Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Sat, 07/20/2019 - 11:24
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free step by step woodworking plans to make an industrial style Farmhouse Table. Features metal stretcher and lots of details to make your table interesting and unique. 

We also have matching bench plans available here.

modern farmhouse table pottery barn benchwright knock off

Reader submitted photo by SGILLY

We've had quite a few requests for plans inspired by Reclaimed Wood Benchwright Farmhouse Table from Pottery Barn - I get it, not everyone has thousands to spend on a dining table.  But if you are willing to put in the work (and it's fun work!) you can build a solid wood dining table for a fraction of the cost to buy.
The base is sized for a five foot long iron pipe, available at most home improvement stores in the plumbing aisles.  There's tons of iron fitting that you could use to "dress" the table up with.

Similar Plan Option

We also have this table in a very similar look, but built using 4x4 legs. 
4x4 leg benchwright table
Please take a look at that plan as well here.
Dimensions
dimensions diagram for modern farmhouse table
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length

2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - Black Iron Pipe 60" long, both ends threaded Bolts/Caps and Washers for decorative touches

4 - 6" Black Bolts with washer and Nuts (1/4" would work fine)

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Legs

  • 4 - 1x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2" (End Aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 31" (Stretcher)
  • 8 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (One end cut at 10 degree angle, longest point measurement)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 16 1/8 (cut to fit - spacer)

Table

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 45 1/4" (Side Aprons - short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 20" (Supports)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 67" (Sides)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30" (Ends)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 33"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 33"
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 67 1/8" (cut to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

We'll start by making the legs. The most important part of the legs is getting your cuts right. Some of the cuts are bevels and some are angles, so pay attention in the diagrams. All angles will be ten degrees off square. Remember, you will need to assemble two sets of legs, and the legs are mirrors of each other. You can use finish nails and glue. Start by attaching the 1x4 to the top 1x2 as shown above.

Step 2

Now attach the 2x4 to the legs as shown above. Use glue and 2" finish nails - don't worry, we'll be further suporting this leg shortly.

Step 3

Now sandwich in the apron and stretcher as shown above. Stretcher will overhang 1/2" on each outside end.

Step 4

And now simply fill in the blanks.

Step 5

Step 6

And attach the supports - these will give you something to nail your top boards on too.

Step 7

I'd love to see these bolted on with a iron bolt for a little extra touch. Attach with 7 1/2" overhangs on ends.

Step 8

Now the end supports. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 9

Bolt the breadboard end on as shown above. Use 6" bolts with washers as done here.

Step 10

Nail down the 1x4 to the ends as shown here.

Step 11

And finally top with the 1x6s. Note, you can use other boards for the top, for example reclaimed wood boards for a more rustic look.

Step 12

Drill holes in the stretchers and add iron pipe. Use fittings to secure pipe in place.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Stephanie (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 06:33

we want to get the look of this table and we don't want a shiny lacquer look. we bought a light pecan stain that we think will look great but what do we do about sealing so that it is resistant to red wine stains? etc? is there a super matte sealant we can get?

claydowling

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 16:10

Stephanie,

You can buy both water based and oil based polyurethanes with a matte or flat finish. You just need to remember to stir it before you use it, because the bits that make it matte settle to the bottom.

ajmccallister

Mon, 05/28/2012 - 19:43

I am hoping to tackle this table project for my in-laws lake cabin but they are concerned about having enough seating, but they also have limited space. Any idea how to add the leaves on the end of the table to this plan? I am assuming a metal rod or maybe 2'x2's. Any help would be appreciated!

ajmccallister

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:59

That makes sense. Few clarifying questions: If you just kept pulling the end of the table it would pull out, right? How did you attach it to the end of the table and how long were the 2x2s? Any pictures you can show of your table? I was thinking I might drill into the end-piece and use a narrow pipe. Thanks a bunch!

Dee Kuzman (not verified)

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 14:58

I'm committed to building this table and have gone to Lowes and Home Depot in Orlando Florida to get all wood pieces in Red Oak or Pine but they do not carry any of 2 inch pieces. One inch is fine. I've had both stores check with their suppliers and also called all of the local wood mills in Orlando but no luck. Any ideas where I could find those 2 inch pieces in Red Oak or Pine?

In reply to by Dee Kuzman (not verified)

claydowling

Thu, 06/07/2012 - 20:04

You should be able to pick up 2x southern yellow pine in Florida quite easily. There is something called red oak for sale in Florida in those dimensions, if you go to a hardwood dealer (ask for 8/4 oak). It's different than the red oak that we have up here, but it's probably still nice to work with. But go for the pine.

Be aware that the actual thickness of 2x pine is likely to be 1 1/2" or 1 3/4". That was figured into the design.

dee kuzman (not verified)

Fri, 06/08/2012 - 22:04

Thank you. I'll reach out to hardwood dealers for 8/4 oak but now at least I have a fallback on pine.

wesleyjack

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 16:32

I don't have any pictures unfortunately. It was a quick build and then given away right when it was finished. The supports for the leaf stick into the table almost 3 feet and if you pull on it it will start to slide out. I could have put some fort of latch on the bottom but the friend I was making it for was not even sure they would ever use the leaves just wanted them in case so I wasn't about to put to much extra time into them as they were only paying for supplies.