as shown above.

Step 8

Base Support

The base supports will add considerable strength to your chairs. Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Base Center

Attach the base center to the sides as shown in the diagram above.

Step 10

Seat

Spray glue the seat cushion to the seat top plywood. Lay fabric facedown on table with seat top on top of fabric, foam side down. Staple fabric carefully to the underside of the chair, tucking corners neatly. Use 2″ screws to attach the seat to the cross supports or use pocket hole screws.

Step 11

This chair was painted with Valspar Antique White in Flat Enamel, three coats. A top coat (Valspar satin finish poly) was added. The fabric is from Joanns, and is part of the Home Decorator’s 45″ wide fabric, and was on sale for $5 a yard. For a foam pad, I used a discarded chair pad cut to size. Total cost of this chair was under $20.

Project Type
Chairs
Room
dining room
Style
Cottage Style Furniture Plans

Comments

Gerri (not verified)

Sun, 01/23/2011 - 18:57

Ana, has anyone ever told you how much YOU ROCK?!? of course they have, but I'm here to tell you again. ;)

I've been wanting to ask for a chair similar to this, but with all of the website struggles lately, I wanted to wait til you were a little less occupied. But look, you read my mind-woo hoo!!

One question-I would really like to make the seat out of boards running front to back (2x4maybe?) would you mind offering suggestions on how to do that?

Thank you so much again! You have really changed my thought process on furnishing my home. :)

Jess (not verified)

Sun, 01/23/2011 - 19:22

These are great! I was wondering how long it traditionally took you to post a brag blog submission. I submitted it on Friday and i am really excited to share my build with the world. Thank you so much for your inspiration and giving my husband something we can do together.

Sophie (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 03:27

Yesterday I was looking at a photo in Coastal Living magazine, where some simple chairs very much like this had been custom built for a room - and wondering aloud if I could design some like them. I don't have a miter saw - only a circular saw or a handsaw when I want to be more precise...
Ana, now I am convinced you are writing this just for me ;-)
Can't wait to get started on these!!

Tasha (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 05:29

I really like it! I've been wanting a simple chair. We built the lap desk for a Christmas present for a brother and the chalk board for my son for Christmas. I truly enjoy your plans and love seeing your new designs everyday. With four month and cold garage, I can't build now, but am hoping to do so when the weather warms up. Thank you.

Bonnie (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 07:04

Ana, what a GREAT chair! I have one almost like it that I have done in Sketchup. Your other chairs are wonderful, but as most of the people in my family are on the hefty side, and I needed one with more size and structural supports. I am despirately in need of everyday kitchen chairs. So I also put the cross members for the legs on the bottom, and the corner braces under the seat. I have been however, trying to decide what material to make it from when i get to that point. Like I said, as my family members are on the heafty side, I have seriously been considering using a good quality plywood. Making my own 2x4's by cutting 2x4 sized pieces of 3/4 ply, then gluing the together for the legs. Then making the cuts for the back legs / back of the chair. Ply is SO strong! And as I will probably paint the chairs not stain them, plus with some thorough sanding, the ply layers would prob not show anyway. I know that cutting all those pieces will be a lot of work, plus I am adding additional cost to the chairs by using a good quality ply, but thats ok. I have a straight edge that allows me to make pretty precise straight cuts on plywood with a circular saw. Thanks again for that wonderful chair!!

Sara (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 07:17

This is fantastic! I'm getting ready to build a breakfast nook into our new kitchen (bench window seats and all). I'd been planning to buy chairs for it, but I think I may try these instead! You rock :)

Michelle (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 07:58

I get intimidated just THINKING about building a chair...but I'm getting very close to just going for it! I better finish up 2 other projects that I'm working on right now and then maybe I'll have the confidence to do it!! I love the simplistic style of this chair!!

jdub (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 10:13

I think your chair looks great and I personally like the filler not matching the chair perfectly. It gives it a yesteryear kind of look when the plugs always stained as a different colour. Very nice

Rebecca R (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 14:53

This is great! Now how would I modify it to make it bar height? I made the craft table, but need a chair that height to go with it and this would be perfect!!

Kayla (not verified)

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 04:18

Love this plan thank you! I have chairs like this in my dining room and in addition to fabric, I got a clear plastic vinyl (you can get it at Walmart) and put that over the fabric (attached with staples just like the fabric). With five kids, it makes the chairs so much easier to stay clean. It has been over five years and they are just starting to have wear issues.... which is perfect timing because after five years I need a fabric change! :)

Anneke (not verified)

Sat, 01/29/2011 - 23:02

I have been working on the same thing, just for counter height...not sure if just changing the angle works??? I like the tapered leg versus straight, but don't want too much of an angle. Hmmmm???

Tracy Smith (not verified)

Tue, 02/15/2011 - 16:02

Saw your chair and LOVE it!! Looks so good. Did you use the pocket-hole plugs on your chair, or wood filler? I was a bit confused and unsure as to which you used. We (my hubby and I) are in the process of building a console table (plans to come shortly to Ana-White.com) and are using the pocket-hole plugs that came with our Kreg Jig. I'm just wondering if ours will seem mis-matched too. Not that big of a deal, just curious before the stain goes on. Great job on your chair though, our next project is Ana's Classic Chair!

amywerttn

Wed, 09/07/2011 - 19:46

I have needed new dinning chairs for a while but haven't found any that are "my style" for a price I'm willing to shell out. ;) I can't wait to try this!

Mommyof4

Mon, 03/26/2012 - 18:57

I know this is a late post, I am new to the site and totally addicted. Just curious if there is an estimated weight limit? My immediate family is fairly small to average but some fairly frequent visitors are rather large. I would hate to make these chairs and have them possibly not withstand some of our heavier guests. They look fairly sturdy, just curious!

bundaboy

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 02:35

I know you crazy yanks have a weird lumber dimensioning system, but shouldn't the cut list be accurate? It would have been OK if the 4" was really 3-1/2" if I hadn't already drilled the pocket holes*... sigh... start again, (cry)

(edit: *and glued and screwed...)

bcrosby32

Sun, 10/04/2020 - 11:10

Late the party here. I’m prepping to make this chair but I was looking at the diagram of the back legs. Maybe I missed something but you have the top part of the leg at 3/4” and the waste at 3”, making the total more than the dimensions of a 2x4 (3 1/2”). What should the top part of the leg be?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!