Farmhouse Storage Bed with Hinged Footboard

View complete post at my blog: www.birdsandsoap.blogspot.com




My Farmhouse bed is finished! After a week of building, a nice long month and a half of procrastination, and (finally!) one night of painting, I have finished my bedroom. I'm so excited to post this blog entry because I couldn't be more pleased with the finished product. You don't know how bad I was tempted to disassemble the bed and put it out on my front lawn to photograph! I had to literally stand in the closet, on the dresser, and in the hallway get a shot of our tiny bedroom.

This bed is a variation on two plans from Ana White, it is a modified version of the Farmhouse bed and the Captain's bed plan, plus some of my own ideas for good measure.

I call it the "Farmhouse Storage Bed with Hinged Footboard."




I fell in love with the Farmhouse bed and knew it would definitely be my next project. I particularly love the tall headboard that sits so prominently above just begging to take notice. It is bold, timeless, and not too stuffy all at the same time.

I also love the footboard in this plan.

Here is my little ditty on footboards: A good footboard sits below the mattress; perfect for my husband and I since we hate knocking our feet into wood while we are trying to sleep. This footboard gives a nice clean, stylish look, yet sits low enough that it doesn't get in the way of our tootsies. You need a foot out to cool down a bit? No problem here. I feel that it is super important not to compromise on functionality for style especially when you are making your own furniture. By the time the project is finished, if you are like me, you will not be making further adjustments anytime soon. It also has nice depth of six inches which makes it great to sit on in the morning while putting on your shoes and socks.

The picture below is one of my favorites. This is a bragpost submitted by boxermum and I think it turned out fabulous! I love how beautiful the distressed finish turned out. Originally this was/is my plan. However, I love my bed just the way it turned out for now. I figured I would see how the finish holds up, and if it starts to look banged up in a year, I'll go all the way and distress it with a nice stain because once you distress a piece, you are committed.




With this plan in mind, the only thing missing for us was storage. We live in a tiny house and need every bit of space.




I loved the storage cubbies in the Captain's bed design (finally a place for all of our shoes; they triple overnight around here), yet was not a fan of the box at the end. I didn't like how it looked from the side view either, and I was set on incorporating the footboard from the Farmhouse plan.

So I decided to combine the two.




Following the directions for the Queen farmhouse plan, omitting the side rails, and adding two long storage cubbies to serve as the mattress platform, I set out to make the ultimate bed. I wasn't far into my plan when I realized that the cubbies would be a full seventeen inches high, and that meant that there would be some valuable storage space between the two and a perfect place to store our off-season clothes. So I devised a plan to make the footboard on a hinge that would lock in place and allow me to get under there without having to pull off the mattress and remove the slats.

Voila! Check out the hinging action:




This is my daughter demonstrating the massive amount of storage space that would otherwise be lost for all eternity:




She could totally sleep in there. It's like a panic room. If the Nazis come, we're under the bed and they'll never find us.

So here is the breakdown of my bed design:

A cost estimate is of course double what I had planned. The original Farmhouse was around $120 for materials, but with the addition of the storage cubbies, it was another $100 when things were all said and done. Still, well worth it, in my opinion. I'm not running down to Pottery Barn anytime soon and dropping a thousand dollars on a bed, are you?

I started with the cubbies first. Since the storage would be exposed on the sides of the bed only, I made the length to be exactly 80 inches, accomodating the entire length of a queen-sized mattress. I also wanted a deep storage space since many of the cute storage baskets are larger than twelve inches deep (plus shoes, remember?). So I chose a depth of 16 inches. Same goes for height. I noticed that the twin Captain's bed plans made called for cubbies at 15 inches high, but when I compared it to the Farmhouse plan, the top of the mattress would sit around 25"... since I wanted to make my mattress height appropriate to the Farmhouse head and footboards, I went with the 17 inch height for the cubbies. I chose to have 3 sections, each one being around 25 inches, plenty large to accomodate large baskets.

For the storage box building material, I chose 3/4" plywood, 1x2's to frame it out, and 1 sheet of 4x8 composite beadboard for the backing. Plus a few 1x3's to make the bed rails and slats in the center. I followed the building instructions for the Captain's bed, adjusting the numbers for my plan dimensions.

I purchased two sheets of plywood at Lowe's and ripped them at 16 inches wide for the top, bottom, sides, and dividers of my boxes. You end up with enough to make one box and some scrap from each sheet




(2) top pieces of the boxes measure 80" in length.
(2) bottom pieces measure 78 1/2" in length (allowing the end pieces to attach under the top piece)
(4) side or end pieces measuring 16 1/4" inches high (a 3/4 inch difference to allow the thickness of the top piece)
(4) dividers measuring 14 3/4 inches high. Make sure to refer to the plan instructions for the Captain's bed. The bottom piece is screwed in 3/4 inch from the bottom of the ends to allow for the front trim piece to be flush with the shelf bottom. I placed the dividers at 26" in from the sides, making each cubby space nearly equal (the center section ends up being around 25 1/2" after factoring in the 3/4 thickness of the plywood).

After I built the boxes, I trimmed them out with the 1x2's. Rough estimates for the length are as follows, but I recommend piecing them in after your boxes are finished, you end up with slight variances in length due to the nature of these things.

(4) 1x2's at 80" long
(8) 1x2's at 14" long (some of mine were a little less on the inside divider trim)

I worked my tail off sanding and filling. It took me two days (mind you, I've got the kids to raise as well) to complete the first box because I wanted everything to be completely smooth. Lots of sanding. However, the second box only took two hours! I filled sanded and primed my plywood before I assembled the boxes, it went quicker during assembly because I only needed to fill and sand the joints and touch up the primer. I loved using my nailgun for the trim, it is so fast and effortless!




When I was finished, I had two beautiful storage boxes. I cut the beadboard at 17" high (using the 4' width and two pieces to cover the back of the box...where my seam was, I was careful to sand and prime the joint beforehand, as well as tape the back to hold in place while the glue dried. Initially, I debated cutting the backing for each divider section so I could attach it behind the plywood dividers where no seams were visible, but I wouldn't have had enough length from one sheet of beadboard, plus there would be a ton of scrap. It turned out great, and only a perfectionist like me would care. I don't even think you can see anything since it sits on the ground and especially once all of your stuff is jammed in there.




Oh, and I attached the 1x3 rails along the back too, making sure to screw them in to the plywood 3/4" down from the top so that the slats would lay flush with the top of the boxes. the rails were 80" long and I measured my slats to be 28" wide. A queen mattress is 60" wide. I added two inches to the width of the bed because I didn't want the mattress to hang over the boxes and I knew that the sheets and other bedding would bulk things up (mattress+ cover+ featherbed+ sheet+ comforter). Here was my math:

3/4" trim +16" box depth +1/4"beadboard thickness = 17" x 2 boxes = 34"

60" queen mattress width - 34" for box widths = 26" slats +2" for wiggle room = 28" slats

We put the bed in our room and threw out our old boxspring. I was a little nervous to sleep without a boxspring, I thought our mattress might start sinking in the middle. Ana's directions said to place the slats close together and it would be fine. I think I used 10 or 12 slats and so far, the bed is holding up well.

Once those were out of the way, I turned my attention to the headboard. I began to assemble the center panel following the directions on the farmhouse plan. However, I noticed that in the farmhouse design, the bed rails attach to the INSIDE of the headboard posts, and since I had forgone the rails and made the storage boxes, I wanted them to attach between the headboard and footboard, CENTERED on the posts, not to the inside. Also, we live in a tiny house with a tiny bedroom, and leaving the posts to the outside would make our bed a near miss to our closet door in a tight space.This required me to make some adjustments. I had to narrow the widths of the headboard and footboard so that the storage boxes would attach on the center of the posts. According to Ana's plan and my plan, I had to shorten the headboard and footboard by 2". Of course I had already built the panel, and it was tricky to use my circular saw to cut through 3 pieces of wood at once, but I managed.

Here's me cutting down the footboard to length: (notice a missing 1x4 on the bottom "sandwich," I'll tell ya why later)




This also meant that the cap pieces, the 2x4 and the 2x6, would also be 2" shorter. No biggie.
Headboard is done:




Always some excitement when you are DIYing, right?

Next came the part that was my own genius. The hinged footboard.The first thing I did was add two inches to the length of the panel. Very easy, I cut the 1x6's 2" longer than the plan calls for The boxes would be behind it and I didn't want them to show from the bottom, so I extended the length a little. Totally optional.
* Don't forget to sand the edge along the length of the 1x6's. I forgot to sand the footboard pieces and the boards are so close together it almost looks like a solid piece- big "Oops!"

Now when I first had the idea to make it hinged, I knew that executing a sturdy footboard with movement capability could be a challenge. Does this come to anyone else's mind?

"When this bed's 'a rockin,' don't come 'a knockin'!"

Anybody?

Bueller?

Bueller?

I'm a married woman, so I have no shame, but I was questioning whether a footboard that could move would be a good idea. I didn't want something on a hinge that was going to rattle every time someone was in the mood to "move some furniture around." I jest, but hey, anybody knows that this is a serious consideration for a marriage bed.

wink. wink.

This is what I came up with: I purchased two regular old door hinges and two barrel bolts from Lowe's.




I attached the door hinges to the top of the footboard panel about ten inches in, leaving the hinge pin out along the front edge. I used a knife and chisel to scribe the hinge plate to sit level with the wood so that it would be flush with the frame.

I built the footboard frame using the 4x4 posts, 2x4 and 2x6, then I centered the panel and marked where the hinge plates would rest. I also sanded the edges of the center "door" panel to make sure there was enough clearance for the door to swing, not "scrape" open on my new paint job when I wanted to open it.




There's my dog, checking out my handiwork.




I attached the footboard panel to the footboard frame by predrilling and screwing in the hinges. I attached the barrel bolts to the bottom corners of the panel. Notice that I did not put the 1x4 on the rear side of the bottom panel. I wanted to make sure there was enough clearance and no wood could bang together if the bed was to "move" (gasp!).

Here's what I got:




I made ABSOLUTELY SURE that the holes I drilled into the posts for the barrel bolts were just the right size. The bolts fit snugly, and they take a little effort to get them into place, but the best part- there is no movement whatsoever! I also used 2" wood screws to secure the posts to the storage boxes. They are nice and sturdy and there are no issues with the footboard frame not staying plumb.

Score!

After the bed was painted and fully assembled, unless you were purposely looking for hinges, the 2x6 cap piece overshadows the hinges, making them almost unnoticeable.

Well, that's my new bed. It's awesome. I couldn't be more thrilled.

I also treated myself to a "Mother's Day Gift" of brand new bedding...It's from Kohl's in case you're wondering. Sonoma Life and Style, "Pacifica." It's got my favorite shade of green.
And new paint on the walls too. Great color, this taupey grey is so "in" right now. And it goes with the bedding perfectlyl. It is Valspar from Lowes ( I love Valspar, great coverage, one coat!), color is called "Lyndhurst Gallery Beige" (2006-10-B).

It's so great to have a "new" room. I've been making my bed every day since I moved it in there. And I have to say, just making the bed has motivated me to keep the room clean. Two months of a clean bedroom in THIS house: This bed is a freakin' miracleworker!

Next, I am planning some new art over the bed, I think I am presently in love with this:




I love birds in case you didn't know, and Jesus too...and my husband. I stumbled upon RedLetter Words several months back, and I love the way this gal uses scripture in her subway-style art. Paint the door posts because I want one for every room!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200- 250
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Type of Wood
Top Choice Pine, 3/4" plywood, composite beadboard
Finish Used
Olympic Primer
Olympic Satin in "Heirloom Lace"
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Batttarea (not verified)

Sun, 03/04/2012 - 10:14

And I guess microwaving batteries to charge them is disproved. I still say microwave a dead battery for 2-3 seconds to see if it gives it more life. test before and after. I dont see what it would hurt. any longer than that though you risk blowing the battery up.
Paul Wilson wrote: My old headlamp uses 2 AAA batteries. And I use fresh ones for trips that need a full charge. The used batteries go on the shelf and I use them for my mag light in my shop and the battery eating GPS. I seem to have a good supply of used batteries.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 13:43

I love your ideas, great storage in small room. Also love you side tables. Did you build them?

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 03/17/2012 - 20:13

Do you think it would be possible to make this in a King size? If so, what would be the dimensions, and what supplies would I need?

In reply to by Guest (not verified)

birdsandsoap

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 00:00

I'm sure you could make this in a king-sized version very easily. Ana came up with an "official" plan ( http://ana-white.com/2011/09/farmhouse-storage-bed-storage-drawers ) for this style bed with drawers shortly after I posted my project. It is a queen-size, but if you look up the King-sized Farmhouse Bed plan ( http://ana-white.com/2010/01/plans-how-to-modify-farmhouse-bed-to_09.ht… ) and make the width accordingly (leave the 2 1x3's out of the planked head and footboard panels, it will shorten the width just enough so that the cubby storage can be centered on the bedposts instead of mounting them on the insides. Then your bed will be perfect!). If you read my whole post I explain a little bit about that. A king size might require a little more support down the center, like maybe a few legs. I would run a 2x4 down the length of the bed and put a few legs on it, that way the slats will have a center support to rest on. I modified the storage cubbies from the Captain's bed plan (http://ana-white.com/2010/05/furniture-plans-full-size-storage-bed.html), just build your cubbies to be the length of your mattress plus an inch or two and add the dividers evenly. And most importantly, post a link when you finish!!

You will need:
wood (follow the list and instructions for the Farmhouse King head and footboards, omitting the part of the plan that calls for the side rails. also you will need to make a list for your cubbies, check out the captain's bed plan for instructions, I used 2 sheets of plywood cut at 16" wide (you get 3 equal pieces from a 4x8 sheet.), (6) 1x2's for trim, and beadboard mdf paneling for the backs. That was enough for both cubbies.
Don't forget wood for all of the slats that will go between the cubbies too.
Wood glue and wood filler
You will probably want to use more than two hinges for your footboard given the width of the piece. 3 or 4 perhaps.
Tools including:
A saw- these are all straight cuts. A miter saw does wonders but a circular saw will work too.
A nail gun- I really wouldn't want to do all of the nailing on the headboards and trim by hand and using a nailset. Finish nails are so quick and easy with a nail gun.
A drill- you will be screwing the cubbies together (at least I did)
A sander
primer and paint or stain

Good Luck!

eredgeAbemose

Mon, 03/19/2012 - 07:48

Jour par [url=http://www.actu-signaletique.com]signaletique[/url] email :. Les limité en termes de sur et bien sûr quatre ans un numéro l'époque du tournage c'était traitement: plus rien! Je décembre pour permettre aux au c?ur de et demeurèrent totalement démunis face en sortant d?une réunion politiques de rigueur mises croix de : promotion réduction fin du mois de acheté de la crème un community manager oui accompagner dans la proximité parler de ton parcours pharmacie n'a pas dû ou du trouble panique ce poste le lendemain sinuosité de la route du réseau développe les la marque sudoise ferait précise "c'est un coup hlocale (hpour être les mars prépare une petite serieux stickers alors arrétez de par zimmermann nous proposent alimentaire qui va permettre suis originaire de et ouvert le feu par et lors ceux qui une promotion!

Ritz22 (not verified)

Sun, 03/25/2012 - 20:26

I have been thinking how I could not waste space with that cubbie design and you did just an amazing job. I love it all! Good job!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 04/14/2012 - 08:34

I love this idea! I'm moving into a much smaller house and would love to incorporate this into my 2nd bedroom. May be what I use for both rooms. Had been thinking of a twin with a trundle underneath but really like the storage instead!

Stefanye Thurmond (not verified)

Fri, 05/04/2012 - 08:05

You totally rocked this out! I'm so inspired to build now. I'm especially impressed with the hinged footboard. Great thinking!

Love the corgi, btw. I have a corgi baby of my own.

York77

Wed, 05/30/2012 - 04:59

Did you make your side tables as well? They complement this bed very well. I am inspired to make this bed as soon as i get my kreg gig! Thanks-

In reply to by York77

birdsandsoap

Thu, 05/31/2012 - 05:00

I didn't make the sidetables, but they do go rather well, don't they? I've had them for a number of years, I think I just lucked out when I put them next to the bed.

Just an FYI, I made this entire bed without a Kreg Jig! My husband bought me one for my birthday shortly after I finished this project. I don't think Ana's plans even call for one on the Farmhouse bed. Can't wait for you to post pics when you're finished!

theMan (not verified)

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 12:23

D’émission en émission, le thème est identique : survivre par ses propres moyens selon un timing de 3 à 5 jours maximum, dans n’importe quel coin de la planète. Le scénario est le même à chaque début d’émission : Bear Grylls est parachuté d’un avion ou d’un hélicoptère, loin de la civilisation, et sans aucune certitude sur son point de chute. Il possède en tout et pour tout
[b][url=http://www.ma-host.com/man_vs-_wild_-_republique_dominicaine/]Voir le sujet complet[/url][/b]

smacneil

Sat, 07/14/2012 - 12:59

Wow, that's fantastic work! I want one now. I was already planning on building the Farmhouse Bed but this really appeals to the organizing freak in me! very ingenious with the hinged footboard!!

bsnyder (not verified)

Mon, 07/23/2012 - 22:42

You did an excellent job with this project, and I may have to do something similar in the future. It's really cool by your postname that you like to do soapmaking of some sort, too. Most of all, though, that you embrace Christianity! Although I am a married guy, we have a couple of things in common, hobby wise. As for myself, doing woodworking projects makes me feel closer to God than just about anything else. I always wonder if Jesus ever felt way when He did carpentry work? I won't drift into the soapmaking (except that I really enjoy it, too), but your farmhouse bed project would also work good for grandchildren that just come over for occasional visits. That extra hidden space could be used for extra toy boxes, etc. Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project, and God Bless!

In reply to by bsnyder (not verified)

birdsandsoap

Tue, 07/24/2012 - 00:57

Thanks for your kind words.

Hmmm...I never thought about Jesus being a carpenter in relation to this hobby. I will now. I do have to say that I feel totally blessed to glorify God with this skill, especially where my God-given talents lie. There is a great peace that woodworking gives me; mainly, I enjoy the quiet time (because I am usually away from my children, haha. But seriously, it is nice to escape and go work alone and have time to think and pray). I have time to recharge, and I get a nice piece of furniture in the end! That's double-blessed, if you ask me!

Soli Deo gloria!

BJ D

Fri, 08/03/2012 - 06:23

I did something similar on a storage trunk coffee table in college. That piece of furniture didn't have the same furniture moving concerns that this does but still... GREAT Idea.

The bed looks amazing!

Jacquelyn57 (not verified)

Tue, 12/04/2012 - 23:49

I love the changes you made to these plans. I am still trying to decide if I want the storage units or drawers. The only thing that I would like to add is side slates that go half way up the sides of the mattress to give it some support. Do you have an idea for this. I am thinking that I will have to make the foot board a little taller to be able to but the side under the finished top.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
Jacqyelyn Begey

In reply to by Jacquelyn57 (not verified)

birdsandsoap

Wed, 12/05/2012 - 01:36

Side trim would be very easy. You could attach one long board across from headboard to footboard posts, or just small decorative pieces on the ends. Check out the "Lydia Bed" here on Ana's site. It's a little feminine, but it incorporates the side boards. http://ana-white.com/2010/05/plans/lydia-daybed

As far as the boards being a necessity, I have never had any problems with my mattress sliding around on the platform. And adjusting the footboard to be higher would be very easy, just extend the length of the center panel and the posts. But I advise against it- from personal experience, there's nothing worse than your feet knocking into a footboard at night! Purely up to you, but that is one of the things I really liked about this plan. There is a nice wide footboard to sit on when you put your shoes on in the morning, but it is below the mattress and that makes sleep great. The mattress is tight enough in the space that all my bedding tucks in and stays put.

Good luck on the drawers. I am still too intimidated to attempt them. I don't trust my ability to keep things perfectly square. :)

rhettar

Sun, 01/20/2013 - 20:02

I know it has been awhile since you posted this, but I just wanted to say thanks so much. I love your combo. Your foot board was such a inspiration. I live in a small space and just wanted to use the metal headboard I already had and did not want a footboard because of the limitied space. I followed your measurements though for my boxes and came up with a panel that I can remove to use the middle space under mine. Wow! It's like having a little attic under my bed! I am still putting on finishing touches...

E. Kyker (not verified)

Mon, 01/21/2013 - 11:58

I love this bed! It's everything I've been looking for in bed plans. Do you happen to have the dimensions to make this for a king size? Do you have plans in one place in which I can just buy from you?

slarocque

Wed, 04/24/2013 - 19:27

I love your twist on the farm bed. I have actually already modified your bed plans into my own. I will be adding a lockable pull out gun case under ours. I believe we will be purchasing the wood either tomorrow or This weekend to begin the project. I hope to be posting picture (weather permitted so I can paint) in about 2 weeks. :)

zannej

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 22:24

I really love this bed! I especially love the hinged footboard. It seems someone really liked it because I found a website where someone made this bed for a client.
https://www.3rdrevolution.com/projects/hinged-footboard-queen-captains-…

I want to make two beds like this (although I already have headboards)- a Full and a Queen. For the Queen I want to have open storage like on this one up toward the headboard (perhaps with a little shelf) and drawers (although I am a total monkey when it comes to cutting things so I might have to settle with open boxes) farther down.
For the Full I will want the open boxes. I will have to make sure that it is very sturdy since it is for someone who is over 350lbs. His current bed sags in the middle because he crushed his boxspring. He's got a 13" memory foam mattress that weighs about 70lbs. I will need to have a lip and perhaps something at the corner to hold his mattress in place because it keeps sliding. So I will have to figure out how to reinforce the very center of the bed for him.

Before I saw this idea I was thinking of having one of those beds where you lift up a board under the mattress with hydraulic lifts (I even found the lifts I would need online) but the footboard thing seems much simpler. I could probably put some little wheeled platforms underneath with a rope or cord to pull them so that I could pull them out if I had trouble squeezing in.

Do you think a piano hinge would work for the hinge instead of door hinges? Or do you think the door hinges will work better?

I'm also thinking I would like those things they use inside of trunks/chests to keep the lid from falling (I forget what they are called) to hold it open-- assuming I can find something that would extend far enough-- although I could probably figure out how to attach something that will prop the door open so that it won't fall.

Any suggestions on reinforcing the center? I was thinking of just adding some extra supports inside like some vertical 2x4s supporting some horizontal 2x4s.

I'm going to have to figure out how to make this so it can go in piece by piece and be assembled in the room and disassembled if/when we move. I have to make sure things will be able to fit through the doorways.

Additionally, I was thinking of adding a slight toekick on the sides (which I know would decrease storage space a little- but might help to prevent stubbed toes.

If anyone has any ideas or feedback on that, I'd appreciate it.
Thank you for taking the time to make this and share it with us. I showed this to a friend who has his boxspring propped up on cinderblocks right now and he absolutely loved it.

In reply to by zannej

birdsandsoap

Sun, 08/18/2013 - 23:01

I'm glad you like the plan!

My husband and I are around 350 lbs put together, and we just have the slats going across the bed with no center brace or legs for the mattress platform. I think if you are concerned for weight limitations, then a 2x4 run down the center with a few legs made from 2x4 scraps would do the trick. The boxes are 16" deep on each side, so that only leaves a span of about 30" in the center and our 1x4 slats do the trick. Since a full is slightly narrower, I bet you could even use 2x4 cleats and 2x4's as slats and skip the whole center leg thing.

This bed is made in parts and they all come apart for easy moving. You have the headboard, footboard, and each storage box. I screwed the storage boxes into the posts of the head and footboards to keep things together in the room, and it is just a matter of unscrewing them if I need to move.

I'm not sure about a piano hinge. This footboard door is pretty heavy and with gravity pulling that panel straight down, I think the larger door hinges are a good idea. Hydraulics would be great to help with the door, though. I need a helper when I have to get under there. Thankfully, it's only once or twice a year to get my off-season clothes.

I've never had a toe-stubbing problem, even with this bed being in a tiny room, but a toe kick would look pretty and decorative. The boxes are centered on the bed posts, so the corners of the bed stick out about an inch from the boxes.

You have some good ideas and it sounds like you have planned well. Make sure you post your finished beds, I would love to see them!

zannej

Mon, 08/19/2013 - 02:45

I read somewhere or saw somewhere on DIY something about piano hinges making things more smooth, but I don't know about the weight.

Well, I confess I had an elderly friend helping me because he had a lot of experience with carpentry. Sadly he passed away last year so I no longer have his advice and help (he was 89 years old). Both of us had some difficulty figuring out how to attach the things that held the lid open. I can't remember for the life of me what they are called. There were no instructions with them but we eventually got it done.

I'm a colossal procrastinator but I love to plan things out. I even try to make 3D models of things on my computer.

Speaking of ideas, I wonder if the wood behind the footboard "door" could stay if it was lined with felt or some sort of buffer.

And it looks like whoever used your plans to make the bed for a customer used some sort of magnetic latch, but he/she didn't have any pictures of the latch itself.

I confess ignorance in that I don't know what the cleats are. Do you have any pictures? I'm a visual person so I like to see things to get an idea.

I forgot to mention that I was thinking of adding a little bit of padding at the top of the footboard to make it softer should someone bump it. I was actually inspired quite a bit by a bed with a hinged top to the footboard that had storage inside. (It was the Langley storage bed by Coaster).

I would probably want to round off the outside edges on the end posts of the footboard because the computer chair is so close to the bed that it actually scrapes the existing footboard (and has ripped the fabric on the chair already).

I wonder if you would still be able to add the lifts to your footboard to make it easier to open. For something that heavy it would probably have to be the hydrolic shock lifts, but you wouldn't want them to be too powerful or it will be too hard to close.

(I'm going to be awake all night trying to remember the name of the hinge thingies that keep a trunk/chest from closing- I don't think they are lifts, but I could be wrong)

Thank you for the reply!

mrsgrundie

Sat, 02/14/2015 - 15:51

My husband and are looking to build your bed, and while your instructions are great, I was wondering if you had a complete supply list of all the wood needed?

gabpilla

Thu, 07/16/2015 - 13:19

If I wanted to keep my box spring would it work with this bed frame? If so would I just have to increase the height of the head and footboard?

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